Typical Engine Temps

[oddball]

So, below is one of the reasons I hate non-specific gauges.

I replaced the chain tensionners on my '02 v8 (150k miles) two weeks ago. While it was apart, replaced the a/c compressor (was failing), sway bar bushings (clunking), covert to electric fan (just cuz), replaced the degas bottle, thermo housing, outlet, crossover pipe, water pump (metal impeller), rad hoses and DCCV. The cooling work and DCCV were preemptive. Filled her back up with 50/50 coolant/water and water wetter. On first fire-up I couldn't get it to bleed well, so shot up to 240. Swapped back to the old thermostat, refilled, bled perfectly. New thermo appears fine (opens/closes on the bench), just expect I had a big bubble somewhere and didn't have the appropriate patience at midnight that night.

Ambient temp is in the 80's in Texas right now.

Driving around town, OBD scanner indicates she runs around 185 +/- 5 degrees all the time, even with a/c on. Excellent!
On the freeway, she gets and stays hotter the faster I go. 80 mph = 210+. Full throttle bursts raise the temp higher and it seldom comes down. It'll actually cool when I get off the freeway. I've seen 220.

Worrisome thing is that so far the range from 185 to 220 equates to "horizontal" on the idiot gauge.

Anyone have experience to share? 35 degrees over thermostat doesn't sit well with me. Unfortunately, I didn't take any notes on how it ran before all the work, so can't compare. Seems my other options include faulty water pump (argh! damn thing was expensive!), air in system, clogged rad (didn't think to inspect it when everything was torn down). Also the possibility of paranoia.

Thanks!

 

[dannoltie]

So, below is one of the reasons I hate non-specific gauges.

I replaced the chain tensionners on my '02 v8 (150k miles) two weeks ago. While it was apart, replaced the a/c compressor (was failing), sway bar bushings (clunking), covert to electric fan (just cuz), replaced the degas bottle, thermo housing, outlet, crossover pipe, water pump (metal impeller), rad hoses and DCCV. The cooling work and DCCV were preemptive. Filled her back up with 50/50 coolant/water and water wetter. On first fire-up I couldn't get it to bleed well, so shot up to 240. Swapped back to the old thermostat, refilled, bled perfectly. New thermo appears fine (opens/closes on the bench), just expect I had a big bubble somewhere and didn't have the appropriate patience at midnight that night.

Ambient temp is in the 80's in Texas right now.

Driving around town, OBD scanner indicates she runs around 185 +/- 5 degrees all the time, even with a/c on. Excellent!
On the freeway, she gets and stays hotter the faster I go. 80 mph = 210+. Full throttle bursts raise the temp higher and it seldom comes down. It'll actually cool when I get off the freeway. I've seen 220.

Worrisome thing is that so far the range from 185 to 220 equates to "horizontal" on the idiot gauge.

Anyone have experience to share? 35 degrees over thermostat doesn't sit well with me. Unfortunately, I didn't take any notes on how it ran before all the work, so can't compare. Seems my other options include faulty water pump (argh! damn thing was expensive!), air in system, clogged rad (didn't think to inspect it when everything was torn down). Also the possibility of paranoia.

Thanks!

my 02 lse v8 runs with the idiot gauge completely horizontal all the time regardless of if its 80 degrees or 50 degrees like it is currently...im sure others will chime in

 

[SoonerLS]

The closest numbers I could find for a temperature range are the "starts to open" and "fully-open" temps for the thermostat; the "fully open" temp is 219*F, so it sounds like your car is within spec.

 

[Black LSE]

I have a Scangauge to watch coolant temp on my 05 V8. On the highway it will run at 200-204 in warm weather. In city traffic it will run right at 220. On a long slow hill in the mountains I saw 228 once.

 

[oddball]

Thanks, guys. Makes plenty of sense, then. Looks like "paranoia" is the winner. I'm too used to my other car ('72 cutlass) where she'd sit right at the thermo temp no matter what, and anything higher than that means something is about to melt.

In related news, I'm hoping to do more work on the 03+ electric fan this weekend. Looks like the signal from the PCM to the 00-02 hydraulic pump isn't simple. Hopefully it's just a slightly different PWM that I can convert to the 03+ PWM. Seems weird to me to use a signal to drive a solenoid, but I'll find out for sure when I borrow a scope from someone.

 

[joegr]

Thanks, guys. Makes plenty of sense, then. Looks like "paranoia" is the winner. I'm too used to my other car ('72 cutlass) where she'd sit right at the thermo temp no matter what, and anything higher than that means something is about to melt. ...

Part of the emissions strategy these days is to run the engines hotter. Some GMs actually turn off the cooling fans when the car isn't moving until the water temperature is around 230. While moving they turn the fan(s) on sooner.

 

[bob380sx]

i see why you got worried. 220 would have scared me enough to pull over and shutter her down. then i would be posting the same thing. glad to know is safe but that still sounds hot to me. on a side note hot is better for emissions but not power. is there a 160 t stat for the ls. seems like you could get a little more aggressive on the tune with a cooler engine temp.