Valve cover gasket replacement questions

[Tony_1992]

The last time I replaced the spark plugs, I found some engine oil deep in the tubes around spark plugs. It looks like a classic problem, leaking of O-rings around spark plug. So I decided to replace them. Here are some questions:

1. Do I need to fully remove all of the four spark plugs to lift the valve cover up and replace the o-rings? I really don't want to contaminate the combustion chambers.
2. I'm thinking of buying this sets of gasket from rockauto: More Information for FEL-PRO VS50724R . Does it comes with all things needed to finish this job? Do I still need to by some other materials?

Thank you guys! I think lots of you should have the experience working with valve cover gasket.

 

[Kumba]

You do not have to pull the plugs when doing the valve cover gasket. Although, it is quite a bit easier to change the plugs once the cover is off, especially the rear plug. I went ahead and pulled the plugs after popping the cover off. It's a lot easier to get down into the plug wells and clean them without the cover on. Just go slow and be careful about whatever dirt you dig out of the wells falling into the head.

That valve cover gasket includes everything but the VCT (Valve Cam Timing) Solenoid seal for the Gen2. Ford also calls it a "Camshaft Cover Seal". You'll have to buy that from a Ford dealer. In theory you can replace them without removing the head but it's a hell of a lot easier without the solenoid in the way. That part number is 2W9Z-6A545-AA. If you have a Gen1 then you do not have a seal for the solenoid so that kit would be complete.

 

[Tony_1992]

You do not have to pull the plugs when doing the valve cover gasket. Although, it is quite a bit easier to change the plugs once the cover is off, especially the rear plug. I went ahead and pulled the plugs after popping the cover off. It's a lot easier to get down into the plug wells and clean them without the cover on. Just go slow and be careful about whatever dirt you dig out of the wells falling into the head.

That valve cover gasket includes everything but the VCT (Valve Cam Timing) Solenoid seal for the Gen2. Ford also calls it a "Camshaft Cover Seal". You'll have to buy that from a Ford dealer. In theory you can replace them without removing the head but it's a hell of a lot easier without the solenoid in the way. That part number is 2W9Z-6A545-AA. If you have a Gen1 then you do not have a seal for the solenoid so that kit would be complete.

Thank you! For the solenoid seals, I have already replaced them so they won't be the problem.
But, I just take a look at the valve cover, there are so many bottom bolts which are very difficult to touch even with an extension bar. Is there any knack on doing this?

 

[Kumba]

A good 1/4" drive 10mm 6-point socket with a short wobble extension will get to the pain in the ass bolts. No, there is no trick other then cussing a lot. I was able to use my 3/8 drive on all but 4 of the bolts I believe. The two in the back, the one by the shock tower, and the one by the clamp for the heater hoses. So 3 of the bottom bolts and one of the top bolts.

Thank you! For the solenoid seals, I have already replaced them so they won't be the problem.
But, I just take a look at the valve cover, there are so many bottom bolts which are very difficult to touch even with an extension bar. Is there any knack on doing this?

 

[Tony_1992]

A good 1/4" drive 10mm 6-point socket with a short wobble extension will get to the pain in the ass bolts. No, there is no trick other then cussing a lot. I was able to use my 3/8 drive on all but 4 of the bolts I believe. The two in the back, the one by the shock tower, and the one by the clamp for the heater hoses. So 3 of the bottom bolts and one of the top bolts.

OK, thank you so much. I'll see if I can handle this.

 

[Kumba]

Just did the drivers side valve cover gaskets. That's the REAL pain in the ass of the two. In addition to all that, you'll need a 10mm combo wrench in order to get to the rear lower bolt. There's no room for a socket but plenty of room to snake a wrench in there.

Half the wiring harness will also be dangling around in your way along with all of the fuel and brake lines. They don't get removed but can be disconnected and pulled back when you're ready.