VCG question / confirmation

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MarkVa1

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Well, I'm gonna insert a few images, just curious if I'm on the right track. Car was studdering a little while driving so I figured it was the coil on plugs or possibly worse, the valve cover gasket. I replaced the passenger side VCG a year ago and that was about as much PITA as I'm good for...... but I went ahead and started taking the driver's side apart last night.

The pictures of the ignition coils are the two closest to the driver, which is pretty much what the postings here would say to expect. The tech article says to bleed the fuel line to move it out of the way. I'm not really sure how that plastic clip bleeds the pressure off? And I'm not sure how to release the metal clasp holding the tubes connected to the reservoir. Hopefully the picture explains things better than I can - I think I have 2, maybe 3 things in my way and I'm not sure how to move them. Is it the horn that is bolted to the frame and over the top of driver's side compartment? I would circle what I'm talking about on the image, but I don't know how to do that.

Anyway - really just mostly curious if the oil I'm seeing on the ignition coils is the typical gasket problem. I'll dig a little more to try and figure out how to get all of these damn things out of my way!!

any thoughts are appreciated!

Mark.

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OK Thanks - and I will clean my engine..... :(

Is bleeding the fuel line difficult? The Tech article suggests using some type of plastic attachment to help bleed the line? Will there be that much fuel in the line if I simply remove it?
 
Hardly any fuel came out when I released the pressure with the schrader valve. Just get some rags and you should be fine.
 
well, I'm stuck, but it's a good stuck because I at least have the valve cover off. But I didn't figure out how to get the fuel line (I think it's the fuel line) out of my way - so I can't get the cover out of the engine compartment. I'm going to dig a little more about removing the line - I thought it was just a rubber tube, then I realized it was stainless steel covered in rubber and nothing seems to just want to disconnect by pulling it apart. But, at least I see the light at the end of the tunnel.
 
MarkVa1 said:
well, I'm stuck, but it's a good stuck because I at least have the valve cover off. But I didn't figure out how to get the fuel line (I think it's the fuel line) out of my way - so I can't get the cover out of the engine compartment. I'm going to dig a little more about removing the line - I thought it was just a rubber tube, then I realized it was stainless steel covered in rubber and nothing seems to just want to disconnect by pulling it apart. But, at least I see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Click to expand...

You need to release the pressure from the fuel system before unhooking that line. That's what the schrader valve is used for. Also, I used a special tool to get the fuel line disconnected. I had to go out and buy it, but I'd rather do things the right way. :D Maybe someone else knows of a way to disconnect it without the tool (you would still need to release teh pressure on the system though). Isn't all of this in the how-to posted around here?
 
I'd suggest reading the Tech Article on performing this task. I just took a quick glance at it and found this:

The fuel line must be disconnected for clearance. Find the schrader valve and release pressure from there first. I used my fuel pressure gauge as it has a release button. Get a set of those plastic fuel line release tools, if you don't have them. They work great. Push it in place and pull the fuel line straight out using a rag to catch any run-off. The line will twist out of your way now. If you are in a garage with a gas furnace, be careful here!
Click to expand...

And the picture:
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OK, now I understand what was confusing me, I didn't realize the picture in the tech article was of the fuel pressure gauge already on the Schroeder valve. I feel stupid, but it's not the first time so I'll be fine. ;) I'm out to buy the plastic white clip to help release the line - baby steps to the elevator.......... Thanks for your help!
 
If the engine has not been run for some time the fuel pressure has probably already bled off. Just cram a rag underneath of the line when you unhook it to catch anything that might come out.
 
thanks for all of the help, got the new gasket in place and replaced all of the coils/plugs and the car is running great! never would have tried this myself without this website - and the dealer wanted over $1000 to do it - so thanks so much to everyone who makes this site possible!!!

last question, the emissions light came on right before I replaced the gasket/coils/plugs - it's still on with all of the new equipment. will it turn off automatically or do I need to get a code reader and have it turned off using the reader??

thanks

mark.
 
I'd go have your codes cleared. If it comes back up again, there are some other codes in there that need to be addressed.
 
You can try resetting it by disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes. The light should be off after you hook it back up, but if it comes back on after driving around for a little while you may want to stop by Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts to have the code(s) read.
 
you need a 1/2 Ford fuel line disconnect tool - pep boys, autozone, ... couple of $$

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thanks - got the plastic fuel line tool and as advertised was simple! had to put 2 new back tires on to pass state inspection the other day, so with all new coils, plugs, both VCG's replaced and new back tires I can honestly say she is running as good as ever! so glad that is done - since I know very little about cars, replacing the VCG's pushed me to my limits!

thanks for eveyone's help.......

maybe I can convince my wife to let me buy a set of those Jag rims with the money I saved by DIY?? :D

mark.
 
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