Viper vs Factory alarm

[solarys]

Help needed! I have a factory alarm, along with Viper alarm installed in a 2K5 Lincoln LS. If I set the Viper alarm, I will go off every 15 mins, eventually killing the battery. Does anybody have any idea what is triggering the Viper alarm?

Thanks in advance

 

[joegr]

Help needed! I have a factory alarm, along with Viper alarm installed in a 2K5 Lincoln LS. If I set the Viper alarm, I will go off every 15 mins, eventually killing the battery. Does anybody have any idea what is triggering the Viper alarm?

Thanks in advance

I would suspect that it is triggering when the car electronics go to sleep. What lines did you tap into?

 

[soccer2live]

rip it out. viper alarms cause so many problems over time.

 

[solarys]

I would suspect that it is triggering when the car electronics go to sleep. What lines did you tap into?

I am not sure what lines were tapped into. Tweeter did the install. Tweeter is now out of business.

 

[gcwimmer]

I will go off every 15 mins, eventually killing the battery. Does anybody have any idea what is triggering the Viper alarm?

Thanks in advance

What kind of sound do you make when you go off....chirp, honk or whoop?

 

[joegr]

I am not sure what lines were tapped into. Tweeter did the install. Tweeter is now out of business.

Okay, well you left out some information and I incorrectly assumed that this was a new install. I now assume that it was put in a while back and had been working correctly up until now. Would that assumption be correct?

If so, it could be one of the following...

1. Your Viper is failing.
2. One or more wiring splices are coming loose.
3. Your battery is getting weak.

 

[1LoudLS]

I would suspect that it is triggering when the car electronics go to sleep. What lines did you tap into?

i believe this is the problem, the door triggers are negative trigger N/C (which is the opposite of what the viper needs to see)(older vipers need to see a N/O circuit), so with the LS you are suposed to tap the door trigger wire in to a dome light wire (usually the one in the foot well) however once the computers shut down, there is a small resistance to ground through the doom light wire that will trigger the viper alarm, you need to isolate the circuit with a relay, which a lot of places dont do, also because the lights dim down as they turn off, this will make the relay kick on and off a bunch of times real fast and can sound like a box of bees.

viper alarms cause so many problems over time.

propped installed alarms will last just as long as factory alarms, especially since vipers have a lifetime warranty, its when you have some jack hole that doesn't know what hes doing or care to take the time to do it right that causes the problem, which can happen anywhere, including most dealerships

 

[solarys]

Yeah, the Viper Alarm was transfered from a car I owned. I really believe the installers at this certain Tweeter store were clueless. The original car I had the Viper installed in was a 96 I30. Which did not have this issue. The Tweeter installer was different too. Looks like a job a for a pro. Thanks everyone for their feedback.

 

[genocide]

I have a Viper installed on mine as well, The first post is right, it's from the electronice going to sleep. I had to have a relay installed in the trunk. (idiots installed it under my frickin dash at first) makes a horrid springing noise.

Anyway I have had no problems with mines since then. Great alarm, I chose it over factory because of the auto lock feature, I guess i forgot to set my factory alarm one night and someone tried to steal my kenwood

 

[1LoudLS]

I had to have a relay installed in the trunk. (idiots installed it under my frickin dash at first) makes a horrid springing noise.

yea i had to relocate my "box of bee's" to under the hood after about three days

I chose it over factory because of the auto lock feature,

everybody thinks i'm crazy, but i love passive locking too, not only can you never forget to lock your car, but the batteries in the remote will last twice as long since your just using the remote to unlock/disarm.

 

[LS4me]

Anyway I have had no problems with mines since then.

I'll bet none of us have had a problem with mines........

 

[LeaSr77]

I've had an Viper 791 alarm on my car for five years and mine do this as well. It will go off as soon as I arm it and never knew why. After I had it installed in 05 and this happened a few times, I took it back to the shop where I had it installed and they couldn't figure it out. Now I know. So can anyone tell me where I need to install the relay at to solve this problem.

 

[1LoudLS]

So can anyone tell me where I need to install the relay at to solve this problem.

at the dome light wire(the wire from the foot area light) (its the door trigger wire from the alarm brain)

85 - 12v+
86 - negative trigger wire from light
87a - not used
30 - ground
87 - trigger wire from alarm brain

if the shop has access to DirecTechs websight (all authorized retailers do) it has a very specific note about this issue with instruction how to do it.

It will go off as soon as I arm it and never knew why

this actually sounds like a different problem, since it is happening before the computers go to sleep, it may(just a guess) be because they tapped in to the actual door trigger wires which is the normal way to do it, but wont work with the type of door triggers these cars have.

all the newer systems(5701, 5901, and 5902) this year have finally added a programming option for N/C door triggers, yeaaa!

 

[1LoudLS]

I'll bet none of us have had a problem with mines........

i hope not at least

 

[Alax7]

at the dome light wire(the wire from the foot area light) (its the door trigger wire from the alarm brain)

85 - 12v+
86 - negative trigger wire from light
87a - not used
30 - ground
87 - trigger wire from alarm brain

if the shop has access to DirecTechs websight (all authorized retailers do) it has a very specific note about this issue with instruction how to do it.


this actually sounds like a different problem, since it is happening before the computers go to sleep, it may(just a guess) be because they tapped in to the actual door trigger wires which is the normal way to do it, but wont work with the type of door triggers these cars have.

all the newer systems(5701, 5901, and 5902) this year have finally added a programming option for N/C door triggers, yeaaa!

This will come in handy, planning on installing a viper alarm in mine this summer

 

[1LoudLS]

This will come in handy, planning on installing a viper alarm in mine this summer

you will definitely want to get ahold of me when you do it, so i can go over with you how to get the windows to roll down AND UP from the remote with out having to buy the expensive window module (because the car already has this feature built in)

 

[Alax7]

SWEET!!!!!!!!!!! I'll do that. Thanks

 

[genocide]

I'll bet none of us have had a problem with mines........

ah and out comes the forum, grammer and spell checker.

Anyway how did you wire it to let the windows roll up and down with the remote? I have the 5901. I'd love to have that feature.

 

[LS4me]

ah and out comes the forum, grammar and spell checker.

First off, grammar corrected. Then......

http://theoatmeal.com/comics/misspelling

 

[1LoudLS]

Anyway how did you wire it to let the windows roll up and down with the remote? I have the 5901. I'd love to have that feature.

well with this car, the lock wires that you are suppose to tap into are the drivers key cylinder wires @ the DDM (you catch the wire between the key cylinder and the Drivers Door Module usually right at the DDM connector)

well one of neat things that this car does all buy its self is roll the windows up or down if you turn the key in the door AND HOLD IT.

the ddm get this signal from those wires and does the job, the way you make the viper do this is to also run aux channels to those same wires, this can be done right at the viper brain so that you only have to run two wires into the door, then programming the viper alarm (you may need a DEI bitwritter to do this) to do a timed output (i forget the exact time, its however long it takes from the time you turn the key until the time the job is done plus a couple of seconds to make sure~ right around 18 seconds), but you will aslo need to diod isolate all of the wires so that the viper brain doesnt "see" any backfeed, this should have also been done with the alarms "factory alarm disarm" wire.

basically it should look like this:
the lock wire @ the DDM should have the viper's lock wire, and the aux channel #(whatever you want to use) tapped into it with diods placed inline with each vipers wire BEFORE the tap

and the unlock wire @ the DDM should have the viper's unlock wire, the viper's factory alarm disarm wire, and the aux channel #(different aux channel than the above wire) all tapped into it with three diods isolating each wire again.
with both aux channels programmed to timed outputs.

 

[1LoudLS]

First off, grammar corrected. Then......

that just made my day! ROFL

 

[joegr]

...
well one of neat things that this car does all buy its self is roll the windows up or down if you turn the key in the door AND HOLD IT.
...

I guess we need to add one about "by", "buy", and "bye."

Couldn't resist...