Timing chain/tensioner?

pektel

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Got a call from my shop. The "expensive" shop. They are VERY qualified, very knowledgeable, and I have complete trust in them.

Not too long ago, started the car up in teh morning, and it was running rough, and I could smell raw fuel. The evening before, I had parked the car on an incline, and it did rain during the night, though it wasn't a storm or anything.

Problem didn't go away on it's own. Brought the car in to my first mechanic. He's the most reasonable priced, but doesn't own some of the higher end equipment (the scope for checking coils, for example). He checked compression, which was the same from side to side. He pulled all coils on bank 1 (the bank that is having all the issues), and the car barely ran differently. We tried changing the upstream O2 sensor, to no avail. He checked a couple other things, and called me to tell me that he was out of ideas, and if I wanted to try another shop.

Got a call on Friday from the expensive shop. After their diagnosis, they think it jumped time. Their diagnosis is based on these three factors: low vacuum, bank 1 rich, bank 2 lean. They said they have to pull valve covers to confirm, so I said go ahead.

If the front cover has to come off, I'm not fixing it. At least not now. The car has been paid off for a while, so I'll just put in in the garage and buy something else. I need an SUV anyways.

So, here's to hoping I get to drive it home in a couple days.
 
hmm. i'll be subscribing.
have a 2000 LS V8 with the same symptoms. raw fuel smell, bank 1 lean code, new ish coils, etc.

i also believe it has jumped time, as my brother reports a sound similar to my 4.6 before the timing chain tensioners tighten up. so i think we lost a tensioner.
 
I hear ya buddy... I hope it all works out for ya no matter which way you go... I also payed cash for mine, and this is the longest i've ever owned one particular car at one time...

are you concerned about valve damage or just dont want to mess with fixing it?
 
Strictly dollars and cents. I don't really have reason to believe there's valve damage. There is no typical chain noise like when a tensioner is going to fail, and no other mechanical noises out of the ordinary. The only thing I can think of, if it is a timing issue, is maybe the chain itself stretched and skipped a tooth. But I'm just guessing.
 
crap pektel, that's unfortunate to hear, hope it all works out ok for ya.
I also fear the dreaded tensioner problem, has been on my mind a lot as of lately.
Don't look forward to that problem at all.
 
... Their diagnosis is based on these three factors: low vacuum, bank 1 rich, bank 2 lean. ...

It could also be a large vacuum leak, particularly since you said the compression tested good.
 
Just got another call. Pulled the passenger side valve cover, and the tensioner looks shot. A couple pieces of plastic from it were laying in there.

It wasn't making noise because the plastic where the chain meets the tensioner was not worn through to the metal yet. Going to have them inspect the chain for worn/stretched links, and replace the tensioner, and hope for the best.

Being that they cannot inspect the rest of the timing, they will not warranty the repair. Which I can understand. There is a "right" way and a "budget" way. I'm choosing the latter, as it's an old car. The difference in repair cost (under $500 vs $2800) is expensive insurance.
 
well i have my "dibs" list together other wise...LOL J/K.. Hope it fixes it for ya
 
God man, I have wheel stud lug nut wheel separation and timing chain-
tensioner nightmares these past few weeks. I might need professional help.

Fn BS
 
LOL i know... I rather see you keep it all though (for a little longer anyways :D )
 
Just picked her up :D

Service report says failing secondary tensioner, and the cam timing was off. They reset the timing, changed the tensioner, new VCG that side, checked data, and road tested.

Total Damages:

Parts: 233.92
Labor: 339.00
Sales Tax: 16.08

Grand Total: $589.00

I'm happy. Could've been much worse. And she runs like a top now.
 
Pektel, sweet, got off easy and looks like, in time before catastrophic engine failure.

Question: they did not need to do the drivers side tensioner ? isn't it duplicated on both sides ?
 
pektel:

Question: they did not need to do the drivers side tensioner ? isn't it duplicated on both sides ?
 
pektel:

Question: they did not need to do the drivers side tensioner ? isn't it duplicated on both sides ?

I had the driver's side tensioner replaced about 6 months ago. Maybe longer than that. They aren't codependent between banks. The secondary chain just runs between intake and exhaust cams
 
I had the driver's side tensioner replaced about 6 months ago. Maybe longer than that. They aren't codependent between banks. The secondary chain just runs between intake and exhaust cams

I suspect that the point was that identical parts in the same engine will probably fail at about the same time. Your experience supports that. Anyway, you shouldn't have this problem again.
 
I suspect that the point was that identical parts in the same engine will probably fail at about the same time. Your experience supports that. Anyway, you shouldn't have this problem again.

Ah, maybe I misunderstood what he was asking. In any event, if you're doing one, might as well do the other. There isn't any cost savings to getting them done at the same time, but if I were to do it again, I would've had them both replaced the first time around.
 
Yup Yup, was wondering why only passenger side got done,
if drivers side was done 6mths ago, then that explains it.

thanks!

glad to see it worked out well for you.
I'm keeping a close ear on any chain rattling noise and tensioners on mine.
 

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