T stat?

Sal329

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I was thinking of a 180 deg T stat for my Gen 1? Any ideas? What t stat do you recommend?
 
I personally wouldn't go any cooler than a 180. You want the thermostat to be able to open and close to cool the coolant down. A 160 might let it flow to quickly ay higher rpm's. I have the factory recomended temp in mine. It is there for a reason.
 
160 is what you need, runs fine, no issues whatsoever in any way shape or form. Been running one for 10 years now.

You do NOT run at 160. You run in the 180ish range. you NEVER run what the rating is.
 
If you run in the 180ish range then the computer will think that the engine is not up to normal operating temp and compensate by adding more fuel. your engine will be running rich. If you are looking for performance then you could do this. What is wrong with the t-stat that the engine requires? Like I said before, it is there for a reason. Then again each to their own.

If infact the engine is running at 180 degrees then you will be running rich. It may even cause some trouble on an OBD2 car. Those sensors need to be at operating temps to pass emissions correctly.
 
If you run in the 180ish range then the computer will think that the engine is not up to normal operating temp and compensate by adding more fuel. your engine will be running rich. If you are looking for performance then you could do this. What is wrong with the t-stat that the engine requires? Like I said before, it is there for a reason. Then again each to their own.

If infact the engine is running at 180 degrees then you will be running rich. It may even cause some trouble on an OBD2 car. Those sensors need to be at operating temps to pass emissions correctly.

I have never had a rich condition with a 160 stat ever. I have passed legitimte State Inspections from day one with flying colors with all mods installed.

We use them in all the mod powered cars, Marauders, Cobra's the SuperMark...etc.

Ask anyone else that runs them in here if they ever had a problem with their vehicle running rich, there you will find your answer.
 
The ecu changes from cold start mode at 130 degrees! You will have no problem running a 160 degree thermostat. I personally like the Stant 170 degree thermostats but 160 is fine for any application!
 
We all have our own oppinions. That's what makes this board so great. :D
 
OK but I even ran with no thermostat in my 95 LSC for months and had no problems whatsoever...
 

Yes I agree about opinions but this is fact.
Like LSC32V said 130 degrees is correct so that right there throws out all notions of a lower temp stat does anything detrimental to the cars mpg, emissions and or driveability.

Do this little trick, take your car and start it up, let the temp get to the L in normal and give it a good run.
You will instantly feel the car just rip when cooler, then let the car get to full operating temperature (middle of the guage) and then do the same. The car feels sluggish and held back severely.
VERY noticeable difference.
 
Yes I agree about opinions but this is fact.
Like LSC32V said 130 degrees is correct so that right there throws out all notions of a lower temp stat does anything detrimental to the cars mpg, emissions and or driveability.

Do this little trick, take your car and start it up, let the temp get to the L in normal and give it a good run.
You will instantly feel the car just rip when cooler, then let the car get to full operating temperature (middle of the guage) and then do the same. The car feels sluggish and held back severely.
VERY noticeable difference.

You are correct about the car having more power when it is cold. I thought this was do to the colder intake temps and the extra fuel that was being fed to the engine when it was cold.

Could you actually tell any difference in power just by changing to a 160 t stat? If it really will give you a little more power and wont cause a rich condition then I may try it out for myself. I was told by an emissions class instructor that modern computers do not go into normal operating mode until 180-190 temps are reached. Maybe this information was incorrect. There is only one way to find out. Who sells a good 160 stat that wont jam up?

Running without a t stat is never a good idea though! Even in older carburated vehicles, you should at least cut the center of the t stat out and leave the rest in place as a restrictor to help slow the flow of the water.
 
You are correct about the car having more power when it is cold. I thought this was do to the colder intake temps and the extra fuel that was being fed to the engine when it was cold.

Could you actually tell any difference in power just by changing to a 160 t stat? If it really will give you a little more power and wont cause a rich condition then I may try it out for myself. I was told by an emissions class instructor that modern computers do not go into normal operating mode until 180-190 temps are reached. Maybe this information was incorrect. There is only one way to find out. Who sells a good 160 stat that wont jam up?

Running without a t stat is never a good idea though! Even in older carburated vehicles, you should at least cut the center of the t stat out and leave the rest in place as a restrictor to help slow the flow of the water.

Hypertech part # 1011. Available for Summit at around $22.00 shipped I believe.
 
Yes, I ran with no thermostat for the summer in the 95 LSC. It took awhile for the car to warm up but it never went above the "L" in the gauge. My friend has been running with no thermostat in his LS1 for years.
 
I have a jet stage II chip and Jet 180 stat in mine, it runs great but I do not notice a major difference in running temp-it still has a lot to do with when the electric fan cuts on, if you run with the auto climate control on and the compressor runs, it drops temp anyway. I put the 180 more because it was recommended with the stage II and it gives me an extra 10-15 degrees-watching your temp guage is the biggest thing, that is, how consistent is it-I run full synthetic, and change it way more often that I probably need to, I really believe that full syn makes a big difference in operating temp.
my 2 cents.
 

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