Ugh, ball joint.

R

Rushsampson

Active LVC Member
Joined
May 31, 2014
Messages
109
Reaction score
13
Location
Waterville
So state inspection time rolled around for me again, and it appears as though the lower ball joint on the passenger side has got some play in it. I can't quite hear it just yet, but I understand the danger of operating this design with a loose ball joint. So that's not going to happen. I've got a replacement on the way from rock auto, and a day slated to do it, and a ball joint press and all, so here's really what I'd like to know if I can - is there anything special I should know before I start getting into this? Any pro tips, or anything that might things a bit more tolerable? I've pressed out many a ball joint, but never on an MN-12/FN10. I also have a factory shop manual for the car, but I know all too well that misnomers exist, and some just plain leave out things sometimes. I appreciate any input, thanks guys!
 
It's easier and about the same price to just replace the entire arm.
 
soduka said:
It's easier and about the same price to just replace the entire arm.
Click to expand...

Yeah, others have told me this, but of course, only after I had purchased the ball joint seperate. So it goes, I guess, live and learn. So I'm going to end up pressing the old one out of my existing LCA. The bushings are good right now, but I'm sure a time will come in the near future where I will just be replacing both LCA's at one time, and the ball joints with them. The uppers have already been done last year, Moog parts, and they're holding up really well. The car doesn't see any salt, and therefor knows no rust, so I'm hoping that the ball joint should come out pretty well. Much unlike the ball joint on my '96 Ranger, which were like stone. It was miserable, but I still managed uppers and lowers in a days time.
 
I put moog on my 95 and they're ok. I had Bruce put Rabestos on my CE, and he liked them, and said they fit well and easy to do.
 
You happen to have a part number for Raybesto lowers? Mine are starting to squeak.
 
Just did this. The moog bj is oversized for a better fit. Made it really hard to get on took 3 of us.
 
I hate the Mark's suspension setup. Its designed to fail.

MOOG was my preferred brand. (about $50 each side, complete)
RK8783 - right
RK8784 - left

I have been hearing good things about Dorman also.

Raybestos may not be in production anymore, but Rock Auto has a few. And they are cheap with grease fittings (pro model) Technically these are t-bird parts:

5071397 (6 remain)
5071398 (2 remain)

It does not specify which side! Better buy both! :)
 
Ohhhh, that is cheap. Ugh, I'm broke right now but I really need lowers. Starting to squeak. Hmmm.
 
jbelcourt said:
Ohhhh, that is cheap. Ugh, I'm broke right now but I really need lowers. Starting to squeak. Hmmm.
Click to expand...
I have the #'s somewhere, but, I did some dealing with Bruce, and I think there was 2 Raybestos BJ's. When you get some dough, check with him. Alex has his lift tied up, so he most likely still has them
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 267 (members: 0, guests: 267)
Back
Top