Systems
- Thread starter KD00LS
- Start date
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
yes sir... you'll need a loc (line out converter) splice through your rear deck speakers.. if you have any other questions such as how to install an amp let me know
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
yea they could probably charge you 14.99 for the part and then anothr 45 or so for the install its pretty simple.. its a little box.. in which has 4 wires.. usually a green/green w stripe and a gray/gray w stripe sometimes a ground.. you'll cut your rear speakers.. use wire connectors green goes to left speaker wire pos green w stripe negative then do the same on the other side.. then you plug your rcas into the line out converter box.. not hard.. pretty self explanatory even comes with directions..
pdzcallday
Active LVC Member
Best buy is a little steep for install. try circuit city. it is 50.00 for install compared to about 120.00 from best buy.
2k2ls
Well-Known LVC Member
id trust a sound and security place over best buy. Btw my install is almost complete. there is gonna be a total of four amps and an eq all off the stock deck.
ez2h8
LVC Member
Anyone have some suggestions where I can find custom sub boxes that fit in the LS? I have 2 12" MTX in a bandpass, but it doesn't fit in truck. I would like to find a box that fits between the wheel wells, pressed up against the rear seat firing towards the rear of the car.
Thanks
Chuck
Thanks
Chuck
Hey 2k2ls. Be sure to let me know how that sounds. I'm in the middle of throughing in my stuff and running the stock deck as well. I already have an Alpin out of my ES300 that got smashed b4 i bought my LS, but I'm trying to keep the stock look.
I've got Polk Audio 6.5 components,
6 Kenwood rear fills
10' PPI sub
4 channle V12 for mids/high
Orion 225 for the sub.
Really hoping since the stock deck is also made by Alpine it will sound good.
Asim
I've got Polk Audio 6.5 components,
6 Kenwood rear fills
10' PPI sub
4 channle V12 for mids/high
Orion 225 for the sub.
Really hoping since the stock deck is also made by Alpine it will sound good.
Asim
I've got an old 200W amp and 12" sub and was thinking of putting it in my trunk. It will be coming from my 85 Mustang that I am not driving anymore. I'll be using the LOC but have a question. Since I don't have the audiophile system and no speakers in the rear deck lid, what is the easiest way to get the wire from my rear door speaker to my trunk? I assume I will have to run it through the rubber wire protector in my door jam? Kind of a stupid question but figured if anyone had a better idea they would let me know.
bigpappy33
Well-Known LVC Member
ive got a question about hooking up the stock head unit to a system, i have a 2000 LS V8 sport that has the glove box 6 disc changer and no rear deck speakers, so where should i splice into if i dont have rear speakers? is there still an output for it on the head unit, even though i dont have them. im getting system put in soon and am in need to figure this out.
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
DLS8K said:
better solution.. pull out your head unit and wire it directly behind your headunit and tuck it up in your dash, you wont have to hide any wires, or worry about taking your door panel off.. Just make sure you cut the right wires...
Oh yes........before I hook up my system this weekend, I want to run it by any of you wizards out there.
I have a LOC with 6 wires running out of it.......4 for speakers........2 they tell me not to worry about. I will be wiring my amp's ground and power cables from the battery in the trunk. I will have to have the signal wire (blue wire) wired into the amp wire behind the radio. All this sounds good, yes? The only question I had was what wire is the amp wire for my 2000 LS with base audio system located behind the radio? Is that blue as well or will it be a different color?
Thanks a lot and let me know if I am missing anything please.........I had read something that if I have the ground wires in my LOC that I will need a ground loop converter but I dont know about that. Any help would be great.
I have a LOC with 6 wires running out of it.......4 for speakers........2 they tell me not to worry about. I will be wiring my amp's ground and power cables from the battery in the trunk. I will have to have the signal wire (blue wire) wired into the amp wire behind the radio. All this sounds good, yes? The only question I had was what wire is the amp wire for my 2000 LS with base audio system located behind the radio? Is that blue as well or will it be a different color?
Thanks a lot and let me know if I am missing anything please.........I had read something that if I have the ground wires in my LOC that I will need a ground loop converter but I dont know about that. Any help would be great.
itsnotmydaddys
Dedicated LVC Member
DLS8K said:
correct youll take the 4 wires coming off and tap 2 + into the + of your speaker and the other two into the negative. the other 2 wires are a ground that you dont need to worry about. as far as which wire in the harnest is the remote, im not exactly sure (maybe the top row, second from the left(but dont quote me on that)). is what i did was went to circuit city and got a wiring harnest for the HU and read which one was the remote. but im sure smoeone here knows which one it is. good luck hope this helps a little. its really simple, once u get started ull be finished in no time.
pdzcallday
Active LVC Member
the 2 are a phone mute wires.
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
DLS8K said:
You stated "I will be wiring my amp's ground and power cables from the battery in the trunk" make sure you dont connect the ground to the negative on the battery, I saw some idiot who did that with a Mmats amp what an idiot... The remote wire is typically blue, but sometimes that alarm wire is blue or the Ilumination wire is blue. You can always use a voltmeter and see what wire is not hot when you turn the car off... I have an aftermarket head unit in which i would recommend upgrading to... Much better sound quality!! If your not getting any sound then you'll have to use that ground wire on the LOC, but I have only had to use it once.. if you get engine noise through the speakers try moving the ground... if that doesnt solve it then you'll need a ground loop converter... let me know if you need anything else.. oh yea if your putting the LOC behind the head unit make sure you have long enough RCAs to get from the LOC to the trunk.. only bad thing.. Good quality RCAS will give you better sound.... imho
Yeah........I made a typo there. I will be wiring the pos to the battery and the neg to somewhere else in the trunk. Thanks for the help though.........its good to see people are on top of things.Motts said:
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
yea just didnt want to see your amp go "Boom" lol wouldnt be a good idea.. what type of amp are you gona be running.. what type of speakers, type of box? what guage wire?
pour me another one
Active LVC Member
DLS8K said:
Since you're wiring the positive to the battery, wire the negative, from the amp, directly to the battery too.
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
pour me another one said:
no dont do that!!! :slam
pour me another one
Active LVC Member
Motts said:
Why not?
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
thats not how the amp was intended to be hooked up.. the ground shoudl either go to a ground strap, or directly to somewhere on the frame.. if you hook it up to the battery you tend to get engine noise..
Motts
Dedicated LVC Member
Motts said:
I've been installing for over 5 yrs and have never hooked an amp up through the battery besides the pos +
In which I am actually a certified installer.. I do custom installs, fiberglass, etc... :Beer :Beer
Motts said:
Funny I've been installing a lot longer than 5 years and grounding directly to the battery has always been my last resort to eliminate engine noise but it's usually not necessary just find a good spot bare metal close to your amp if you can.
pour me another one
Active LVC Member
Motts said:
Wow, I hope you're not serious. You do realize that the frame of the car is the same as the battery, polarity wise? The only reason people ground their amps to the metal of the car because its more cost effective then buying 17 ft of ground and running it to the battery. The whole car is "-" negative, thats why they ground it. There is no difference if you run a ground to the battery or to the frame, its the same thing, the frame acts as the ground wire, which is connected to the batterr "-". Have you ever installed an amp in a BMW, where the battery is in the trunk? Theres no difference if you connect it directly to the "-" battery post or screw it in two inches away to the frame. Have you ever worked on older Mercedes that have "common ground" systems? Every negative terminal of the speaker is connected to the frame.