This is what happens when you don't align your trans right....

Markviiiedrea

Markviiiedrea

Speed Bump
Joined
Sep 20, 2004
Messages
4,743
Reaction score
168
Location
Bloomington, MN
Some of you might remember this thread....

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=76596


That resulted in installing another flex plate and reassembling everything without checking out the other components......well the rest of the story is I got the car together and running well. Got it back on the ground and took it for a test drive. Got about 500 feet and the front Torque converter seal blew out spilling fluid all down my street. So we towed it home and it sat there for a few weeks till I was done being pissed off at it.

Update:

So this week I cleaned my garage because I wasn’t going to do another transmission R&R in the drive way again and tore into the mark Thursday night. Seeing as I have done this a few times it did not take very long to extract the transmission.

Slowmkviii and I got the Trans out and pulled the converter off and you can see what we found.

The Torque converter is an Edge 10" 2800 stall but since the trans was misaligned due to a chewed up alignment dowel (we are talking about 2 mm misaligned, so not much) it knurled the pump and the end of the TQ shaft.
I have another pump already from a parts transmission so that is no big deal to replace but I had to send the converter out to be rebuilt ($250) with a new shaft. Since there cutting it open they will be losing up the stall to 3200 as well.

Friday I should get the converter back and hopefully next weekend I can finally drive it for the first time in 3 months. Lesson learned DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME IF YOU CANT DO IT RIGHT THE SECONED TIME! I have done about 20 transmission R&R but I was rushing to get this one done by myself before a car show and now I am paying for it. So learn from my mistakes.

IMG_20110819_093227 (Small).jpg


IMG_20110819_093337 (Small) (2).jpg


IMG_20110819_093246 (Small).jpg


IMG_20110819_093316 (Small).jpg
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Some of you might remember this thread....

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=76596


That resulted in installing another flex plate and reassembling everything without checking out the other components......well the rest of the story is I got the car together and running well. Got it back on the ground and took it for a test drive. Got about 500 feet and the front Torque converter seal blew out spilling fluid all down my street. So we towed it home and it sat there for a few weeks till I was done being pissed off at it.

Update:

So this week I cleaned my garage because I wasn’t going to do another transmission R&R in the drive way again and tore into the mark Thursday night. Seeing as I have done this a few times it did not take very long to extract the transmission.

Slowmkviii and I got the Trans out and pulled the converter off and you can see what we found.

The Torque converter is an Edge 10" 2800 stall but since the trans was misaligned due to a chewed up alignment dowel (we are talking about 2 mm misaligned, so not much) it knurled the pump and the end of the TQ shaft.
I have another pump already from a parts transmission so that is no big deal to replace but I had to send the converter out to be rebuilt ($250) with a new shaft. Since there cutting it open they will be losing up the stall to 3200 as well.

Friday I should get the converter back and hopefully next weekend I can finally drive it for the first time in 3 months. Lesson learned DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME IF YOU CANT DO IT RIGHT THE SECONED TIME! I have done about 20 transmission R&R but I was rushing to get this one done by myself before a car show and now I am paying for it. So learn from my mistakes.
Click to expand...

Kid across the street did the same exact thing. Rush and in the dark he slapped his C6 behind the 351. Ate up the pump and the brand new B&M 3000 converter.
 
That is why you always make the trans touch the engine with no bolts. If they will not slip together figure out why because there is a problem
 
This is why you don't rush when working on cars, and double check everything to make sure it's done properly before slapping tires to pavement...
 
Wow... thanks for the tip. I will make sure to fully seat the trans whenever I do my converter and gear
 
Stangman said:
Wow... thanks for the tip. I will make sure to fully seat the trans whenever I do my converter and gear
Click to expand...

What everyone has to check is converter clearance. Once everything is together and no bolts or nuts on converter you push converter back into the trans and measure the space between the converter pads and the flexplate. This measurement rule of thumb should be .125. You don't want more or less then this #. So say you push converter back and now get a gap of .250 between pads and flexplate. You will need to make,get .125 washers(spacers) to put inbetween pads and flexplate.
 
Right on the Mark said:
What everyone has to check is converter clearance. Once everything is together and no bolts or nuts on converter you push converter back into the trans and measure the space between the converter pads and the flexplate. This measurement rule of thumb should be .125. You don't want more or less then this #. So say you push converter back and now get a gap of .250 between pads and flexplate. You will need to make,get .125 washers(spacers) to put inbetween pads and flexplate.
Click to expand...

Yeah and make sure they all weigh the same or you could have a nice mysterious harmonic vibration :confused:
 
I did the same thing in my drive way to my 1975 Mach 1 in the late 70's. Fortunately it locked up enough it wouldn't start. I called a transmission shop and they told be happy it didn't start and to pull it back out and put it in right. Redid it and everything work. Lucked out.
 
Right on the Mark said:
What everyone has to check is converter clearance. Once everything is together and no bolts or nuts on converter you push converter back into the trans and measure the space between the converter pads and the flexplate. This measurement rule of thumb should be .125. You don't want more or less then this #. So say you push converter back and now get a gap of .250 between pads and flexplate. You will need to make,get .125 washers(spacers) to put inbetween pads and flexplate.
Click to expand...


I never had that issue, there was the correct gap in between the converter and flex plate, and everything spun nicely. It was just that 2mm gap up on the driver side dowel pin that made it all fubar. When I installed it the first time all the bolts ran in just fine, nothing was forced.

The Trans wasn’t to hard to get out this last time plus I kind of wanted to bump the stall up anyway so this gives me that excuse. The seconded time around the dowel was ground down nice and smooth.
 
Markviiiedrea said:
I never had that issue, there was the correct gap in between the converter and flex plate, and everything spun nicely. It was just that 2mm gap up on the driver side dowel pin that made it all fubar. When I installed it the first time all the bolts ran in just fine, nothing was forced.

The Trans wasn’t to hard to get out this last time plus I kind of wanted to bump the stall up anyway so this gives me that excuse. The seconded time around the dowel was ground down nice and smooth.
Click to expand...

Your 2mm comes out to .080 which is ATON. You want to be within .010 runout. Plus my write up was for all PEEPS not just you. Now all know how and what needs to be checked.
 
I know, i was just saying that it was small and hard to catch till the flex plate broke.

Now I have to find a way to stand my trans on the tail shaft and replace the pump.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 578 (members: 0, guests: 578)
Back
Top