Upcoming Transmission Maintenance

Lincoln LS

  1. Robert Crain

    Robert Crain New LVC Member

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    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2019
    Location:
    New England
    Greetings all, In my quest to help get my LS to 250k and beyond, I want to drop the transmission pan, clean out the crud and replace the filter. Two questions: First, does the pan gasket need to be replaced or is it designed to be re-usable? Second, how much fluid do I need to purchase for this project? I realize that my efforts will only replace a portion of the total capacity but some replacement is better than nothing. Will five quarts be sufficient?

    BTW, great website. With the help of the experts here this past weekend, I was able to successfully replace a door actuator and door latch assembly. Now the car will pass state inspection. Thanks guys! Rob
     
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    • AmsterDutch

      AmsterDutch Dedicated LVC Member

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      Joined:
      Jul 9, 2017
      Location:
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      Hey Rob,
      I always found this little write up helpful ...hope it helps you also ...cheers

      “My 2000 Jaguar S-Type has the Ford 5R55N transmission, also used in
      LincolnLS and some Ford Thunderbirds. Thus the only way you can know if it is low is
      to either wait until it starts misbehaving, or check it by
      following this procedure.
      Here are some instructions for those who wish to do this job
      themselves.

      Tools you will need:
      8mm Allen hex for filler plug on back of tailcase
      T30 Torx for standpipe plug
      7/8’’ or 22mm box end for drain plug
      18mm box end for turning engine crankshaft
      4mm Allen hex for torque converter
      5 gallon bucket or big drain pan
      7.5 quarts Mercon V transmission fluid
      8 ft length of 3/8’’ ID clear Tygon tubing

      You need to get the car up high, like on a safe lift or tall sturdy
      jack stands, or drive it over a pit. Not just the front end on
      ramps, because it must be LEVEL. High enough and sturdy enough that
      you feel safe getting under it with the engine running.
      The filler plug is at the back of the rear extension housing to the
      right of the driveshaft. Remove the filler plug using the 8mm Allen
      hex. There is a rubber sealant on the threads.
      Start the engine and let the trans oil warm up to 100F or 36C.
      Leave the engine running.
      Place the pan under the drain plug.
      The outer drain plug is actually a stand pipe inside the pan. The
      correct level of fluid is to the top of this stand pipe with the
      engine running.
      Unlike an engine, the trans fluid level is checked with the engine
      running so the fluid is at its lowest level condition.
      Remove the inner drain plug using the T30 Torx. There is a rubber
      sealant on the threads. You may have to hold the outer drain plug
      using the 7/8’’ or 22mm box end.
      If oil pours out the stand pipe, it was too full. If nothing comes
      out, and you only want to fill it, proceed to the filling step.
      DRAINING
      If you want to change all the fluid, shut the engine off.
      Remove the outer drain plug using the 7/8’’ or 22mm box end. About
      3.5 quarts will drain out here. Replace the rubber o-ring on the
      plug.
      Pry out the 1.5’’ 38mm diameter rubber plug in the bottom of the
      bell housing for access to the torque convertor drain plug.
      Turn the engine over with the 18mm box end on the front end of the
      crankshaft until you see the torque convertor drain plug through
      the access hole. Remove the 18mm wrench now so you won’t forget.
      Remove the torque convertor drain plug using the 4mm Allen hex.
      About 4 quarts will drain out here. Replace the rubber o-ring on
      the plug.
      If you are changing the filter and/or gasket, remove the pan now.
      Check the pan sealing face for flatness. Sometimes the bolt holes
      are dimpled out from overtightening, so hammer them back down level.
      After the oil has pretty well drained, replace the torque convertor
      drain plug, rubber cover plug, filter, gasket, pan, outer drain
      plug and inner plug.

      • Part 2
        FILLING
        Remove the cap from one Mercon V quart container. Drill a hole in
        the cap somewhat smaller than the tubing, a nice round hole. Insert
        the free end of the tubing into the cap about an inch. It should
        fit tightly in the hole.
        Feed the other end of the 3/8’’ Tygon tubing over the exhaust heat
        shield and into the filler hole in the trans. Screw the cap back on
        the bottle.
        Hold the bottle up by the door, higher than the trans, turn it
        upside down, and squeeze the bottle. Watch the oil flow into the
        trans. To empty the bottle, you will have to turn it right side up
        and unscrew the cap a bit to allow air in a few times. There are
        pumps on the market that fit these quart bottles if you don’t care
        to squeeze them.
        After you have 5 or 6 quarts in it, start the engine.
        Let it run a few minutes to let the oil warm up and get pumped into
        the torque convertor.
        Now you can remove the inner drain plug with the T30 Torx.
        With the engine running, keep adding fluid until it runs out the
        inner drain plug.
        Shift the trans through all the gears, including the J-gate manual
        positions.
        Add more fluid until it runs out the stand pipe.
        Replace the inner drain plug with the T30 Torx.
        Remove the Tygon tubing and replace the filler plug with the 8mm
        Allen hex.
        Shut off the engine, and let the car down.

        These words are stamped into the bottom of the pan:
        ‘‘Fluid check - run engine until fluid flow from inner plug stops.
        Add Mercon V at extension housing until fluid flow resumes.’’

       

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