Time for Hub Bearings Again

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Rapidtransit

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I did the rear hub bearings on my 2001 LS V8 six years ago with 102,000 miles and now six years later with 208,000 miles, it's time again.
After doing a road trip at higtway speeds, I noticed that the car had a slight wander to it. Just checked it out and found that there was some significant wobble to the rear wheels, the left side worse than the right. The rear toe link bushings are shot and the stabilizer links have severely torn boots.
I've ordered Timken bearings, Moog stabilizer links, Ford toe links and Raybestos hub nuts. I'm not looking forward to this, but Iuckily I have the hydraulic press that I bought when I did the job the first time.
If anyone lives in central New Jersey and needs new hub bearings, now is the time, let me know.
We'll share a pizza and a few laughs.
 
Where in central NJ are you? I don't need to do the bearings but I'm always down to help!
 
I'll have to keep this in mind if my brakes keep warping... GSP exit 130 here
 
It might be a good idea to check that you have a spare axle available in your neck of the woods. I'm glad I did as there was no way I could get a nut back on the old one.
I bought the Timken bearing for the rear as well, and had to replace it less than a year later. Once again it has developed a rumble and I fully expect it to be the driver side (again). This is about what I expected for quality given that the Timken front hub/bearing assemblies are lucky to last 3 years (60,000 miles). I hope they are not the Motorcraft manufacturer for the front hub because that's the brand I tried last time I did the job.
 
OK, let me know when you're going to tackle this job and I'll come assist and then hit the beach :)
 
You guys have any hints for an exhaust shop? My mechanic said Tom's Machine shop in Rahway is pretty good. Kinda odd being across the street from the prison though. Any suggestions? I'm eventually looking for a custom catback
 
JJcool,

Thanks for the offer to help, but there is always something that gets in the way of needed repairs. I just had to replace both mufflers and the next job is the cooling system. Just received all the parts for a full replacement of all plastic components. I'll get to the hub bearings after the cooling system gets done. That's providing nothing catastrophic happens.
 
Trying to make an effort to not start new threads about things that have already been discussed. So my question is for anyone who has done the rear wheel bearing replacement yourself.....where did you locate the "special tool" needed to separate the hub from the axle shaft, or did you use a regular hub puller or something similar. The Advance nearby acted like I was an idiot when I asked if they rented it so any help would be appreciated, Thank You.
 
01V8DubVLS said:
Trying to make an effort to not start new threads about things that have already been discussed. So my question is for anyone who has done the rear wheel bearing replacement yourself.....where did you locate the "special tool" needed to separate the hub from the axle shaft, or did you use a regular hub puller or something similar. The Advance nearby acted like I was an idiot when I asked if they rented it so any help would be appreciated, Thank You.
Click to expand...


I rented mine from pep boys, its a Front Wheel Drive Hub Puller, part # 27037. Ignore that it says front wheel, it works fine. The problem will be actually getting the bearing out, i didn't have a press and had to take it all to a shop after hours of trying.
 
02LincLS said:
It might be a good idea to check that you have a spare axle available in your neck of the woods. I'm glad I did as there was no way I could get a nut back on the old one.
Click to expand...

+10 on that....for anyone who has replaced the half shafts, you got any tips tricks or warnings to pull the differential side out....or is it just pry, rotate and pull?
 
I did one of my rears, I think it may have been for the exact reason 02LincLS did. After getting the axle nut off it was pretty easy out and back in.
 
I had better luck borrowing the puller from AutoZone rather then the one from Advance Auto which I took back. I ended up getting a complete salvaged knuckle rather then replacing the bearing as it was cheaper and quicker to do. You just have to hunt for a low mileage car. So far so good.

Oh, and I'm at exit 100.
 
When it comes time to replace bearings, I feel it's best to use new bearings rather then to use a salvaged knuckle assembly whose history it uncertain.
 
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