Switching heads

All Mark VIIIs have B heads. Should swap no problem, but, why would you want to do that? Those earlier heads had the weaker (non beehive) valve springs.
 
Well I think I may have either a broken spring or lifter or something along those lines for example on earlier threads check here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVJryifUTVo and since I have a 93 laying around I could use those heads as a easier fix?? I'm not sure how hard it is to fix a lifter but have been reading up on fixing springs...any insight into this is appreciated.
 
We talked about this on another forum. I PMed you the link. Been talked about here too - have a search around.

Seems to be a common thing with hydraulic lifters. Some people swear by that Auto RX additive for curing it - may be worth a try, but i haven't used it myself.

I left my car standing for a while and it 'ticked' like in your vid, then it went away on its own.
 
Well supposedly this car was sitting for about a year or so and had a misfire because of a bad coil and since then I fixed the coil and it ran pretty well then the radiator cracked and started leaking coolant I ordered a new one and its on the way but I had a small clicking sound then but now when I run it it is a loud clicking sound...having no coolant in the system I know is bad and don't plan on driving it but I was trying to get all the kinks out of it while I wait on my part. The post seem to point to possible lifters or springs which I think I could probably do on my own with no experience but if its something else I'd like to run through that as well.

I've seafoamed the system twice since I've had it in the past 6 months. Ran B-12 chemtool in the gass cleaned the intake a bit but not the butterflys pour some mystery marvel in the crank case...

If it is a lifter repair is some what simple? Any ideas are appreciated like I said.
 
I doubt lifter replacement is simple. I have no first hand experience with any of this, just going by what i have read, so bear that in mind. I think that valve springs can be done with cams installed, but lifters, i believe the cams would need to come out - be a big job requiring some special tools and a work shop manual - definitely not for the faint of heart!

If it were me, i would do an oil and filter change and run the car for a few weeks - see if the noise settles down, if not, id try that Auto RX and possibly experiment with different oil brands / weights.

Google lifter noise and have a good read - seems very, very common and not too serious.

Next time Jamie97lsc has some heads in his shop, i will take a closer look at them - give me a better idea about our B heads heads and whats possible with the cams in place.

As i said in the PM, make ripping into the heads a last resort! Might be a 'can of worms' you wish you hadn't opened! Lol.
 
Cool bro appreciate the insight...yeah soon as I get that aluminum radiator I'll run it and work with different oils and the like...because now that you say it Mobile 1 could be the reason why it was quieter while penzoil what now I know could make it louder, but None of these fluids are a real fix? Auto RX claims to be...
 
No problem. Im no expert at all and hopefully some more guys will chime in on this subject. Seems cars that are left standing around experience this issue alot - so, giving it a good run for a while may help. Anything you can do to stop the noise without major work would be great! As i said, mine had the tick, and it vanished with some use. Im not worried though - i'll drive it til theres a major problem, then upgrade! :)
 
If you are gonna go threw all that work you are best off getting some 99 and up heads and then use a good intake. I have no idea what your finantial situation is tho.
 
timing DOHC chains are a SERIOUS PITA. I've done it twice, once at almost gun point because I told myself i'd never do it again.
 
I would rather drop in another motor than try to do a head swap with the engine in the car.
Space limitations and potential cam timing errors dictate IMHO that the engine needs to come out of the car.

I would find a suitable decent mileage replacement, and just swap the engines.
THEN.. if you feel the need to pull the heads and so on and so forth..you can do it at "leisure" and still having a running car.

FWIW: you could pull your old motor and strip it down to the block and get around 400.00 for just the block from the mustang guys.

Selling the block would recoupe roughly 50% of what you would spend getting a used replacement engine.
 
Throw some autoRX in the engine, it's one of the only products I would and have used. I noticed real results too.
 
I have a 93 with 69k miles on it and my 97 has 140 how hard would it be to just swap my 93 engine into my 97 and make the conversion to cops? Is that even possible? Should I?
 
Strip the 93 engine of it's intake and valve covers, then replace with your 97 components, there might be a few sensors too. Shoudln't be too hard of a swap.
 

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