What should I do first?

Which first

  • Sniper Tuning

    Votes: 10 55.6%
  • 3.73's with trac-loc

    Votes: 8 44.4%
  • Bigger MAF

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    18
What about the other tuners. I have sniper. Does anyone have reason to say the others are better. One thing I noticed is that nobody dyno tunes sniper around me in Maryland. Its SCT
 
I don't really know if better is the way to describe it...

I personally am going with SCT, and have chosen to buy a used Xcal2, and will be getting the pro racer software...
 
I like sniper for the fact that you can tune it over and over again. You don't have to keep paying to have another tune made. Thats why I'm gonna go with sniper. I doubt that I'll ever get serious enough to need a dyno tune so this seems like the best path to me.
 
maf and tune !!!..

made a huge difference in mine..

get the gears later and adjust the tune accordingly

You did them both at the same time right?

So you don't know what each piece does seperatly. I would be intrested to see if Geno has some numbers that can prove if the MAF auctually does something of if its just the tune. That would settle the arguement of if it auctually works
 
I like sniper for the fact that you can tune it over and over again. You don't have to keep paying to have another tune made. Thats why I'm gonna go with sniper. I doubt that I'll ever get serious enough to need a dyno tune so this seems like the best path to me.

You can do the exact same thing with SCT and an xcal2 and a pro racer package....
 
Do a little research and I bet you would want to go with SCT.... but its your car...

As long as your tuning the car your on the right track!
 
I know what your saying. But for the same token It's not like my car is ever gonna be a 500hp car that needs a great tune. I know SCT has more things you can adjust but I don't feel its necessary for my application. For what I need Sniper should be enough.
 
No option to change the gears.


in the SCT stuff there are a couple of places to correct for gears and tires.

There is the NV scalar where you specify the N (engine speed) and V (vehicle speed) and there is a "revs per mile" scalar to adjust for various tire sizes.

the mark 8 doesnt have the "revs per mile" scalar like the later mustangs do.

but the NV scalar takes car of that.. after all N/V is what it is.
 
I'm not trying to turn this into a sniper vs sct post

but I spent alot of time checking out ALL my options before I got into the sct stuff.

The sniper stuff might be ok for starters, but you are going to find that you'll quickly out grow the level of access it gives you, even IF you dont have a 500HP car with aftermarket cams.
Sniper has an upgraded level of access that also falls short of giving you complete access, and again.. you'll probably outgrow it.

who knows, you might not.. but in my case I could plainly see I was going to quickly outgrow the level off access in the entry level Sniper program thus requiring an upgrade for more money.

SCT PRP is 320ish dollars.. and you can pick up an Xcal on ebay for FAR less than 400.00 {that is IF price is what is your determining factor}

I paid 100.00 for my Xcal on ebay, +320 for PRP

With that said.. when I first opened SCT PRP I was disapointed that there wasn't those "little cutesy" pull down menus with options to select.
Like select 373 gears
then select 90MM Maf
and base on those selections the tune was created.

If you need "that kind" of spoonfeeding for your tuning solution then by all means go for the sniper software.. because SCT doesnt do that stuff.

like I said, initially I was "hoping" for those little pull down menus, but now I am glad they weren't in the software

because it forced me to "LEARN" about what is going on in the PCM and what to change to make what I wanted to occurr happen.

If you are a guy that goes to sears to replace a broken drill, get Sniper.

If your are a guy that takes the drill APART to try and fix it before taking it back to sears, then get the SCT stuff.
 
XLRVIII I can see what you mean with the differences in the software. By no way was I stating that sniper was better, just what I have. By lookin at your car it seams to be almost the same set-up as mine. However mines a gen 2 the slower of the two. With only the bolt ons and tune I've run 14.19 @ 97 MPH What duya think. Looks like they work almost the same.:)
 
I don't know what all these guys said, but, I wouldn't go with a tune unless it was a dyno tune. And definately SCT -Only.

And since you get the best tune after mods.. I have to disagree with the first few guys voting for a tune first, assuming you're gettting a dyno tune.

If you don't have that option, then I don't know. I'd do what it takes to get a dyno tune no matter my location. G/l
 
I remember reading a lot of people saying to get an Xcal with a tune from Torrie. Is this still the way to go for someone who doesnt do their own tuning?
 
I don't know what all these guys said, but, I wouldn't go with a tune unless it was a dyno tune. And definately SCT -Only.

And since you get the best tune after mods.. I have to disagree with the first few guys voting for a tune first, assuming you're gettting a dyno tune.

If you don't have that option, then I don't know. I'd do what it takes to get a dyno tune no matter my location. G/l

I would definetly get a tune first... you have to take the grandpa out of the car before any other mods can be effective...
 
I remember reading a lot of people saying to get an Xcal with a tune from Torrie. Is this still the way to go for someone who doesnt do their own tuning?

I would get a dyno tune done at a shop in persona before I would ever get any mail order tune....
 
my 95 got stolen back in april, I now have an uber slow second gen that struggles to make a 14.99 pass.

it's stone stock other than my tune.

Sorry to hear about the theft. My car was there many high 14 and lowmid 15 second passes.
 
I would get a dyno tune done at a shop in persona before I would ever get any mail order tune....

I don't have the time or care enough t tinker with tuning it myself and there isn't a shop anywhere near me that I would trust tuning it. I got a mail order tune and am happy with it. I probably did leave a few more horsepower on the table but it wasn't worth it for me.
 
Back on track I would:
(for the best thrill)
1.gears
2.free up inhale and exhale
3.tune

I say tune last because that way you throw it on the dyno once and only pay a tunning fee once. after you complete all of your wanted mods.

I did not take this route on mine, but then again Im not looking for a quick or fast car just a hair more spirited drive.
 
The aftermarket maf's have no flow restriction in them. the stock maf has a bar blocking air flow that holds the actual sensor element itself. so they flow much better and if you are changing injectors its easy to calibrate the aftermarket ones.
 
The aftermarket maf's have no flow restriction in them. the stock maf has a bar blocking air flow that holds the actual sensor element itself. so they flow much better and if you are changing injectors its easy to calibrate the aftermarket ones.

An aftermarket one will flow more air, if the car needed to....

Why would you change the injectors?
 
The aftermarket maf's have no flow restriction in them. the stock maf has a bar blocking air flow that holds the actual sensor element itself. so they flow much better and if you are changing injectors its easy to calibrate the aftermarket ones.

The stock mark 8 maf is by a large margin perfectly fine for a stock or N/A modded Mark 8.

you have to consider that ford used the same MAF on the 95 cobra and the 94-95 lightning pickup.

IF the mark 8 maf will support a 6000RPM 351 then it will surely support a 6000 RPM 281 with ALOT of headroom left over.

putting a larger maf on a NA mark 8 is a worthless mod.

when you put a larger maf on a car that doesnt fully utilize the additional resolution provided by the larger maf, then you are "decreasing" the control the PCM has over the engine.

It's like wearing an extra large condom when you dont actually NEED an extra large condom.. does it make you better in bed?
NOPE it just means your not "using all the condom".

who cares how much condom you have "rolled up" at the base, it doesnt help, nor does it make you "better"... in fact it makes things look wrong and smaller. ( which is exactly what happens when you put a larger maf on, it looks wrong, and the reported airflow to the PCM is SMALLER)

Feel free to keep "rolling" down the extra condom that you dont need, so long as it makes you FEEL bigger. which is exactly what a "larger maf" does..
It FEELS bigger...that is all.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top