Transmission Slow to Engage Reverse

Rivers

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On Friday night, a girl I talk to asked me what I would do if my Lincoln ever became undriveable (I had apparently neglected to tell her about my experiences with ball joints and broken timing chain tensioners and the fun my dad and I had fixing them). I began to tell her "that won't happen. the only thing that could now go wrong is the tran-." I stopped myself and knocked on wood 3 times.

Sunday night my 01 V8 began to have a slow engage in reverse.

I took it to one shop the next day where of course, after a free diagnosis, there were no definite answers and the solution was for a rebuild which would cost anywhere from $1650-2650, depending on how bad the damage was.

The shop I took it to yesterday & today said the car was not low on fluid, but did have burned fluid. They flushed and replaced it, the filter, and cleaned the pan for $150 (no mention of any shavings in the pan). The shop owner said that the service would likely not solve the problem, but would be credited towards me if I later opted for a rebuild, for which he quoted me $1700-1900, and mentioned I could make payments and have no interest if I pay it off in 90 days. He said he wouldn't want to throw a $300 dollar part like a solenoid at it only for it to not be the problem.

Now on here, after doing more reading. It seems like plenty related problems have been solved by changing the solenoid or pcm, and that suggested rebuilds were often not necessary. But I noticed in these threads that problems with shifting are different than mine, which only has a delayed reverse (and a somewhat hard shift when going from P-D).

Any advice? (I did try searching my symptoms on here but haven't found much )Thanks in advance for reading, and apologies for the long read.

Sidenote: After the service today, the car shifts much smoother. It wasn't bad before, but it did have a noticeable difference in how it went from 2nd-3rd that is now gone.
 
well you almost guaranteed to get three different responses here...



first is solenoid pack.

second is PCM repair

third is unhook the battery, reconnect and drive it.
 
well you almost guaranteed to get three different responses here...



first is solenoid pack.

second is PCM repair

third is unhook the battery, reconnect and drive it.


:cool: not going to lie. i read the third one somewhere on here and tried before anything.


Thank you. I'm going to read through that shortly. Apparently my searching wasn't as thorough as I had believed.
 
:cool: not going to lie. i read the third one somewhere on here and tried before anything.

well at least that one was free and it didn't waste any of your money. however most (well, all but one) would agree that was a long shot and very unlikely to fix the problem.

plus I figured by throwing that one in there, we wouldn't have to listen to that one go on and on swear about how much money people "wasted" actually getting their car fixed. there is only so much a person can listen to coming out of someones man pleaser...
 
From the symptoms, I would say that replacing the solenoid assembly or repairing the PCM are your best odds for success, but if the fluid was really burnt, you may now have actual internal transmission problems too.
 
clean maf? consistent use of correct octane fuel? last time you ran injector cleaner?
lots of 'free' basic maintenance that can fix reverse engagement issues.
youre shift solenoid aint broke. your pcm aint broke. trust that you would have significantly greater issues if either of them were.

gotta love some of the responses: "my 'bad coils' only fried the part of my pcm that controls my tranny" ...right.
 
aww look the resident 'i-badass' is scared to type my scween name...
 
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dont even know why you are in here, he already reset the PCM and it didn't help him like you swear is all it ever needs.




Somebody keeps saying "Bettlejuice"........

I'm sorry, I'll stop leaving the food out and maybe the trolls will stay under the bridges...
 
Somebody keeps saying "Bettlejuice"........

Rivers, slow/delayed P-R-D (etc.) engagements are the classic solenoid pack symptom.
 
when is the last time you replaced all of the coils at once OP?
one bad one will be enough to fck up your your R engagement.
 
"dont even know why your in here, he already reset the PCM and it didn't help him like you swear is all it ever needs."
you still cant read guy... i never 'swore is all it ever needs' either.. keep guessin tho.

'i dont know why youre here you mr butt head hehe' 7.9k posts and half are worthless unfunny attempts at potty humour..
'im gonna let everyone know that i blocked jrand every time he posts so i can have a bigger post count... bc a bigger post count means i have a bigger PEE PEE. hehe butthead hehe' 'troll' hehe
 
^ child much?

I said I wouldn't BUT I must ...

jrand types:
"gotta love some of the responses: "my 'bad coils' only fried the part of my pcm that controls my tranny" ...right."

directly followed by:
clean maf? consistent use of correct octane fuel? last time you ran injector cleaner?
lots of 'free' basic maintenance that can fix reverse engagement issues.


Right! .. let's clean the MAF, make sure the octane is as recommended and possibly some fuel cleaner <--- this is going to fix a slow reverse transmission engagement?!?!?!

What about the burned ATF that came out of the OP's transmission, how do we fix that? with means of disconnecting the battery cable and performing the ever so popular jrand clear KAM parm. & correct relearn drive cycle procedure.


Seriously ... let me Google a pic of a black kettle with respect to "gotta love some of the responses"




now we sit back and await the "little rig" chanter. Ugh, I really shouldn't have ... same old, same old.

<useless garbage really!>
 
well, littlerig, the tranny shop's diagnosis and statements were unverified if i remember/read correct. was there really burned fluid or was that a lie to get his $2k? we will never know. he also said that the 'slow engagement' was not really even an issue, it was basically just 'different than before'... so yes all of those things i mentioned can and do affect R engagement. hell, A/C on vs A/C off can affect R engagement... he even said himself that the issue really isnt even an issue, so calling it a true 'harsh engagement' and throwing parts at it sounds highly unjustified IMO. theres zero other notable symptoms to this alelged 'cataclysmic parts failure'... hmm i doubt it. something mild is a touch out of spec/dirty and that is all. im sure 99% of ppl who replaced a shift solenoid or pcm per advice given here wasted money.
wah im gonna block you then unblock you wah
 
OK wise-wah-man! tell me this, my 01 has begun this season to do a little rough engagement into 5th, not an excessive bang but a rather light thump, doesn't slip or anything. in addition to that, it also seems to prematurely want to slip into 5th while cruising, as in light on the pedal. I refer to it as it seems lazy. wants to slip into 5th too early for my liking or as previous season.

So what wonder magical solution from the books of jrand-wah-world would you recommend? Should I perhaps as some fuel additives, with the A/C on or off? Do I fix it by disconnecting the battery terminals and cleaning the MAF sensor? Seriously what magic solution do you have for me to fix this part where the servo bore possibly has worn out thus not holding the required shift point pressures? Hmmm? Maybe some hi-octane fuel would fix this for me, you suggest?

Jrand, parts wear out Bud, these are aging vehicles, they get to a certain mileage and stuff needs replacing, simple as that, no battery disconnect & relearn is going to fix hardware issues. Plenty on LVC have replaced shift solenoid and immediately reported that it resolved the harsh shift issues, many have also come to the conclusion that the servo bore wears out and thus is unable to provide the correct amount of pressure for shift points, thereby needing a reman or the servo bore fix kit. (shop would have to do it anyhow).

I just don't get this mentality of yours of always suggesting that others are wasting their money because all LS issues according to you are misdiagnosed and could be corrected with simply MAF cleaning, Fuel injector cleaner or other strange non-related jrand clearing the KAM parms tricks.

Hardware is hardware, you can't fix all with a Fn magic wand Bud. Why don't you get this?
 
man, I feel like if Jrand owned his own transmission shop, he would immediately become a millionaire and would put chain shops like AAMCO out of business for good.

I mean he is just so damn good at fixing them...
 
man, I feel like if Jrand owned his own transmission shop, he would immediately become a millionaire and would put chain shops like AAMCO out of business for good.

I mean he is just so damn good at fixing them...
you literally NEVER read... your comment makes no sense: my pt is 90% of the ppl citing 'tranny issues' in an LS dont even have tranny issues. so NO your comment makes zero sense. a tranny shop who told everyone their tranny isnt broke would not immediately become a millionaire...

yeah lilrig, parts break down, wear out etc... but not regularly in under 100k miles like everyone here is speculating and spouting as fact... ls tranny isnt bad or poorly designed, the software/controllers may be, but not the physical parts. if youre not capable of understanding that everything your tranny does is controlled by a computer that NEVER dumps its caches, NEVER reboots unless physically reprogrammed or reset by user then its just a lost cause for you... sometimes you gotta reboot a computer, its just that simple. and unfortunately the reboot process is completely manual on a shtty ls computer...

and in terms of your 01, ive said it a million times, i dont have a gen1 and have never looked into the specifics in the shopmanuals for one and never will... my 05 is a beater, would never buy a geni.. BUT if youre worried abt going into 5th too soon <i dont quite understand why this would be a huge concern, fwiw> but just put it in d4 and throw it into d5 when youre 'ready'?

rough into 5th on a geni... i dunno about that specific tranny, but on gen ii theres a sensor that is directly related to d4/d5/d4 shifts... been awhile since i looked it up, so dont quote me on it but i know for sure that the sensor is initially set by flipping the lever btwn d4.d5 manually after cruising at a certain speed then accelerating. you gotta do that like 5x in a single drive cycle to set it. i wanna say its: cruise 35mph, flip to d5, accelerate to 45mph, cruise. stop. repeat 5x. ... but depending how long your car has been behaving like that, just doing it might not smooth it out in a timely manner bc the tranny is not in a 'learn phase' like it would be after a battery disconnect. based on your inability to follow directions and lack of attn to detail i wouldnt recommend disconencting your battery for a seemingly mild shift issue...
 
"Based on your inability to follow directions and lack of attn to detail ...."

Incredible you are, really!

There's people in this world that feel the need to belittle others in order to make themselves feel good, you would be such a person. a short comings of sorts.

Anyhow, thank you for the useless garbage. <again> We're done here, nothing new to learn other then you still believe your own crap.
 
Oh brother, troll fencing. Rivers, the PCM is the easier, cheaper of the TWO valid repairs listed. If you're at all handy you can pull the PCM and send it off. The solenoid is difficult to get out due to the tightness of the trans tunnel and it sounds expensive to have a shop do it. For the price a shop would charge to replace that 300 dollar part you may as well go for the full rebuild if that quoted price was the out the door price. Hope it isn't AAMCO though, because you're likely to wind up with a junkyard trans. Also on the pricing, don't let them give you the Lincoln tax. It's the same 5R555 transmission that Ford used in their Explorers and whatnot. This is also why the trans tunnel is so tight and a solenoid swap is so difficult, the trans was designed for vehicles with larger trans tunnels and the Lincoln is really too small a car for it.
 
The only way to fix the shift flares/harsh engagement on the 555's if you have that issue is with new solenoids, resetting the TCM is just so the tranny can re-learn shift patterns after swapping out the solenoids... when you start getting into line pressure loses, it's due to the actual servo bore wear and will require a tear-down to be sleaved, AKA reman. Have a shift kit installed and possibly get into some upgrading of the torq converter and you've hit the home run. Putting in a used transmission from an unknown LS obtained from a scrap yard that put the word "good" on it with yellow paint, is at best wishful thinking, you may get lucky or NOT.

99% of the time, they'll tell you, you need a new tranny at the tune of around 3K, this is a gimmick to empty your wallet.

If you live in the jrand world you'd simply disconnect your battery terminals, perform a sophisticated drive cycle relearn procedure along with some fuel injector cleaner and it would solve all hardware worn out issues.

BTW: you can't actually clear your own Keep-Alive-Memory settings by simply disconnecting and reconnecting the battery terminals, only a dealer with the right tools can properly clear the set parameters. There is also the back-yard trick of running a jumper wire to ground and let it sit for a while, to properly drain out the KAM parms.

... Anyhow, I hate dry old toast, makes for a terrible sandwich, I'm outta here. same old same old ...
 
There is also the back-yard trick of running a jumper wire to ground and let it sit for a while, to properly drain out the KAM parms.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i27X9XEcy2Q

Remember this? Please, specify how you do that, ie disconnect the battery THEN jumper the positive and negative cables together. The way you said it, someone could think you mean to jumper the wires together with the battery in place. Then you get...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SFSSqJkGQs
 
... Please, specify how you do that, ie disconnect the battery THEN jumper the positive and negative cables together. The way you said it, someone could think you mean to jumper the wires together with the battery in place. Then you get...


~ have you been "told" yet today? :p
 
yeah ya dope your inability to pay attn to detail... kinda like how you didnt even comment on/completely ignored the perfect advice i gave you, which is to try and reset the sensor that controls d4-d5-d4 shifting... thats good advice i gave you, but whatever, keep acting dumb. you dont believe it, but go look the sht up. its def true for a genii, probably true for a geni too. check the drive cycle procedure. you never properly set that sensor if you dont do it during initial learn, which you probably didnt, bc the general <wrong> consensus here is to just drive the car like you normally would instead of properly clearing p0000 via a complete drive cycle by following the procedures spelled out in the manuals... most ppl dont normally throw the lever from d4-d5 five times in a single <initial> drive cycle... let alone doing it in subsequent drive cycles...
 

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