what class amp ?

[1LoudLS]

Things will still rattle...

the only rattle my car has is from an exhaust shield (which will be fixed real soon) and from the rear view mirror its self (which can actually be head pretty clearly from the outside) there is no rattles coming from the body at all, its not about how much sound deadner you use, its about understanding the rattle and knowing where to put the sound deadner. and if my car doesn't rattle with two 15" L7's and a 1500w RMS amp, then nobody's should.

 

[1LoudLS]

JL, JL, JL. I love my JL amp can you tell!!!! I had Rockford, and kicker amps also which hit hard, but my JL has been more reliable and never lets me down.

there amps are some of the best (they are however one of the most expensive amps i have ever seen) but the one that i linked to is one of the watered down versions, it still should be very good quality, but it not the normal JL balls to the wall type of stuff

 

[1LoudLS]

it is used to volume match the speaker that you are amplifying to the rest of the system. when adjusting the gain you want to turn the system up to a moderate level and turn the gain up till it just about matches the rest of the system with out getting distortion.

not quite, but closer than most, it has nothing to do with "volume matching" the entire and only point of a gain knob is to match the input level of the amp to the output voltage of the source

volume matching should be done with level adjustments in the headunit

The nice thing about this amp is that it is 1ohm stable

NO ITS NOT, PDX's are 2ohm stable
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9113_Alpine+PDX-1.600.html

with SWR-T12 12" Thin Subwoofer or the JLAudio TW5 thin sub woofer.

i would never recommend a thin sub to somebody that has the room for a full sub, those are designed for where space it too tight for a real sub (like under a trunk seat) the point of a thinner sub is to fit where a regular sub cant, you really not going to be able to save a whole lot of air space. not to mention that the thin type R is 500 fukcing dollars, which you can buy two regular 12"s for, if he was looking to save space, he wouldn't be looking at two subs to begin with.

be sure to get a capacitor. all that bass can drain the battery and dim your lights.

well for starters, if the battery is getting "drained" then you are not creating* enough power and adding a cap will only take more power away from the battery, it may mask the symptoms but its resulting in a even more drained battery, the point of a cap is to even out the uneven use of power that a amp uses, since amps dont use a steady amount of current, a cap will store a small amount a power as a reserve for when the amp needs more than what is readily available.

THE ONLY WAY TO HAVE ENOUGH POWER FOR A SYSTEM IS TO CREATE ENOUGH POWER. and since batteries and caps only store power, the alt is the only device that creates* power



CREATE* energy is actually not created, but it is converted

 

[pektel]

And THAT... is how you do that.

 

[BlackLS06]

Yeah i wouldint run a cap at all.
Yeah caps can look pretty cool and can display your volts on the fly, but a high output alt is much better. I think the stock alt on gen 2 is 140 which is more than other cars.

That with a large cca deep cycle battery and you should be set. You can also do the big 3 upgrade, which is replacing or adding more wires to the alt and battery so you can provide more power to the amp.

 

[OBI]

http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26
Best bang for your buck. And will easy do more than rated. Don't be alarmed if you don't know the name. They are badass. Made my the same guys that make Digital Designs.