Testing my mark need pointers

Goddard-MarkVIII

Goddard-MarkVIII

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I've been on a mission to figure out my mark and fix it myself only its been a tough road. I have some stuttering(misfire like) Around 25mph and 35-45 at least thats when it usually does it when its hot. Cold its fine.

This is what I've done so far. I changed the boots and plugs. Using RPM Outlet boots and Autolite double platinum.

I checked the fuel injectors by removed each connector one at a time to see if it had no affect on the engine stutter.

I changed the fuel filter.

Change the oil using Mobile 1 synthetic and oil filter.

I'm going to check my fuel pump here pretty soon, but I need more ideas I want to know whats going on with my car more. I'm going to go pick up a OBD code puller probably from harbor freight, but I need to know what other tools I need to test my fuel pressure for example and also any other sensors on my car.

How do I test my vacum regulators and things like that? How do I test my EGR valves? I know its probably alot of information, but I need to figure this stuff out. Could it be the Idle Air control valve? What tool do I need to test it? Intake air sensor? How do I test that? O2 sensors ? How do I test that I hope its all the same tool.
 
Your lucky having a gen2 you have obd2 which makes code scanning much easier. Are you throwing any check engin lights?
 
yeah it was throwing some codes now it isn't....Now I still have the stutter, but no codes...atleast yet I just was messing with it a few days ago...

so I need a OBD II? meter to scan codes...?
 
I see that you only changed the sparkplug wire boots and it may be the whole plug wire First check those codes to point you in the right direction. You don't want to go off half cocked. I had the same problem,and i thought it was a bad coil. So i jumped the gun and went to a junkyard and got a coil off of a 97 Mark VIII that was only in the yard 2 months(how lucky could i get)for $25. I put it on,and still had the problem. So i went to Autozone,got the code checked,and it said misfire left bank. So i started pullin plugwires and found the one. One plugwire! I went back to the junkyard where i got the coil and paid $5 for a wire. Problem solved.

$25 for a coil i didn't need...Darn!
$5 for that wire...ahhhh!
$0 for the check at autozone whew!
Havin OBD II PRICELESS!!!!
 
I see what your saying for sure. I'm still getting a misfire, but one thing I watched for when changing the plugs which needed to be changed any way was the actual connector that the boot wraps around. I think it might be bad. How would I test that?

My code that was pulled is PO303 pd, but my check engine light is coming on any more. At first when I wanted to reset the codes I would remove the negative battery cable after that it hasn't come back on.
 
I agree could be that....but how do I know? and where is it? I'm gonna go to the scrap yard and find be some extra stuff I need.

also how often do these go bad? Not the rubber part the ?connector?
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If you have a check engine light on,thats your starting point. Just get those codes first and a path will start to clear for you. Please! don't do what my friend did and went off to a mechanic cause he got impatient.(nothing against mechanics,i was one.) The mechanic solved the whole problem by first charging him for diagnostic. Then,told him he needed a coil,plugs,and a set of wires. And then he had labor charges for all of that. He told me the mechanic told him he had 2 bad wires. BUT! just to make sure he changed the coil on the drivers side,and the plugs also. I think they took advantage of him cause he knew nothing about cars.:( If he woulda been patient,all he woulda really needed was wires and plugs. I woulda put them on for free cause he's my friend.
So just be patient!
 
I don't have a problem waiting and I hear ya, but I already changed the coils and boots and plugs now I'm looking to find the next issue. Where is the O2 sensor located? how do I test the O2 sensor to see if its bad?

never mind found the 02 sensor.
 
"whats the gauge called to check the fuel pressure? Gonna pick one up at harbor freight?"

anyone know where I can get some new connectors?
 
The gauge to check the fuel pressure, is a Fuel Pressure Gauge.
For the connectors, if your talking about the coil side, you need to replace the coils, if its the car (harness) side, you need to call Ford and see if they have them (unlikely) or go to a wreckers and get some...
I didn't understand if you changed the boots, and later the coils? You've done both, right??
 
yeah I've done both, but I mean the electronic part that connects to the harness and the boot and coil connects to. When I ordered from RPM Outlet they included everything, but that so now I'm looking for the "connectors" atleast thats what I think there called.

I think that might be the issue... Is this common?

this is what I changed.
mtb300214.jpg


I'm wondering about the top part the coil and boot connects to then you attach to the wiring harness to it.
 
You still haven't told us what codes you got. And you replaced the boots,but how do you know it's not a wire,or two. Ohm the wires out. But,you can narrow it down if you're gettin a code for a misfire on one bank of cylinders or the other. CODES,CODES,CODES.
 
ob2 is good and all, but not all the times the codes are correct. I used to have a 97 explorer and when i hooked up the scanner, it said 5 codes when really it was 2 codes. the first bank o2 was no good and it had a bad vaccum leak. it said i had both o2s were bad misfire, generic ford dtc.
 
From that picture you posted, you only replaced the connectors and boots, not the coils themselves (which is what I think your talking about with the other connector/'electrical part' you mention...)
You could try swapping the #3 coil over to the other side of the engine, reset the codes, drive for a few days normally, and see if a mis-fire code is set for that new cylinder. If not, may want to start looking at the injectors, or find someone or a shop with a scope that can see what each coil/plug/injector is doing...
 
Looks like it might be the engine because there is a clicking coming from the engine on the passanger side.
 
Why would you get a PO102 code? Is this the sensor connected to the intake tube? If so what would create a sort of pumping sound when connected, but nothing when disconnected?
 
If you want good reliable parts First Call Max at 5 Star Ford. Number On the Right side of the screen.

Max's prices will often beat aftermarket prices and you are getting OEM parts.

You can also check out www.rockauto.com for some good parts and prices.

Avoid Autozone...
 
Auto zone is over priced. So far I JB welded the crack that should hold for awhile so I can work on this bigger issue the misfire on 3.

Why would you get a PO102 code? Is this the sensor connected to the intake tube? If so what would create a sort of pumping sound when connected, but nothing when disconnected?
 
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