What amp for voice

Yessir. For my one sub. I need to get another one.

I have my Directed SX12D4 wired at 2 ohms, so this amp is rated to push 800W to it continuous. The sub is rated at 600rms/1200 peak.

Hopefully I can find another of the same sub for cheap. Then I can wire them to 1 ohm, and get 600W to each.
 
pektel said:
Yessir. For my one sub. I need to get another one.

I have my Directed SX12D4 wired at 2 ohms, so this amp is rated to push 800W to it continuous. The sub is rated at 600rms/1200 peak.

Hopefully I can find another of the same sub for cheap. Then I can wire them to 1 ohm, and get 600W to each.
Click to expand...

thats great, 600 watts a speaker, that sh!ts gonna pound :eek:
 
yeah, I should probably invest in some dynamat/fatmat eh?
 
Lincoln Jealous said:
walmart/autozone hahaha crossfire is a very good amp and it overheated after a 3 hour drive with my music smacking, i had it professionally installed so i didnt get all the paperwork, but it was rated at 700 watts but really put out closer to 1000
Click to expand...

Well I have "smacked" my music for about 4 ½ hours and the only thing that I messed up was a woofer because at the time I had bottom of the line good equipment. Crossfire is not even in the good equipment category. Just because it was professionally installed doesn't mean it's not crap. Shops install junk all the time. It all depends on how much you want to spend. I feel if you have $700 or less in your headunit, amp, and woofer(new price not second hand)then it's prolly not that going to sound too great.

Great score pete and for only $150 it's a steal. Now you need to get a remote gain bass knob. I have mine mounted on the side of the console out of the way.
 
pektel said:
yeah, I should probably invest in some dynamat/fatmat eh?
Click to expand...

yea you will probably have some rattle with that if yo dont already, i found most of the rattle comes from the license plate, its kinda gay that the car only has two bolts to hold it in. i went to auto zone and got a license plate mounting kit (which was just a bracket with two holes for plate screws and mounting holes) i just screwed it into the plate surround's back at the bottom of the plate with short stainless screws and presto, four holes to hold the plate, and 70% less rattle.

SlickLS said:
I feel if you have $700 or less in your headunit, amp, and woofer(new price not second hand)then it's prolly not that going to sound too great.
Click to expand...
truth. thats about what i spent on just an amp OR the headunit

SlickLS said:
Now you need to get a remote gain bass knob. I have mine mounted on the side of the console out of the way.
Click to expand...
i took out the front cig lighter plug next to the power port above the ash tray to mount mine(who the hell needs 3 power ports any way), it fit perfect and doesn't look out of place at all. (this probably wouldn't work for the 1st gens since some years only have one total, well at least mine did, i have seen some with a second one on the back of the center console )
 
SlickLS said:
Well I have "smacked" my music for about 4 ½ hours and the only thing that I messed up was a woofer because at the time I had bottom of the line good equipment. Crossfire is not even in the good equipment category. Just because it was professionally installed doesn't mean it's not crap. Shops install junk all the time. It all depends on how much you want to spend. I feel if you have $700 or less in your headunit, amp, and woofer(new price not second hand)then it's prolly not that going to sound too great.

Great score pete and for only $150 it's a steal. Now you need to get a remote gain bass knob. I have mine mounted on the side of the console out of the way.
Click to expand...

it was probally the factory battery then, the only thing i didnt upgrade

evs cost $150
150 x 4 = $600
headunit =$200
crossfire amp= $500
compacitor = $150
tweeters (2) =$100
small amp for tweeters= $125
back dash cut out and board cut for speakers and install $200


just under $2000, if you have ever heard brand new ev's then you would know what im talking about, 4 tens in a car is crazy loud, you can hear loud and clear with no distortion for about a mile away:eek:
 
Lincoln Jealous said:
it was probally the factory battery then, the only thing i didnt upgrade

evs cost $150
150 x 4 = $600
headunit =$200
crossfire amp= $500
compacitor = $150
tweeters (2) =$100
small amp for tweeters= $125
back dash cut out and board cut for speakers and install $200


just under $2000, if you have ever heard brand new ev's then you would know what im talking about, 4 tens in a car is crazy loud, you can hear loud and clear with no distortion for about a mile away:eek:
Click to expand...


thats exactly it....ev wud b loud with no musical quality whatsoever. the sound dispersion isnt meant for the inside of a car. the soundstage should b directed from the front to the back, not from the back to the front. n if you really wanted to use some drivers to custom make some components, there are tons of brands that crap all over those evs. peerless, eminence, dynaudio just to name a few. let me guess, the tweeters you have are some pyle pro bullet tweeters and you rate how high quality they are by how harsh they are on ur ears right? ur set up sounds like a joke. also, the gain knob on the amps arent meant to be used as a volume knob. the gain is supposed to be set so that it is at the highest level right before it starts to distort or if you want to do it right you use a multimeter and measure when the voltage stops increasing as it is supposed to match the voltage output of ur headunit. and and unless you have upgraded that alternator and the charging leads, that cap doesnt do anything but light up your trunk and makes your install guys poket fatter...amateur....
 
I was wondering about upgrading my alt when I get that new amp... if I would need to or not. Probably, if I'm running more than 1000w rms right?
 
def....your alt is only rated at about 110 amps or less not sure... but all that draw and it will eventually fail since its way more amp draw then its manafactured for. a 200 amp or better alt wud b best for u. there are amp calculators to determine which one you need. distortion is one of the main reasons people blow amps and subs and speakers all the time and the cause of that is not enough power goin to the amp to power the speakers..
 
Thanks, dude. Now I just gotta come up with the scrape for it. Gotta get a new set of rear tires. 19" tires ain't cheap! Cheapest ones I found in 245/40 were about 200 each.
 
You know, I like to keep the tire business local. Gotta support small business when I can. They are within 10 bucks of tirerack, and their price includes mounting and balancing. They did not have those closeout deals though. The ones they were trying to talk me into were the Firehawk GT.
 
Lincoln Jealous said:
evs cost $150
headunit =$200
crossfire amp= $500
Click to expand...

Exactly...I was close on price and that price on that amp is exaggerated or a ripoff. It's cool if you like it because you are the one who has to listen to it. If it doesn't sound good by itself then why put four of them in your car?
 
im not hatin jealous....ev's are electro voice drivers...from experience with most car audio shops, they buy generic woofers and stamp ev's logo on them and resell them to idiots like jealous for 10 times the amount they paid. i know, im friends with several car audio shops who buy the generic woofers off of me. i laugh when i see the same woofers i sold to the shop stamped with all different types of logo's. i in return get a drastic discount for my audio set ups, hid installs, tints and other things. now in certain cases the ev's are good like when dj's use them in cabinets paired with midrange drivers and tweeters at concerts and clubs and what not. when people set them up in arrays in cars its becuz they plan on using them to point outside for tailgating parties or sound competition where the sound will be directed outside of the vehicle, not inside. If set up in a car, with the wrong crossover points, time alignment issues, incorrect amp levels and impedance load, and you are just going to have sheer loudness with no acceptable musical quality whatsoever. try showing up a sql competition with ur setup and see how hard they will laugh at you. i guaruntee you you wont even qualify to compete with that joke of a set up. the fact that you know none of this, makes me realize you pretty much have no clue about car audio.
 
djknowledge said:
im not hatin jealous....ev's are electro voice drivers...from experience with most car audio shops, they buy generic woofers and stamp ev's logo on them and resell them to idiots like jealous for 10 times the amount they paid. i know, im friends with several car audio shops who buy the generic woofers off of me. i laugh when i see the same woofers i sold to the shop stamped with all different types of logo's. i in return get a drastic discount for my audio set ups, hid installs, tints and other things. now in certain cases the ev's are good like when dj's use them in cabinets paired with midrange drivers and tweeters at concerts and clubs and what not. when people set them up in arrays in cars its becuz they plan on using them to point outside for tailgating parties or sound competition where the sound will be directed outside of the vehicle, not inside. If set up in a car, with the wrong crossover points, time alignment issues, incorrect amp levels and impedance load, and you are just going to have sheer loudness with no acceptable musical quality whatsoever. try showing up a sql competition with ur setup and see how hard they will laugh at you. i guaruntee you you wont even qualify to compete with that joke of a set up. the fact that you know none of this, makes me realize you pretty much have no clue about car audio.
Click to expand...

hahaha, thanks i have really nothing more to say then i bought my evs from people that fu<k with evs on the regular, and they were golds, not the whites everyone has, i dont care what your opinion about evs or the setup is, but if you were smart you would admit they are good speakers, and with the right power you can get mids and highs perfectly to come out, not to mention the distance the sound travels and never looses distortion, evs are concert speakers, if you went to a concert you would see alot of evs, now imagine them in your car, i love the setup, dont be mad cause i think of car audio more then just a subwoofer and tweeters ftmfw i like to be heard for miles
 
If set up in a car, with the wrong crossover points, time alignment issues, incorrect amp levels and impedance load, and you are just going to have sheer loudness with no acceptable musical quality whatsoever.



lmao thats nice to know...thanks

do you have evs? no then stfu
 
thats exactly it...you are just admitting more that you know nothing about car audio. i never sed they suck. but they r not meant for a car. so you r trying to tell me that you can accurately reproduce highs, which are pretty much frequencies starting above 1.5khz with a 10 inch midrange woofer? the woofer might b able to produce some of it but you are def not going to reproduce it accurately at all. thats y they have tweeters? its like one of the basics of car audio. and i think everyone thinks more of car audio then just subwoofers and tweeters, being that you left out 1/3 of the sound spectrum, which would b a midrange woofer...and by the way you unless you have the original ev boxes that they ship from, then you got some eminence woofers with gold stickers on em just like everyone else...im not saying you cant get ur hands on a pair, but i highly doubt that you even know the difference. just throw 14 dj speakers in your trunk it will sound good according to ur standards becuz its loud....sounds about right doesnt it? f*ck outta here just stay shut cuz you seriously dont know about sh*t....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 447 (members: 0, guests: 447)
Back
Top