Think this complete rear would be a safe bet?

Kumba

Kumba

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I need to rebuild the suspension. Rear control arms by themselves would be in the $800 ball park.

Then I found this via the facebook group: http://huntsville.craigslist.org/pts/5088347630.html

Think it's better to roll the dice on the above, or just buy new arms? I emailed the guy and asked him how the rubber and seals look and he said the seals all look good but the dust boots look cracked. I can find some sort of universal dust boot to shove over the ball joints but not sure if I should trust the rest or not.
 
id go with new stuff.. probably end up having to replace something in a few months after you throw that all on and then have to get another alignment. care to share a link to the universal dust boots? ive got one thats cracked up front. it makes some racket up there but yanking/pulling/etc on the tire doesnt show any play so im holding off on the arm/balljoint combo

on similar lines, has anyone tried control arms from company called 'dorman'? amazon/advanceauto has em for like half the price of moog or motorcraft. my ls my a beater, so name-brand parts arent necessary unless theres no other alternative. TIA
 
not going to lie, if you don't, I just may... I'm pretty sure I've got some problems with my rear sub frame, I've still got to check it out but I'm pretty sure at least the front two sub frame bushings may be shot

that's like 20 mins from where my sister just moved to! man, If only she could go and actually check it out, but neither her or her husband would have a clue if it was in great shape or a piece of crap...


the real question is, what does he mean by "new"? like an in actually new/ never installed or like pulled from a very low miles donor? it does look in great shape, but then again, northern Alabama isnt known for its rust either
 
Ooo that's pretty. Buy it. You can replace any damaged parts at your convenience, then take a weekend to take your car down for a quick swap. Best of all, you will have an entire spare rear setup that you can rebuild at your convenience and have ready to bolt in when needed.
 
Yeah, if I was closer to it I would look at it. If it's really unused, I'd grab it.
 
Yeah, my only concern is cracked dust boots and seals. I'm going to grab it. Cost me $250 to get it freighted down here. According to the guy it's NOS as in never installed. I've asked for some close up picks of the dust boots and seals on the control arms but haven't gotten them yet.
 
the one thing I really didnt like about it, is that I really want 1st gen diff and half shafts! so I would have to change out more parts before I would install it! :shifty:
 
That is tempting! What did you decide?
 
Alax7 said:
That is tempting! What did you decide?
Click to expand...

I'm going to roll the dice and get it. My only concern is the rubber bellows on the CV axle and the seals on the control arms. Those are the things I can't buy. Every other seal I can buy new and bearings don't really go bad from sitting unless it was open to the elements.

He said that the dust covers look like they are starting to crack on the ball joints. Hopefully I'll find some universal boot close enough to make work even if it's not an exact fit. It's what I did on the front uppers about 40K-miles ago when they cracked.

Money wise with shipping it's going to cost the same as just the rear control arms, hub bearings, and seals for the knuckles. Hopefully it works out. Work wide it'll probably be about the same as unbolting everything and swapping the control arms anyways.

Should have it by next week sometime.
 
That same rear end was listed on E-bay for 6+ months last year. I have that exact image in my picture downloads. On Ebay he started out asking $1200, and last time I saw it listed he was asking $900. I almost purchased it. Note, that it is set up for a manual pull e-brake. It doesn't have the electrical E-brake motor/mount. You should double check the rear end ratio to be sure it matches your. (Isn't 3:58 gears less common?) At that price, it is good for parts.
 
Then the ad is wrong and it is not really for a 2003-2006 LS.
 
tijoe said:
That same rear end was listed on E-bay for 6+ months last year. I have that exact image in my picture downloads. On Ebay he started out asking $1200, and last time I saw it listed he was asking $900. I almost purchased it. Note, that it is set up for a manual pull e-brake. It doesn't have the electrical E-brake motor/mount. You should double check the rear end ratio to be sure it matches your. (Isn't 3:58 gears less common?) At that price, it is good for parts.
Click to expand...

Well if it's a Gen1 rear then that means I'm half-way there for doing my 8.8" swap. Is it just a matter of putting on the gen2 calipers or is there actual differences between them for the rears?

I think I also need a Gen1 drive shaft if I am remembering correctly. Or is the DS the same on Gen1 and Gen2?
 
The e-brake actuator mount is not on the calipers. It's on the frame over the diff. For myself, I can't tell if the holes to mount the actuator are there or not from the picture. I assume that tijoe got a better look at it.
 
I thought that 3.58:1 was pretty much all of them except the manuals?
 
Kumba said:
I think I also need a Gen1 drive shaft if I am remembering correctly.
Click to expand...

yes if doing an 8.8 swap, you will need a custom drive shaft.

however if that is for a gen one, then I would probably like that better... then you already have your diff and half shafts, then you just need a TracLok! while 4.10s would be nice, I'm more concerned with just stopping the one wheel peel going on!
 
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