Transmission Fluid Flush, is this possible??

Yes, it's possible. Some members here have posted about doing it. Search.

While it's possible, you shouldn't do it. If you accidentally let it run dry while doing this (easy to do), you'll do very expensive damage. The charge for a dealer to do this with the correct equipment is well worth it.

Please note that the LS doesn't have a dip stick, so that complicates things. Also, our magnet is in the pan, not on the drain plug.
 
I did it, although as Joegr mentioned there is not dipstick to refill as you are draining, so I let it run till I saw the fluid slowing down. Cant run it dry. So wound up refilling with 8 quarts, I think dry unit holds 12, so I got most of it and did not run dry. All good.
 
I'm no trans expert, but I seriously doubt the contention that you can't let the trans run dry for a few seconds. The fluid is there primarily for hydraulic reasons. It also provides a cooling function (that's why it goes through a cooler).

There are no cams, pistons, cranks, etc that require constant and perfect lubrication like an engine has. The gears are big and robust. If the trans required perfect lubrication, we would change the transmission fluid every 3-5000 miles just like an engine.

Run it until it starts to sputter, then shut if off. It's in park while you do this, so how many trans parts can be turning anyway?

I've used this method other vehicles (not an LS) and it works great.

Dale

Dale
 
zzpw3x said:
I'm no trans expert, but I seriously doubt the contention that you can't let the trans run dry for a few seconds. The fluid is there primarily for hydraulic reasons. It also provides a cooling function (that's why it goes through a cooler).

There are no cams, pistons, cranks, etc that require constant and perfect lubrication like an engine has. The gears are big and robust. If the trans required perfect lubrication, we would change the transmission fluid every 3-5000 miles just like an engine.

Run it until it starts to sputter, then shut if off. It's in park while you do this, so how many trans parts can be turning anyway?

I've used this method other vehicles (not an LS) and it works great.

Dale

Dale
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Will you buy my new transmission if I follow your guidance and ruin my transmission?

There are little pistons in the valve body. An extremely small burr on one caused a valve body failure on some early '03s. I'll continue to pay the professionals to do the job correctly.
 
I go with the first part of this statement. Try it out, let us know how it works for you.


zzpw3x said:
I'm no trans expert, but I seriously doubt the contention that you can't let the trans run dry for a few seconds. The fluid is there primarily for hydraulic reasons. It also provides a cooling function (that's why it goes through a cooler).

There are no cams, pistons, cranks, etc that require constant and perfect lubrication like an engine has. The gears are big and robust. If the trans required perfect lubrication, we would change the transmission fluid every 3-5000 miles just like an engine.

Run it until it starts to sputter, then shut if off. It's in park while you do this, so how many trans parts can be turning anyway?

I've used this method other vehicles (not an LS) and it works great.

Dale



Dale
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He's a very knowledgable individual, contributes, and has added a lot of value hear actually.

Anyways, I'd advise taking it to the dealer and have them either flush it or drop the pan and replace the fluid and filter. My dealer here in town offers both but prefers to do it the old fashion way. I'm no expert so I took their advice. They mentioned the "flush" might clear all the fluid but it doesn't include a filter replacement and the tech won't have the opportunity to check for metallic stuff in the pan/magnet.
 
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Don't be stupid and run it dry, it will be fine. Even if it doesn't pump out fluid for a second or 2 before the engine is shut down, there is still some oil in the system. It doesn't magically disappear from every surface like it's rubbing alcohol.

The enemy of good enough is better. Some of you have taken it to an extreme. Do you realize that when you change your oil in your engine, it has almost no oil pressure in the system when you restart it? Who runs out to the car to prime the oil pump? Crickets? Have you ever paid attention to the oil pressure guage, and how it takes seconds to show full pressure?

Next thing you guys will start telling me to dip the door hinges in 30W oil.

I've more than once taken my car to the "professionals" and had to correct their crappy work. They are not professionals, they just get paid like one.

Dale
 
zzpw3x said:
Do you realize that when you change your oil in your engine, it has almost no oil pressure in the system when you restart it? Who runs out to the car to prime the oil pump? Crickets? Have you ever paid attention to the oil pressure guage, and how it takes seconds to show full pressure?
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Actually, I prefill my filter to help prevent a dry start. After my oil changes I never get a low pressure idiot light.

Whatever.

Oh yea; without a fill tube how do you accomplish this task?
 
LS4me said:
Actually, I prefill my filter to help prevent a dry start. After my oil changes I never get a low pressure idiot light.

Whatever.
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Good practice, but not required.

LS4me said:
Oh yea; without a fill tube how do you accomplish this task?
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Yea, your right. Once you let it out with th drain plug, it's impossible to refill.:confused:

I'm done.
 
I normally won't get pestered about this but as a young car enthusiast I have to say do whatever floats your boat. If you're going to take the time to work on it yourself, take the little bit of time to do it in a more accepted manner. Yeh it might work, but is it the best way (not saying the dealer is the best way)?

While you're at it throw no name coils in after running it with a flashing cel for a few hundred miles (if it makes it that long), run regular gas, forget to clean/change your air filter, suck the motor oil out of the fill tube, leave the filter on because you don't want to put an arm under there to take it off, don't rotate the tires or get an alignment done, and offset it by throwing stick on hood scoops, fender vents, vinyl, etc.

I understand everyone's situation's different. If you rely on your car as much as some of us around here do, don't try to take the quick and cheap method out, even thought sometimes the cheap and quick method is the right method. If you are worried about the money for repairs then do yourself a favor and sell the car and go buy one of them there econo cars.

Lastly, to answer your question, anything is possible.
 
zzpw3x said:
I'm no trans expert, but I seriously doubt the contention that you can't let the trans run dry for a few seconds. The fluid is there primarily for hydraulic reasons. It also provides a cooling function (that's why it goes through a cooler).
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Sorry, but that's just not quite right.

The cooler is there because ATF looses its lubricating qualities easily when it gets too hot and becomes "burnt". It doesn't actually burn, but it will not perform properly again.

The primary function is hydraulic to force the frictions and steels into each other. However, even when a clutch pack is disengaged, there is still some pressure between the steels and frictions. If the frictions don't have a constant flow of ATF, then they become damaged quickly. With the engine running, all of the packs are disengaged, so a pretty quick flow of ATF is required.

I've done a flush myself on several vehicles, so I don't think its a big deal. The warning is VERY well justified, though. This is not a one person job, because one person has to watch the output, and tell the second person to kill the engine immediately when it starts to slow. Some damage is still possible. It's better to be pumping in new fluid while the old is coming out, but you won't be able to keep up with the flow and will have to change bottles. In my case, I had my wife run the engine for 5 to 10 seconds, then I pumped in a few quarts, repeat until got fresh fluid out (about 12 quarts, which is spot-on).

LS4me: dude, you use the fill hole. Yeesh.
 
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