AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
"About LS transmissions
: it depends what he means by doing a jerk. If it's dropping out of gear at low speeds or a full stop and he has to give it a little gas before it'll go then it would cause it to jerk when the tranny reengaged - caused by low fluid. If it stays in gear but either grinds or shifts really hard only sometimes while driving then it's worn servos and the cheapest option is to replace them with modified servos from a guy on LVC. As far as I know a bad solenoid will usually cause it to shift harder and slower than normal but not as hard as a bad servo - any LS 05 or older should have the solenoid, fluid, and filter changed out anyway cuz ford was using bad fluid that would clog the filter and cause the solenoid to overheat until failure. While that's being done, you might as well have the 3-4 spring replaced cuz the part literally costs $5 and takes about 5min additional work to replace if you're already doing a solenoid.
To fill fluid correctly... fill transmission from the center screw-out piece of the drain plug itself until fluid comes back out, start the car and let it warm up at idle then add more fluid, cycle through P-R-N-D5-D4-D5-N-R-P holding each gear for a few seconds and fill it again until fluid comes out, take it for a drive (about a mile) then cycle through all gears again and FINALLY you'll be able to fill it up until fluid comes back out in a steady stream and have it accurately filled. If the fluid is only dripping out then it's still low, it should be like running a faucet. I have never talked to anyone in any shop I had taken my moms LS to when I had it that knew how to do this correctly so I would be surprised if your guy was any different.
Btw, I personally recommend Royal Purple ATF (mercon V compatible) and their HPS line for engine oil. I put their ATF in my moms transmission, power steering, and hydraulic fan. The power steering and hydraulic fan pumps got consistently and significantly quieter, steering was smoother, and I'm convinced that it's basically the only reason the transmission wasn't damaged after it was filled incorrectly and was driven for about 3 weeks while 2.5 quarts low. Also, the mpg went up by 2 overall and the timing chains stopped making noise for almost 3 years when I switched from mobile 1 to royal purple HPS.
This is not correct. It's a sport so you have to have a select shift transmission for it. Additionally, there were updates to the transmission every year so you need a 2002 V8 sport transmission specifically. To make things worse, there was a mid model year update for 02 and I don't know if anything was messed with in the transmission. You'll have to do some research to figure that one out. That said, it's very rare for these transmission to actually fail as opposed to just being in need of a relatively simple fix that mimics the symptoms of something much more serious.
LVC instructions for tranny fluid check.
Transmission Fluid Level Check
Printable View (189 KB)
Special Tool(s)
Rubber Tip Air Nozzle
100-D009 (D93L-7000-A)
Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A)
Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/Injector
307-D465
Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)
Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) with appropriate adapters, or equivalent diagnostic tool
Adapter, Fluid Level and Fill Plug
307-437
Material
Item Specification
MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid
XT-5-QM MERCON® V
Fluid Fill Reference
NOTE: Left side of case shown.
Item Part Number Description
1 — Fluid level
2 7A010 Fluid level tube
3 W704999-S309 Fluid level and fill plug (small) (in-vehicle)
4 7A010 Fluid drain plug (large)
1. 1 Using the diagnostic tool, monitor the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using PID: TFT.
2. Start the vehicle.
3. NOTE: Engine idle speed is approximately 650 rpm. �While proceeding with this procedure, run the engine until the transmission fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F).
4. Move the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage.
5. Place the range selector lever in the PARK position.
6. With the engine running, position the vehicle on a hoist and set it as close to level as possible. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
7. Hold the larger drain plug with a wrench and remove the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.
8. Install the special tool into the pan.
9. NOTE: Prior to filling the special tool with clean transmission fluid, make sure that the canister is clean. �Fill the special tool with clean automatic transmission fluid.
10. Hang the special tool under the vehicle. Position it upright and close to the transmission.
11. Connect the special tools.
* Connect the open end of the fluid hose from the Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/Injector to the Fluid Level and Fill Plug Adapter at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.
12. Apply a maximum of 206.85 kPa (30 psi) to the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose from the special tool. Fluid will immediately start flowing out of the special tool into the transmission fluid pan.
13. Add one pint of transmission pofluid into the fluid pan. Stop the process by releasing the air pressure and removing the air nozzle from the end of the hose.
14. Inspect the fluid level in the special tool. If the fluid drains back into the canister, the transmission is full. If no fluid drains back, more fluid will need to be added. Repeat Steps 12 and 13.
15. Once the transmission is full, place a hand vacuum pump on the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose of the special tool and apply vacuum to the system. This will pull out any extra fluid trapped in the system and direct it into the container.
16. Allow the fluid to drain. Make sure that the fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F). When the fluid comes out as a thin stream or drip, the fluid is at the correct level.
17. Reinstall the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.
* Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
18. Check the operation of the transmission by moving the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage."
: it depends what he means by doing a jerk. If it's dropping out of gear at low speeds or a full stop and he has to give it a little gas before it'll go then it would cause it to jerk when the tranny reengaged - caused by low fluid. If it stays in gear but either grinds or shifts really hard only sometimes while driving then it's worn servos and the cheapest option is to replace them with modified servos from a guy on LVC. As far as I know a bad solenoid will usually cause it to shift harder and slower than normal but not as hard as a bad servo - any LS 05 or older should have the solenoid, fluid, and filter changed out anyway cuz ford was using bad fluid that would clog the filter and cause the solenoid to overheat until failure. While that's being done, you might as well have the 3-4 spring replaced cuz the part literally costs $5 and takes about 5min additional work to replace if you're already doing a solenoid.
To fill fluid correctly... fill transmission from the center screw-out piece of the drain plug itself until fluid comes back out, start the car and let it warm up at idle then add more fluid, cycle through P-R-N-D5-D4-D5-N-R-P holding each gear for a few seconds and fill it again until fluid comes out, take it for a drive (about a mile) then cycle through all gears again and FINALLY you'll be able to fill it up until fluid comes back out in a steady stream and have it accurately filled. If the fluid is only dripping out then it's still low, it should be like running a faucet. I have never talked to anyone in any shop I had taken my moms LS to when I had it that knew how to do this correctly so I would be surprised if your guy was any different.
Btw, I personally recommend Royal Purple ATF (mercon V compatible) and their HPS line for engine oil. I put their ATF in my moms transmission, power steering, and hydraulic fan. The power steering and hydraulic fan pumps got consistently and significantly quieter, steering was smoother, and I'm convinced that it's basically the only reason the transmission wasn't damaged after it was filled incorrectly and was driven for about 3 weeks while 2.5 quarts low. Also, the mpg went up by 2 overall and the timing chains stopped making noise for almost 3 years when I switched from mobile 1 to royal purple HPS.
This is not correct. It's a sport so you have to have a select shift transmission for it. Additionally, there were updates to the transmission every year so you need a 2002 V8 sport transmission specifically. To make things worse, there was a mid model year update for 02 and I don't know if anything was messed with in the transmission. You'll have to do some research to figure that one out. That said, it's very rare for these transmission to actually fail as opposed to just being in need of a relatively simple fix that mimics the symptoms of something much more serious.
LVC instructions for tranny fluid check.
Transmission Fluid Level Check
Printable View (189 KB)
Special Tool(s)
Rubber Tip Air Nozzle
100-D009 (D93L-7000-A)
Vacuum Pump Kit
416-D002 (D95L-7559-A)
Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/Injector
307-D465
Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)
Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) with appropriate adapters, or equivalent diagnostic tool
Adapter, Fluid Level and Fill Plug
307-437
Material
Item Specification
MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid
XT-5-QM MERCON® V
Fluid Fill Reference
NOTE: Left side of case shown.
Item Part Number Description
1 — Fluid level
2 7A010 Fluid level tube
3 W704999-S309 Fluid level and fill plug (small) (in-vehicle)
4 7A010 Fluid drain plug (large)
1. 1 Using the diagnostic tool, monitor the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using PID: TFT.
2. Start the vehicle.
3. NOTE: Engine idle speed is approximately 650 rpm. �While proceeding with this procedure, run the engine until the transmission fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F).
4. Move the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage.
5. Place the range selector lever in the PARK position.
6. With the engine running, position the vehicle on a hoist and set it as close to level as possible. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
7. Hold the larger drain plug with a wrench and remove the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.
8. Install the special tool into the pan.
9. NOTE: Prior to filling the special tool with clean transmission fluid, make sure that the canister is clean. �Fill the special tool with clean automatic transmission fluid.
10. Hang the special tool under the vehicle. Position it upright and close to the transmission.
11. Connect the special tools.
* Connect the open end of the fluid hose from the Fluid Transporter/Evacuator/Injector to the Fluid Level and Fill Plug Adapter at the bottom of the transmission fluid pan.
12. Apply a maximum of 206.85 kPa (30 psi) to the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose from the special tool. Fluid will immediately start flowing out of the special tool into the transmission fluid pan.
13. Add one pint of transmission pofluid into the fluid pan. Stop the process by releasing the air pressure and removing the air nozzle from the end of the hose.
14. Inspect the fluid level in the special tool. If the fluid drains back into the canister, the transmission is full. If no fluid drains back, more fluid will need to be added. Repeat Steps 12 and 13.
15. Once the transmission is full, place a hand vacuum pump on the open end of the vacuum/pressure hose of the special tool and apply vacuum to the system. This will pull out any extra fluid trapped in the system and direct it into the container.
16. Allow the fluid to drain. Make sure that the fluid temperature is between 27°C-49°C (80°F-120°F). When the fluid comes out as a thin stream or drip, the fluid is at the correct level.
17. Reinstall the small (center) fluid level indicating plug.
* Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
18. Check the operation of the transmission by moving the range selector lever slowly through each gear, stopping in each position and allowing the transmission to engage."