Torque spec on 2000 LS rear lower control arm

[Newblue]

Hello, Been searching for an hour now but still can't find the torque spec. I have the new rear lower control arm in hand. I first purchased this car as a beater but it has become the go to vehicle, most comfortable of the fleet. Lol

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Broseph]

111 ft/lbs (150Nm) for each of the three bolts.

Rear shock lower bolt = 98 ft/lbs Stabilizer bar link = 35 ft/lbs
^These are only if you follow the service manual disassembly and assembly. Not sure if you can do this job without removing these as I personally haven't done this job

 

[Broseph]

Also, the manual notes to not tighten the lower arm to subframe bolts until vehicle is at curb height or else you risk bushing damage.

 

[joegr]

Also, the manual notes to not tighten the lower arm to subframe bolts until vehicle is at curb height or else you risk bushing damage.

Yes, that part is quite important.

Lower Arm
Removal

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The lower arm bushings are not serviced separately from the lower suspension arm. If the bushings require service, a new lower arm must be installed.

1. With the vehicle in a static, level ground position, remove the hub cap and measure the distance from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender (curb height).

• 
  
  

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt and disconnect the shock absorber and spring assembly from the lower arm.

1. 
   CAUTION: Do not use air tools to remove the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the stabilizer bar link nut.
   
   Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt and disconnect the lower arm.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-subframe bolts and remove the lower arm.

Installation

CAUTION: Do not tighten the lower arm-to-subframe fasteners until the suspension is at curb height. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to the bushings resulting in poor ride quality and handling.

1. Position the lower arm onto the subframe and install new lower arm-to-subframe bolts and nuts. Do not tighten at this time.

1. Connect the lower arm to the wheel knuckle. Install a new lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut and bolt.
   • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).

1. 
   CAUTION: Do not use air tools to install the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while installing the nut on the stabilizer bar link. Tighten the nut to specification using a socket and a torque wrench.
   
   Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower arm. Install a new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
   • Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. Position the shock absorber and spring assembly onto the lower arm. Install a new shock absorber lower bolt.
   • Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).

1. Position a jack stand under the lower arm and raise the suspension until the measurement between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to the measurement taken in Removal, Step 1 (curb height).

• 
  
  

1. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe rear bolt. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe front nut.
   • Tighten to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft).

1. Lower the suspension and remove the jack stand.

1. Install the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

 

[Newblue]

Thank you for the info!! That was what I needed

 

[Broseph]

Yes, that part is quite important.

Lower Arm
Removal

View attachment 828567956 CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The lower arm bushings are not serviced separately from the lower suspension arm. If the bushings require service, a new lower arm must be installed.

1. With the vehicle in a static, level ground position, remove the hub cap and measure the distance from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender (curb height).

• 
  View attachment 828567957

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt and disconnect the shock absorber and spring assembly from the lower arm.

1. View attachment 828567958 CAUTION: Do not use air tools to remove the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the stabilizer bar link nut.
   
   Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt and disconnect the lower arm.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-subframe bolts and remove the lower arm.

Installation

View attachment 828567959 CAUTION: Do not tighten the lower arm-to-subframe fasteners until the suspension is at curb height. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to the bushings resulting in poor ride quality and handling.

1. Position the lower arm onto the subframe and install new lower arm-to-subframe bolts and nuts. Do not tighten at this time.

1. Connect the lower arm to the wheel knuckle. Install a new lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut and bolt.
   • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).

1. View attachment 828567960 CAUTION: Do not use air tools to install the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while installing the nut on the stabilizer bar link. Tighten the nut to specification using a socket and a torque wrench.
   
   Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower arm. Install a new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
   • Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. Position the shock absorber and spring assembly onto the lower arm. Install a new shock absorber lower bolt.
   • Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).

1. Position a jack stand under the lower arm and raise the suspension until the measurement between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to the measurement taken in Removal, Step 1 (curb height).

• 
  View attachment 828567961

1. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe rear bolt. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe front nut.
   • Tighten to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft).

1. Lower the suspension and remove the jack stand.

1. Install the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

Joegr, I'm jealous of your electronic service manual. Better than lugging around a 2 part encyclopedia that is 10lbs each

 

[Newblue]

Just have to figure out how to get the wheel to curb height while on the lift

 

[Broseph]

Yes, that part is quite important.

Lower Arm
Removal

View attachment 828567956 CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The lower arm bushings are not serviced separately from the lower suspension arm. If the bushings require service, a new lower arm must be installed.

1. With the vehicle in a static, level ground position, remove the hub cap and measure the distance from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender (curb height).

• 
  View attachment 828567957

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt and disconnect the shock absorber and spring assembly from the lower arm.

1. View attachment 828567958 CAUTION: Do not use air tools to remove the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the stabilizer bar link nut.
   
   Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt and disconnect the lower arm.

1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-subframe bolts and remove the lower arm.

Installation

View attachment 828567959 CAUTION: Do not tighten the lower arm-to-subframe fasteners until the suspension is at curb height. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to the bushings resulting in poor ride quality and handling.

1. Position the lower arm onto the subframe and install new lower arm-to-subframe bolts and nuts. Do not tighten at this time.

1. Connect the lower arm to the wheel knuckle. Install a new lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut and bolt.
   • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).

1. View attachment 828567960 CAUTION: Do not use air tools to install the nut. Damage to the boot can result.
   
   NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while installing the nut on the stabilizer bar link. Tighten the nut to specification using a socket and a torque wrench.
   
   Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower arm. Install a new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
   • Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).

1. Position the shock absorber and spring assembly onto the lower arm. Install a new shock absorber lower bolt.
   • Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).

1. Position a jack stand under the lower arm and raise the suspension until the measurement between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to the measurement taken in Removal, Step 1 (curb height).

• 
  View attachment 828567961

1. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe rear bolt. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe front nut.
   • Tighten to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft).

1. Lower the suspension and remove the jack stand.

1. Install the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .

Interesting discrepancy on the lower bolt to subframe front nut torque. Is that for the 03-06?

 

[joegr]

Joegr, I'm jealous of your electronic service manual. Better than lugging around a 2 part encyclopedia that is 10lbs each

It's not mine (I have the printed version). It was put online by another forum member. You can find it here: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual -- brought to you by Owlman

 

[joegr]

Interesting discrepancy on the lower bolt to subframe front nut torque. Is that for the 03-06?

Yes, but I don't of anything that changed there from the 1st gen.

 

[Broseph]

Just have to figure out how to get the wheel to curb height while on the lift

Note sure what you mean? You lower the lift and use a jack stand under the lower arm to raise the hub to the same height it was prior to removal. I'm guessing you didn't measure.

Mine is 15.5" from center to lower lip of fender. Just to ball park it for you

 

[Broseph]

It's not mine (I have the printed version). It was put online by another forum member. You can find it here: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual -- brought to you by Owlman

Nice. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Newblue]

Note sure what you mean? You lower the lift and use a jack stand under the lower arm to raise the hub to the same height it was prior to removal. I'm guessing you didn't measure.

Mine is 15.5" from center to lower lip of fender. Just to ball park it for you

I'm afraid if I put a jackstand under one wheel and lower the lift it would want to push the car off of the lift as the spring compresses. It is a two post lift

 

[Newblue]

Doh, I'm getting it now. take it all the way to the ground while leaving the wheel off and setting the stand so it makes the center of the hub at wheel height. We are also talking normal jack stands. I have some of those 70" tall ones made to stabilize vehicles on a lift. That's what I was thinking of. Lol

 

[Broseph]

Doh, I'm getting it now. take it all the way to the ground while leaving the wheel off and setting the stand so it makes the center of the hub at wheel height. We are also talking normal jack stands. I have some of those 70" tall ones made to stabilize vehicles on a lift. That's what I was thinking of. Lol

Ah. Yeah, 70" might be a little overkill. Worst case, if you have large 6x6 pieces of wood or something similar to stack under the arm, that should work. The arm is pretty close to the ground as is, so it wouldn't take much

 

[joegr]

When I had to do this (replace rear lower control arm), I just had jack stands, no lift. I used a floor jack under the arm to raise it. I did all the measurements, but I found that when I lifted the arm to the point that it was just starting to lift the car off the jack stand on that side, it was at the right height.
Note that the same requirement applies for the upper control arm too.

 

[Newblue]

It talks about replacing the hardware in the procedure. Is this required? And if so can other hardware be used?

 

[joegr]

It talks about replacing the hardware in the procedure. Is this required? And if so can other hardware be used?

I think there is a DOT regulation that says suspension hardware can't be reused. That said, since the parts are aluminum, you at least need to replace the Nylocs. The bolts that don't screw into Nylocs have features that keep them from getting loose. Those features are one-time. If you can't get new bolts (I think I got the last two lower shock bolts in the country), at least clean them up good and put some Loctite on them.

 

[Newblue]

Got this done over the weekend. Ended up being an easy job due to the information posted here. Thank you guys! Also took tread depth measurements and realized rears were at 2/32" and fronts were at 3/32". New tires were picked up just need to get them mounted now.