Time for a reality check. The Lower Control Arms can be done simply by disconnecting the ball joint from the suspension upright, the strut rod, the lower strut mount, and the bushing at the frame. Four connections. Sounds easy, right?
If that car sees snow or has seen snow or, more specifically, the over-salted and caustic roadways that are a result of snow, then this is going to be harder than people are making it out to be. I'm guessing "Holland" means MI, so I suspect you fit the 'car exposed to over-salted roads' qualification. Factor in that these parts have been bolted together for a decade or more, and you have a recipe for frozen, rusty, and just plain nasty bolts. If that is correct, then plan on EVERY bolt being a HUGE struggle. Use lots of penetrant everywhere, get air tools, a huge breaker bar (and pipe to fit over it), and large amount of your alcoholic beverage of choice (you'll need it).
I think when I did my first MN12 LCA job, it took roughly four hours. And if I recall correctly, I needed to use a six foot pipe on my three foot breaker bar... more than once. Yes, that was for the stuff my impact couldn't do (albiet, I do not own what is really a 'high quality' impact). I used two cans of PB Blaster and a fifth of Jack
All told, if you get into it and realize you have bitten off more than you can chew, don't take it back to a dealer. Find an independent mechanic to turn your wrenches for you. The dealer employs a tech with less than five years experience for ten bucks an hour and charges you $75. An independent guy will likely have decades of experience and charge you $50-60. Who would you rather have working on your car?
