V6 Motor Mount

[milehighmikey]

I thought that my rear transmission mount was causing a weird shift movement on WOT power or compression braking. On hard starts, I can feel something hit under there. I changed that transmission mount, not much changed. The old one was soaked with dexron from the manual transmission's tailshaft oil seal. Changed the seal and the mount. Anyhow, I figure that if someone is watching my engine with the hood open, if I do a high torque fake start with the parking brake fully on. No BS, the engine's left side lifted up big time. I looked at the manual and read the procedure for changing the mount. Looks like a pain. You end up having to drop the steering linkage from the rack, and drop the subframe, but looking at the picture in the manual and the real car, I don't see the likeness to what I saw. I saw the outer ends of the sub-frame with two bolts each side at the very ends. The picture shows four bolts in a line, so maybe I am looking at the wrong part on my actual car's sub-frame.

Has anyone done an engine mount remove and replace on either a V-8 or a V-6?

They sell these on rock auto. I have one heading to my house for $57 shipped. Autozone shows it a special order item, for $66, my FLAPS has it listed for $76, 360 miles away in Baltimore and ford list is $86.

 

[milehighmikey]

I can see that the right end of the picture is the sway bar end link, the very inside of the steering knuckle, but I was under my car on a lift and could not see that bolt pattern. I guess that what I am asking is that if I loosen the bolts at the ends of the cross member, is that what it took for you to get a motor mount unmounted?

 

[Mechanicboy]

When you say left side, are you viewing from the driver's seat or stand in front of the radiator? I remember looking at the engine mounts when i was doing my clutch and it looked easy to do on the passenger side when the starter was removed but I don't remember what the driver side looked like.

 

[milehighmikey]

Universal side nomenclature. Left side = drivers, left hand drive, etc. You don't have to pull the starter for the right side, ironically. You don't have to disconnect the steering linkage from the wheel to the rack, or drop any sub-frame for the right side, either. You have to start off the same way for either side, though, meaning for either side, you have to remove the intake manifold tuning valve. That means pulling the cowl (wipers, too) and the three point brace from there to be able to raise the engine enough to clear the mount studs.

By the way, changing my transmission tail housing seal did not cure that leak! That was a good waste of time changing that thing.

 

[Mechanicboy]

By the way, changing my transmission tail housing seal did not cure that leak! That was a good waste of time changing that thing.

You sure it was the output shaft seal that was leaking and not the shifter seal leaking down onto the output shaft? Either way I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you.

 

[milehighmikey]

You sure it was the output shaft seal that was leaking and not the shifter seal leaking down onto the output shaft? Either way I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you.

It did appear that there may have been a fluid leakage path from that shifter shaft seal, so, no, I am not sure it wasn't that. Did you change yours?

 

[Mechanicboy]

It did appear that there may have been a fluid leakage path from that shifter shaft seal, so, no, I am not sure it wasn't that. Did you change yours?

Yea I changed mine, but I haven't driven much since I changed mine. I haven't noticed any oil spots though. I'm installing new exhaust clamps, actually band clamps to be exact so I'll let you knew if I notice anything.

 

[milehighmikey]

Yea I changed mine, but I haven't driven much since I changed mine. I haven't noticed any oil spots though. I'm installing new exhaust clamps, actually band clamps to be exact so I'll let you knew if I notice anything.

I added stainless band clamps last year after changing my drive shaft support bearing. Nice stuff. They don't seal well, but they came right off 9 months later in reusable condition!

 

[Mechanicboy]

I added stainless band clamps last year after changing my drive shaft support bearing. Nice stuff. They don't seal well, but they came right off 9 months later in reusable condition!

They don't seal well? Really? I've used the h3ll out of them and they seal great on 4" and 5" exhaust for trucks(semi), that's why I have purchased them for my LS. The only time I've had them not seal well is when they are rusted to all h3ll and I use a exhaust sealant that's much like a liquid ceramic that dries to seal.

I'm using this style of clap because the magnaflow clamps just weren't cutting it and were leaking. For some reason I just can get myself to weld them, something just keeps telling me I shouldn't... It's weird.

 

[milehighmikey]

They don't seal well? Really? I've used the h3ll out of them and they seal great on 4" and 5" exhaust for trucks(semi), that's why I have purchased them for my LS. The only time I've had them not seal well is when they are rusted to all h3ll and I use a exhaust sealant that's much like a liquid ceramic that dries to seal.

I'm using this style of clap because the magnaflow clamps just weren't cutting it and were leaking. For some reason I just can get myself to weld them, something just keeps telling me I shouldn't... It's weird.

I'll snap a photo of my carbon trails leading away from the clamps next week. I'm using them on a stock exhaust system and they spread their pressure over a large area, which results in not being able to clamp the pipe shut.