Upper ball joint knuckle removel

Lownslowlsc

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I'm trying to put in my front 1.5" conversion kit and cant get the dam bolt out of the pass side uca knuckle. Any tips? I've tried a hammer with no success.
 
Nut off and then whacking at it after you spray it with penetrating oil usually works..... The bolt must be out for it to disconnect, nut just loosened.
 
yea, i got that far today and forgot to spray it. I'll try again tomarrow.thanks. Just makin sure i didn't do something wrong.
 
Put a wrench on it and move it back and forth the little bit that it will move as you hit it with a hammer...
 
I used a long bar attached to the socket for extra leverage (a pipe I have that fits over the end of the socket wrench to make it about 3 ft long) that got it loose for me
 
Thanks guys. Wish me luck. It's supposed to be a whopping 25 degrees tomarrow. Dont know what the rush is seeing as its not coming out of the garage for another 2.5 months. Just bored i guess. I literally have half a page of stuff i want to get done to it this winter. Most little but still....
 
I'm not retarted jamie, lol.. I tried 3 different sizes. Now that i sprayed it, it will hopefully go well tomarrow. Sick of this sagging sh!t. It will be no more.
 
try jacking the whole assembly up a little, or pry it down some. Then attach the BFH to it, worked for me.

+2 ive also seen where you have to pry the upper arm down a little (not so much on markviii's, but fords in general) to release a little tension off of the bolt. if that dont work, wrench on the square end and a BFH like kid said.
 
Also try spreading the clamp section a bit with a BFscrewdriver, or small chissle. Yeah I know it's spelt rong, don't kare.
 
Also try spreading the clamp section a bit with a BFscrewdriver, or small chissle. Yeah I know it's spelt rong, don't kare.


Tried that before i sprayed it down. I'm going to start workin in a little bit.
 
OK GUYS... Got the strut in but am not sure how to realign the Spindel and the the upper bj. I left the bottom strut bolt alittle loose as the tech article said but the spindel would not budge. The spindel is at 2o'clock and wont move back. Also do you have to take the swaybar endlinks off? I loosened the top bolt on the spindel but wasn't sure if i had to do anything else. God i feel like a noob. Replacing the air struts was not this big of a pain.

On a side note. The wd-40 worked like a charm.
 
My strut was off by a few degrees, being by myself this is how I did it...

FILE0134.gif


I put that clamp, and twisted while the jack was underneath holding it at the right height.

FILE0135.gif

FILE0137.gif
 
Green linc - what's that getup for? Changing the upper ball joint shouldn't affect alignment? Have I missed something when I've done my uppers?
 
Sorry, instead of reading the post, I skimmed it and thought the bottom bolt wasn't lined up like in my pics. after re-reading it I see its got nothing to do with my pics.
 
My strut was off by a few degrees, being by myself this is how I did it...

FILE0134.gif


I put that clamp, and twisted while the jack was underneath holding it at the right height.

FILE0135.gif

FILE0137.gif


the strut wasn't the prob though. Good idea using a clamp though.
 
All done on the pass side. Now that i no how to do it, it should only take me no more than 20-25 minutes. Everything is harder the first time. Lost a dam swaybar nut though.

As for the spindel, the first time i didnt jack it up far enough and got worried. The floor jack was maxing out and was confused. Ends up the car was jacked to high thus it not working properly. Lowered the car more and everything was fine.
 
Found the swaybar nut on the drivers side for some reason? So the pass side is COMPLETLY DONE. Took me about 40min to do the drivers side cuase my knees were killing me. ouch!

Alot lower than i had thought with my rim/tire combo. But i'm putting 235/45 in front and 245/45 in the rear so it has some more tire for a better ride.

Thanks all for the help.
 

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