Underdrive pullies FTL

DLF, we have that same exact kit you have pictured, but that little ball bearing bushing thing is ALL SCREWED UP. They are built cheaply and the force required to pull that balancer on is a lot! Dan has all kinds of idiot young people (he doesn't have to pay them as much) come and work at the shop and somebody trashed it trying to use it.

Even it worked correctly, I wouldn't trust it was pulled on all the way without tapping a socket to see if the balancer moves.

Now that tool Marcus just bought looks MUCH better built! I wouldn't mind having one of those!
 
DLF, we have that same exact kit you have pictured, but that little ball bearing bushing thing is ALL SCREWED UP. They are built cheaply and the force required to pull that balancer on is a lot! Dan has all kind of idiot youngsters come and work at the shop and somebody trashed it trying to use it.

Even it worked correctly, I wouldn't trust it was pulled on all the way without tapping a socket to see if it moves.

Yup, the bearing is definitely the weak link in the kit, I've had to repair it more than once.

But, I've installed more balancers than I can count with it, without any issues.

I do however, always use ARP balancer bolts, and after tightening them to 96 Lb-Ft, I know that they are properly seated.
 
Yup, the bearing is definitely the weak link in the kit, I've had to repair it more than once.

But, I've installed more balancers than I can count with it, without any issues.

I do however, always use ARP balancer bolts, and after tightening them to 96 Lb-Ft, I know that they are properly seated.

I'm not trying to be difficult, but I have tightened them to over 100 ft/lbs and still had them move when tapped. I'm just sayin'.....

That picture you see is the result of one of them before I started tapping the socket to see if it moved (and it was over 100 tightened).
 
I'm not trying to be difficult, but I have tightened them to over 100 ft/lbs and still had them move when tapped. I'm just sayin'.....

That picture you see is the result of one of them before I started tapping the socket to see if it moved (and it was over 100 tightened).

I understand, as they say, YMMV. ;)
 
DLF, we have that same exact kit you have pictured, but that little ball bearing bushing thing is ALL SCREWED UP. They are built cheaply and the force required to pull that balancer on is a lot! Dan has all kinds of idiot young people (he doesn't have to pay them as much) come and work at the shop and somebody trashed it trying to use it.

FWIW, I just ordered a new INA D7 Thrust Bearing to replace the cheap one in my kit. With a 3+ ton dynamic load capicity, it should do the job just fine. Dan could do the same.
 
Wow...

If you have an extra hand, get under the bell housing and use a flat head screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning.

Had my bro do this while I put the 1/4 turn on a new TTY bolt after installing me UDPs.
 
Wow...

If you have an extra hand, get under the bell housing and use a flat head screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning.

Had my bro do this while I put the 1/4 turn on a new TTY bolt after installing me UDPs.

What I did on my Thunderbird (I'm not sure the Mark is the same way, but it should be), was there is an access hole (to get to the torque converter nuts) with a rubber plug in it on the driver's side of the engine; I just put a long socket on that nut and you can't turn the engine because it gets caught on the block.

That makes it easy to hold the engine while loosening/tightening pulley bolts/nuts. No extra hand needed! :)
 
FWIW, I just ordered a new INA D7 Thrust Bearing to replace the cheap one in my kit. With a 3+ ton dynamic load capicity, it should do the job just fine. Dan could do the same.

Nice! Thanks for the link; I'll have to let Dan know about it.

BTW, I received this bearing. It's much, much better than the one that came with the kit.
 

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