I recently replaced the degas bottle about a month now and since yesterday I've been having some weird issues. I know these might not be related though. Yesterday at idle (800-900rpm) it just dropped down to 100rpm with a rough feeling as if it was about to stall out. It immediately shot up to about 1200 with struggle but smoothed itself out. I've cleaned the MAF and haven't had the issue since then. However, today I was just sitting in my car listening to music with the engine off. All of a sudden my radio cut out and instinctively tried to turn the car on; it wouldn't start. The lights on the dash seemed a lot dimmer than usual and the starter is just clicking. For 15 minutes of listening to music on low-medium level, I was shocked. I normally could play it for about an hour before starting the car without any issue. My battery is less than 2 years old (yes a vented battery.) I'm wondering if the alternator is beginning to take a dump on me. Can anyone shed any light on this? Thanks.
Weird issues in cold weather... Could someone explain?
- Thread starter fudge12
- Start date
So here's what I would do:
1) Replace battery under warranty or at a minimum take it out and get tested
2) Have alternator tested or better yet take to an actual shop for real diagnosis
3) Hope it's one of the above!
The autoparts alternator test is kind of a joke but it's better then nothing if that's what you have to work with. If you live somewhere that is reasonably close to a real alternator/starter shop then it might be worth having them do a diagnostic for you for a few bucks. If you are feeling handy you might be able to diagnose it yourself with a bit of time, a multi-meter, and lots of trial and error.
But if it's not the alternator or battery then you need to start looking at the wires starting with the big ones that feed the starter and alternator. Look for cracks and frays and bad connections, etc. Then start looking for vampire draw by using an ammeter on the battery and pulling fuses in the fuse box. After that it's mostly just trial-by-error and guessing.
1) Replace battery under warranty or at a minimum take it out and get tested
2) Have alternator tested or better yet take to an actual shop for real diagnosis
3) Hope it's one of the above!
The autoparts alternator test is kind of a joke but it's better then nothing if that's what you have to work with. If you live somewhere that is reasonably close to a real alternator/starter shop then it might be worth having them do a diagnostic for you for a few bucks. If you are feeling handy you might be able to diagnose it yourself with a bit of time, a multi-meter, and lots of trial and error.
But if it's not the alternator or battery then you need to start looking at the wires starting with the big ones that feed the starter and alternator. Look for cracks and frays and bad connections, etc. Then start looking for vampire draw by using an ammeter on the battery and pulling fuses in the fuse box. After that it's mostly just trial-by-error and guessing.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's not enough info to rule the alternator in or out.
Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Displ...qid=1392774055&sr=8-15&keywords=battery+gauge ($8)
or
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-B...&qid=1392774055&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+gauge ($14)
Plug it in and drive around for a while. If all is well, you should see around 14.4 volts while driving, and at least 14.0 while idling. Less than 13.8, and your alternator or wiring has problems for sure. Once you turn the car off, battery voltage should fall (after a short bit) to 12.6. The next day when you go to start it, it should have at least 12.3 volts before starting. It may fall to 9 volts or so while starting.
If all looks good, plug the gauge in every time you go somewhere and look at it now and then. Sometimes, the alternator is okay for a while, then bad for a while, then okay, then ...
Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Displ...qid=1392774055&sr=8-15&keywords=battery+gauge ($8)
or
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-B...&qid=1392774055&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+gauge ($14)
Plug it in and drive around for a while. If all is well, you should see around 14.4 volts while driving, and at least 14.0 while idling. Less than 13.8, and your alternator or wiring has problems for sure. Once you turn the car off, battery voltage should fall (after a short bit) to 12.6. The next day when you go to start it, it should have at least 12.3 volts before starting. It may fall to 9 volts or so while starting.
If all looks good, plug the gauge in every time you go somewhere and look at it now and then. Sometimes, the alternator is okay for a while, then bad for a while, then okay, then ...
I'll start doing that in the morning. I'm just worried about how I'll get home tonight from work. That's one sick looking LS you got there Kumba 
Edit: I'll try that Joe. My work place has a few of those things laying around. I forgot to mention, my radiator has a crack in the plastic just in front the upper radiator hose, causing coolant to spew out from between the grille and the passenger headlight every now and again. I wonder if coolant could've fallen onto the alternator (providing that it's within proximity of the leak)
Edit: I'll try that Joe. My work place has a few of those things laying around. I forgot to mention, my radiator has a crack in the plastic just in front the upper radiator hose, causing coolant to spew out from between the grille and the passenger headlight every now and again. I wonder if coolant could've fallen onto the alternator (providing that it's within proximity of the leak)
