Vortech and 99/01 Cobra engine

But don't be afraid to use B heads in FI builds. They make super power being stuffed with boost. Some of the biggest FI HP builds use B heads. The C heads have better velocity for better trq #'s in N/A builds.
 
The 9 threads are the best for holding plugs in for sure but not all 03/04 heads have the 9 threads correct?
 
Right on the Mark said:
But don't be afraid to use B heads in FI builds. They make super power being stuffed with boost. Some of the biggest FI HP builds use B heads. The C heads have better velocity for better trq #'s in N/A builds.
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I'm aware a B head can make just as much power. If I were building an engine, I would likely forge the one in the car and and slam it with boost. ;)

The whole reasoning behind this is simplicity. I travel for work and can be gone for days or a month at a time with little notice. So having an engine ready to go is preferred. I'm not a patient person and want results.

Not a good combo for a car guy. Especially when it isn't cheap. Between my diesel truck and cars something always has a mod waiting. Also why the car might wind up on a trailer headed to Temple for their 6sp conversion. Don't really have time to do it myself.

I think the 03/04 heads were revised mid 03. Not entirely sure. Never had a plug issue on any mod motor, so I'll deal with it if it ever comes up.
 
Screw-Rice said:
I'm aware a B head can make just as much power. If I were building an engine, I would likely forge the one in the car and and slam it with boost. ;)

The whole reasoning behind this is simplicity. I travel for work and can be gone for days or a month at a time with little notice. So having an engine ready to go is preferred. I'm not a patient person and want results.

Not a good combo for a car guy. Especially when it isn't cheap. Between my diesel truck and cars something always has a mod waiting. Also why the car might wind up on a trailer headed to Temple for their 6sp conversion. Don't really have time to do it myself.

I think the 03/04 heads were revised mid 03. Not entirely sure. Never had a plug issue on any mod motor, so I'll deal with it if it ever comes up.
Click to expand...

My last post was not directed just to you, it was for anyone reading this thread. Peeps will read post and think B heads are door stops and they stink, just like to put more info out there. The plug thing, kid across street blew 2 of them out of his F-150 4.6L. Now noted this was not our 4V engine.
 
Right on the Mark said:
The 9 threads are the best for holding plugs in for sure but not all 03/04 heads have the 9 threads correct?
Click to expand...

Correct, but all c heads have the 4 thread heads and all the original equipment 03/04 heads did too. 05 Aviators came with the updated heads from the factory. But they also flow better than the C heads, have better exhaust ports and essentially a fr500 intake port. Plus they come on more than Cobras like Machs, Aviators and Marauders.
The "best" production heads to get for a 4v "build" are the 2005 aviator heads. These heads have the revised coolant system, the updated exhaust ports, and 9 spark plug threads opposed to 4.
 
Right on the Mark said:
My last post was not directed just to you, it was for anyone reading this thread. Peeps will read post and think B heads are door stops and they stink, just like to put more info out there. The plug thing, kid across street blew 2 of them out of his F-150 4.6L. Now noted this was not our 4V engine.
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Far enough. I agree any of the 4.6 DOHC's can be built to make great power. :Beer

I prefer the C for the parts availability and aftermarket support.

The 4v's seem to be less prone to plug issues. The 3v's even had the issue until 05 or so. May helicoil all cylinders before swapping as insurance.
 
Glad you got what I meant:) Those 3V's snap plugs like mad removing them. Ford has like a 2 page write up on how to try to get them put with out leaving the lower part of plug in head. I really don't even want to touch them I "punt".
 
Going to get this rolling in a couple weeks when I get back into town. So lets keep the info rolling to make this efficient. Debating on adding a pair of Kooks. As much as I don't want to order from SCP, don't really have other options. Once everything is done, will be trailed to be dyno tuned.

For the Vortech-
Clearance radiator to make room for head unit.
Possibly modify inlet tube to adapt to intake.

01 Engine-
Aftermarket rails with regulator fitted with return line
Throttle cable

So what else is missing?
 
Screw-Rice said:
I'm aware a B head can make just as much power. If I were building an engine, I would likely forge the one in the car and and slam it with boost. ;)

The whole reasoning behind this is simplicity. I travel for work and can be gone for days or a month at a time with little notice. So having an engine ready to go is preferred. I'm not a patient person and want results.
Click to expand...

So get a core engine and do forged internals. If you're getting the ball rolling in a few weeks, you have a few weeks to find a solid rebuildable core. I understand wanting results, but the easiest way of getting something done is rarely going to net the best results.
 
That 01 engine only has a forged crank. (If its a cobra engine) still has powder rods and non forged pistons.
Just depends on how much boost you want to run if you go that route.
A couple other issues I will note.. the crank timing gear/ring should be upgraded as well as the oil pump. Factory oil pump is ok but you can get better rotors for it, as you get on it and let off the crank will always walk some.. too much and the front components are short lived.
You can also get a rear billet cover if you like, the price on those aren't to bad.
A cooler will always help and may save the pistons/rings seeing as the clearance wasn't set up for boost.
Again it depends on what and how much.
 
Cobra engine with a stick right???
Auto was not a forged crank...or so I read somewhere.
 
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