Hi guys. Been looking at all of the info here and it helped me with my engine swap on my 2000 ls8. But now I can't find help with my trans issue. I put a 2002 engine in my car that I bought with bad rod. We tooled around in the car till the rod blew out the side. Trans worked fine. Now that the new engine is in the car won't move. It was a little low on fluid and filled it and nothing. it does not show e. it it does show the right gear that it's in but acts like its in park or neutral. Last night I saw some people with trans issues and some helpful hints of trying to reset it by undoing the better from the system. I unplugged it last night and I'm going to head out and try it shortly... Could there be anything else wrong? Could I have the cooler lines on wrong? I know older truck it didn't matter but what about on the newer cars? Could I have messed up the input shaft or tc when sliding the tc back on the front pump? Any ideas or help would be much appreciated... Thank you
transmission wont work after engine swap
- Thread starter qhuff82
- Start date
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
When you installed the TC, was there some space between the flexplate and TC or was it tight? There should have been some room in there, like about 3/8 inch between the flexplate and the TC. It's possible that you didn't engage the trans pump when you put the TC back in, which would cause this. It'll require that you back the trans off a bit from the engine and then spin the TC on the shaft while pushing it on. It should spin a bit, then clunk in a little further. No idea if it's the same on Fords as Chevys but when the TC is not seated correctly on a Chevy trans you can usually slip your hand between the TC and trans case but when it's seated properly there's no room at all.
You can also check to make sure you didn't pinch any wiring harnesses going back to the trans when the engine and trans were bolted together. If you did get it you'll need to check the wires to make sure none were pinched, although I'd think that this would set a code.
You can also check to make sure you didn't pinch any wiring harnesses going back to the trans when the engine and trans were bolted together. If you did get it you'll need to check the wires to make sure none were pinched, although I'd think that this would set a code.
the tc had slipped off the inter spline and I had a time and a half to get it back on.. She slid all the way on and came out just a smidge to bolt on. I know what you mean by how Chevy's are but there's no room to check. It seems to be such a tight fit that it's either going to be on or not. Just tried putting battery back on and still nothing. So changed the input speed sensor on the oil pan and nothing still. Pulled a trans line by the cooler and just a trickle of fluid... Do I have to purge air out of this or is my front pump toast?
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
You did not seat the converter correct. It is not lugged into the front pump. You need to pull trans and reseat converter. You still might have killed the front pump by jamming it up. When trans is bolted to engine you need to check converter "freeplay". This is done after trans and engine are bolts together. You need roughly .100-.125 of space between the converter bolt pads and the flexplate. This is done by pushing the converter to rear of car then measure. Also you could of wiped out the engines crank thrust bearing from jamming trans front pump. STOP RUNNING IT till fixxed.
When we got the tc onto the front pump my aunt was spinning the tail shaft while I was pulling out and trying to slide back on. It slide on easy when it went. We didn't beat on it or try clamping it in with the block trans bolts. If I unbolt the tc and check the play free play and its right then I'm still needing to pull the transmission out and replace the pump. Does that sound like we set the converter wrong?
For some reason my last post didn't post.... We didn't beat the tc on.. My aunt was turning the output shaft while I was pulling the tc back and putting it in till it seated all the way in or I guess I thought. If I just pull the tc nuts off and see if it has the .100-.125 thousands of play then I set it right? And that would mean pump bad? So more or less either way I have to pull it... Should I check free play or just pull?? Or just get a used one and put it in? Thank you
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm gonna hope for the best for you that you didn't break anything yet, and suggest that you try reseating the TC all the way in. They'll fool you into thinking they are seated when they aren't. When you think you have it in place hold up on the center, push in and give it another full spin and I'll bet that it will clunk in one more. Then it'll be seated. If it's still not working it'll be time to tow it to a shop. As Mark said, while there should be no room between the trans housing and the TC, there SHOULD be about enough space to almost slide a finger between the flexplate and the TC bolts. If there wasn't then this is positively the problem. Hopefully it'll still be the only problem.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
The front pump is the only thing that pumps the fluid thru the trans. If you are not getting fluid pumping out of your trans cooler lines you know 100% the front pump is not working. I would do as you said recheck converter freeplay and go from there. If not right you can loosen all bellhousing bolts so one/two threads on bolts still holding trans on. Take some cloths pins and space between engine trans then snug up bolts so trans is square to engine. This will free up converter and allow you to spin it while pushing back to seat it. Then recheck freeplay.
Well I'm gonna get on it as soon as I get home. We both totaled our trucks out a fee weeks ago and were borrowing one truck now and have only been able to replace the one. Figured this would replace mine. So thanks for the help guys. Is there an easy way to do this or am I going to be dropping the whole thing back out? Or just drop down a bit and tilt to the rear? Thanks again for the help guys.
check to make sure the plug that goes to the transmission is all the way in.... I had the same problem with mine thought it was in becasue the bolt got tight but it was hitting something. perventing it from going all the way to the bottom and making a good connection
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
None of that will effect trans fluid flow. Only pump. Just wanted to put that out there.
Yup I figured that... I'm pretty sure I didn't seat the tc right. I have parts of the fly wheel that looks like it rubbed the block a bit. So I'm sure mark is right about not seating the converter right. I started getting the exhaust and driveshaft off so I'm hoping tomorrow I can have it out and try to set the converter right and then put it back in and hope for the best. Thank you ls monk... That would have been a good thing to check off the bat.
Right on the Mark
Dedicated LVC Member
Good luck hope it works for you! Just make sure when you reassemble you make sure you have conv freeplay. I think this lesson will stay with you for the rest of your life.
Sapperfire
Dedicated LVC Member
Why wouldnt you install the TC like you would on a rwd car? Just push the TC while spinning until it drops as far as it'll go into the trans
I don't get why you'd hold the output shaft, just curious. I've yet to do a trans in an LS
I don't get why you'd hold the output shaft, just curious. I've yet to do a trans in an LS
Got it out and checked and it looks like I just toasted the front pump. There's some gauling on the tc but nothing in the fluid and the tc. Had a guy that did trannys for 18 years and stopped in 97 with me. And the skinny on it is just a front pump. Has anyone done the pump flow control valve?? Is it worth it?