U-Joint Removal and Replacement For a First Timer: Questions

slowmark95

slowmark95

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Hello,
So i am almost positive the u-joints are bad on my 95 so i would like to replace them. I already bought the parts, i am just unsure of the best way to do this.:confused: Do i have to remove the drive shaft and drop the gas tank, or is there an easier way? How do i remove the bearing caps to pull the u-joint? Its pretty cold out so i want to spend as little time out there as i can. :slam
 
I have never done it. Have been told it is very easy if the drive shaft is not in the car and a total PIA with it in the car..
 
how do you change u-joints with the shaft in the car??? you gotta drop the exhaust, drop the tank, tank the driveshaft out. you should have it balanced while you have it out, or better yet switch to a one piece driveshaft.
 
I did mine in car with exhaust dropped. The front u-joint was out so I could slide the shaft forward to do the rear. Then I went back to the front. I did not think it was hard to do at all. I used C-Clamps to do my joints, maybe that helps. Sockets from a socket set to help press where the lip and clamp meet (since the caps are sunk in). Never dropped the tank.
 
unity said:
I did mine in car with exhaust dropped. The front u-joint was out so I could slide the shaft forward to do the rear. Then I went back to the front. I did not think it was hard to do at all. I used C-Clamps to do my joints, maybe that helps. Sockets from a socket set to help press where the lip and clamp meet (since the caps are sunk in). Never dropped the tank.
Click to expand...

That sounds more like it to me :D
How do i remove the bearing caps?
 
I remove the c-clip/spring things with a needle nose - if you are lucky. What I usually do is bring out the c-clamp first. Then I use a socket to push on one side inward. This moves it just enough to get the retaining clip out if its stuck. What the heck is that called anyway?

When one side is free of the clip, I just use the clamp/socket to push on the other side to get it through and then the cap can come off.

I hope that makes sense. But if you do the front first you should be able to get the rear one without too much trouble. I know my exhaust was dropped in the front only, still on the rear hangers. And I know the tank was in place. There is not much room to work the rear, but since you can now move the shaft forward for installation its much easier.

Another method that some have done is to unbolt the shaft to diff interface. There are several bolts. I think they are torx type. I almost tried that method but could not get the bolts free.
 
I went and rented a ball joint tool from Autozone and did my rear joint in the car.
CIMG1802.jpg
 
Vibration wound up being that my tailshaft bolts were loose on my transmission the entire time :mad:
CIMG8030.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for the ideas and help. I will try and do this latter in the week.
I'll post back with how it goes.
 
2002WRXSTi said:
Vibration wound up being that my tailshaft bolts were loose on my transmission the entire time :mad:
Click to expand...

I had that happen on my Thunderbird. It seems that this problem is more common than you'd think! And I lost A LOT of tranny fluid before I figured out the prob and fixed it (I thought the rear seal had went until I got it on a lift).
 
So I got the car up on jack stands, lowered the front of the exhaust, marked drive shaft position, and removed the u-joint clips on the front joint. I took a socket that fit in the clip hole and put a few extensions on it and beat it with a hammer. The thing didn't even move a bit. I became very frustrated, so i put everything back together. I had enough room to get at it, just wasn't able to get the old u-joints out.
 
Get a c-clamp or borrow the correct tool from a parts store. A clamp will generate much more force than hammer.
 
I will have to say that beating on a ujoint either front or rear in the car is not good for vibration situations, that is the first thing.

If you have never done a ujoint replacement before I would suggest one of two things, one take the drive shaft out of the car so you can learn how to do it on a bench. Easier to understand and learn rather than laying on your back.

Or, have someone with you to teach you how to do it in the car.

It really is a simple thing to do once you have done one or watched someone do it. I have been doing ujoints in cars since I was 10 years old but I was taught how to do it and never once did I ever beat on one with a hammer to get it in or out.

You stated you were chasing a vibration and then you were beating on the drive shaft??? Think about that, does it make any sense???
 
Some penetrating oil may help. But I would not drive it with that stuff in place since it may liquify the bearing grease.

You may also consider heating up the knuckles. Not too much! Just enough to make them expand so the caps come out easier. Which means quick heat, quick work. If the whole package heats up then you are back to square one.
 
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