unable to get spark plug socket on plugs :(

Do note that the V6 takes different coils (not just boots) than the V8. I don't know if anyone has tried an Accel version on the

Hmm well that's excellent longevity if he's had them on since 2007 with no issues, I'm guessing if the accel ones for the 4.6L are compatable with the 3.9L V8 and the oem 3.9L coils are not compatable with the 3.0L then the accel V8 coils would not work, however maybe ones designed for the 3.8 or 4.0L v6 mustang might? The last V6 mustang I owned (a 2000 model year) used coil packs but I'm sure someplace along the line they switched the v6 over to COP ignition.

I take it I would have to change the boots on the COPS to allow them to fit
 
In case you missed it, modifications are required to use the Accels on the V8. The wiring has to be reversed, boots changed, and hold downs rigged, and the coil covers do not fit unless the coil connector is altered. I don't know if any of this would apply to the V6. I have over 100K miles on the last set of OEM coils that I put in my 04 so far. I have about 60K on the last set on my 06, so far. I am not yet convinced that the Accels are any improvement over the newest OEM coils.
 
Cam sensors?

Do note that the V6 takes different coils (not just boots) than the V8. I don't know if anyone has tried an Accel version on the V6.

I've managed to extract the last stuck spark plug, and am now looking to remove the valve covers to clean them thoroughly, check the gaskets etc. before reassembly

I am having trouble with pulling the valve covers, seems they are getting stuck at what I presume are the cam sensor on each side at the front of the valve covers, they will lift slightly and then bind on the boot around the sensors, are these sensors required to be removed from the valve covers prior to taking the covers off? and if so what is the proper way to remove them?
 
Those are not the cam sensors!
Those are the VCT solenoids that control intake valve timing. You unplug the electrical connector, then you pull up and remove the seal around them (I suspect this is what you are calling the boot.). You may have to pry under the lip of the seal with a flat blade to get them started coming off.

Note that the VCT seal does not come with the gasket set.
 
Those are not the cam sensors!
Those are the VCT solenoids that control intake valve timing. You unplug the electrical connector, then you pull up and remove the seal around them (I suspect this is what you are calling the boot.). You may have to pry under the lip of the seal with a flat blade to get them started coming off..

Thank you once again for the advice, I managed to get the passenger side off, I haven't taken the drivers side off yet, still have to remove what I believe to be the cylinder head temp sensor? anyways I can see now on the side I have off how the solenoids work with the cam phasers and how they are attached

Is there any other items I should be replacing while I have this stuff off the engine? I am trying to locate the proper PCV valve, looks like I may have to go to a dealership for it as the local parts stores show no listing for it, changing plugs and coils as well
Note that the VCT seal does not come with the gasket set
 
...Note that the VCT seal does not come with the gasket set

Edit - scratch that, not sure what the V6 VCT seal number is...

I know that 2W9Z-6A545-AA is the correct number for the V8 VCT seal, two needed.
 
Edit - scratch that, not sure what the V6 VCT seal number is...

I know that 2W9Z-6A545-AA is the correct number for the V8 VCT seal, two needed.

Is there a special socket required to remove the cylinder head temp sensor from the drivers side or just a 19mm deep socket?
 
Is there a special socket required to remove the cylinder head temp sensor from the drivers side or just a 19mm deep socket?

No special tool, but do note that you will have to replace it with a new one.

NOTE: The tip of the CHT contacts the cylinder head at the bottom of the hole. When removed, it will be slightly crushed. This is a normal condition.
Remove and discard the CHT.
To install, tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
The CHT is not to be reused. Always install a new sensor.
 
No special tool, but do note that you will have to replace it with a new one.

NOTE: The tip of the CHT contacts the cylinder head at the bottom of the hole. When removed, it will be slightly crushed. This is a normal condition.
Remove and discard the CHT.
To install, tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb-ft).

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
The CHT is not to be reused. Always install a new sensor.

Can you advise me of the part number? the plastic connector for the harness to plug into is cracked anyways so I'd feel better replacing it for sure if it is still available, my 19mm deep socket is stepped part way so doesn't fit over the CHT properly will have to find another
 
I have no experience with aftermarket on that part.
 
to be dead honest, I've seen way to many problem with aftermarket parts not working on the LS. its just not worth the trouble to not get it fixed right the first time. really not a big fan of having to make the same repair again shortly after and that's even if it works at all. at least for me it's not worth the roll of the dice.
 

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