cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
All this 'massaging hoses' bit sounds kinda kinky to me!!
KS
KS
Upper radiator hose made by good year.
- Thread starter Blueberryyum02
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, it could be the DCCV, but it probably isn't. Those mostly fail in the open position, and it wouldn't have given you heat while bleeding it. I'm betting that it's air in the heater loop that's preventing circulation.
Did you fully (or at least mostly) drain it and refill and bleed exactly by the gen I procedure?
I suppose it could be the aux pump as it would be hard to correctly bleed it without that working.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
Yes I bled the system to the T per instruction, I just finished bleeding the system again and I noticed that at the engine fill the level was real low plus I'm getting water droplets in the degass bottle. When I hold the aux or touch with my fingers I feel no vibration, also the the hose at the fire wall is barely warm I can hold the hose for a hour with the engine revving, and not get burned. My first thoughts was the aux pump.
Also I massaged the hoses and noticed that as I filled the engine at the filler cap, I waited at least 15 to 20 minutes and the level went down some, not much but just below the opening down in the housing. Hopefully I can purge this thing if not I just take it and have it flush and refilled. Also it never overheated I left it running with the a/c on and no over heating.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
I didn't drain the system at all I just drained the degass bottle put the new one in and top everything off. I got heat that time but just now I got nothing plus the hoses at the heater core feel like they are empty, very spongey when pressing them.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The point to draining it and filling per instructions is that it allows a path for a lot of the air in the system to escape before you ever get to the bleeding part.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's a good sign that all the air wasn't bled out and/or you have a leak somewhere.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
Now that I did not know, so no I didn't bleed it correctly. How much should I drain out?
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
All the plastic is new and the degass bottle is new, radiator is less then a year old, what else have I missed as far as possible places that could leak, or allow air into the system.
RigsLS
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The Aux coolant flow pump is only used at low idle to assist in pushing hot coolant into the interior heater core, once the RPM's are up a little the system does the rest.
A failing or faulty Auxiliary coolant flow pump is determined by no/little heat at idle but plenty of heat at higher RPMS. On the 1st GEN LS, if you have plenty of heat at highway speeds but get luke warm or cold air blowing from the vents when idling at intersections or parked, it is then time to look into testing the Auxiliary flow pump. check connector first before replacement. It's a little 12volt BOSCH propeller liquid bail pump if you will ... it'll get corroded and gummed up as the vehicle ages. From what I've read they don't tend to fail prematurely. It's a got old/burned out ordeal.
Blue, what brand name degas bottle did you replace it with, please tell me you didn't put the Dorman version on it.
there is a problem with the thread design where the cap meets, it will not retain pressure for long, they are reported to fail either immediately or sooner then expected.
Hopefully you replaced the Degas bottle with the OEM stock FORD version (p/n 5W4Z-8A080-AA) and ensured it came with a new fresh cap. Inspect that the blow off tube inside the bottle is still attached, the thread on the cap HAS to be able to maintain pressure ... without checking on it I believe it's around the 16 PSI mark.
With any leaks into the system as it heats/cools it will suck in and introduce air into the system and due overheating and no heat from vents will result.
As Joe mentions the system has air in it, if it's not getting hot coolant to the interior heater core lines at the firewall entry, It's either one of two problems, has a large airlock in it or is continuously allowing air into the closed looped system. (Not enough adequate pressure)
Also, please check fuse #1 underhood, potentially somehow the DCCV shorted and blew the fuse and could have stopped it in the closed position, not likely but please do check fuse #1, 10Amp, it'll be listed as A/C CLUTCH ASSY
If this helps any: GEN I - Understanding Climate Control System - No Heat Information
A failing or faulty Auxiliary coolant flow pump is determined by no/little heat at idle but plenty of heat at higher RPMS. On the 1st GEN LS, if you have plenty of heat at highway speeds but get luke warm or cold air blowing from the vents when idling at intersections or parked, it is then time to look into testing the Auxiliary flow pump. check connector first before replacement. It's a little 12volt BOSCH propeller liquid bail pump if you will ... it'll get corroded and gummed up as the vehicle ages. From what I've read they don't tend to fail prematurely. It's a got old/burned out ordeal.
Blue, what brand name degas bottle did you replace it with, please tell me you didn't put the Dorman version on it.
there is a problem with the thread design where the cap meets, it will not retain pressure for long, they are reported to fail either immediately or sooner then expected.
Hopefully you replaced the Degas bottle with the OEM stock FORD version (p/n 5W4Z-8A080-AA) and ensured it came with a new fresh cap. Inspect that the blow off tube inside the bottle is still attached, the thread on the cap HAS to be able to maintain pressure ... without checking on it I believe it's around the 16 PSI mark.
With any leaks into the system as it heats/cools it will suck in and introduce air into the system and due overheating and no heat from vents will result.
As Joe mentions the system has air in it, if it's not getting hot coolant to the interior heater core lines at the firewall entry, It's either one of two problems, has a large airlock in it or is continuously allowing air into the closed looped system. (Not enough adequate pressure)
Also, please check fuse #1 underhood, potentially somehow the DCCV shorted and blew the fuse and could have stopped it in the closed position, not likely but please do check fuse #1, 10Amp, it'll be listed as A/C CLUTCH ASSY
If this helps any: GEN I - Understanding Climate Control System - No Heat Information
RigsLS
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You did put a new FORD thermostat into that new Jaguar Stat housing right ?
~ mind you are not referencing overheating problems. Not related then.
~ mind you are not referencing overheating problems. Not related then.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
It's a dorman degass bottle ( can I at least finish my cigarette before you guys slap me in the mouth.) lol
It's not getting any heat now at idle or 2000 plus RPMS, the system is holding pressure from what I can tell. I let it idle with the ac on for at least a hour and no signs of overheating.
Also I have a Stant cap not the one dorman has on the bottle. that fits on it so tight I had to use channel locks to get it off.
It's not getting any heat now at idle or 2000 plus RPMS, the system is holding pressure from what I can tell. I let it idle with the ac on for at least a hour and no signs of overheating.
Also I have a Stant cap not the one dorman has on the bottle. that fits on it so tight I had to use channel locks to get it off.
RigsLS
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Hmmm, ok so worry about getting heat at higher RPM's before determining the Aux flow pump needs replacement. (probably does anyhow.)
There has to be an airlock in the cooling system. If it can NOT be bleed out, it would mean there is a hairline stress crack somewhere that, with heat cycling is causing a leak. IN ORDER TO GET AN AIR LOCK OUT, THERE HAS TO BE PRESSURE. I myself had cracks in my degas bottle and never overheated once, mind ya I had the regular intermittent heat to complete no heat failure. ... At the same time I had issues with "Only heat at higher RPM's" = Aux flow pump + "Warm air out of passenger side vents only during AC" = DCCV. ... and eventually within a couple of weeks, I did have to begin to top up the coolant in the degas reservoir, which then took a complete crap and started dripping coolant behind the drivers front wheel. (at that point I had ZERO heat)
was I rebleeding?, sure but to no avail as there were multiple issues and my degas bottle had developed several stress cracks.
Ended up gathering parts ahead of time as I knew very well the entire cooling system needed overhauling. (minus rad and hoses)
Kink is good but not in your hoses.
Blueberryyum02
Well-Known LVC Member
That's what got me stumped all plastic is new hose are new. I'm leaning towards the jag thermostat housing, for some odd reason I feel like those back bolts aren't torqued down all the way. Cause the swivel head wrench I was using started to lift off the bolt head so I tighten it down and stopped to avoid stripping the heads of the screw.
Got a 8mm crows foot in route to make sure, they are good and tight.
I'm also leaning towards just flat out draining the system and refilling it.
Cause I notice that when I open the engine bleed screw cold coolant comes out first then hot.
Got a 8mm crows foot in route to make sure, they are good and tight.
I'm also leaning towards just flat out draining the system and refilling it.
Cause I notice that when I open the engine bleed screw cold coolant comes out first then hot.