swapping pumpkins

mossbergman

mossbergman

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well next week i plan on swapping my stock pumpkin for my 410 trac lok unit. i've never done this before and im honestly quite intimidated. I will be doing this in my garage on jacks. i was wondering what techniques you guys use to swap them or any tricks that would be helpful to know. maybe remind me of something i might forget. Also how long does this usually take? im pretty excited to enjoy the new rear, but like i said a little intimidated by the job ahead.
 
Last edited:
Fairly easy.

You only need to remove one spindle.

Loosen and remove the upper swing arm bolt at the spindle, loosen the lower 2 spindle bolts at the control arm, and remove them. (the front is a PITA to get out, I just hammered it out, and reinstalled it the other direction)

remove caliper, and hang somewhere, then pull the spindle and the axle out as one unit.

Disconnect ABS wiring

Disconnect driveshaft

Remove front bolts/nuts, support pumpkin

Remove rear bolts that bolt to subframe

Lower the pumpkin, and you can slide it towards the outside of the car that you removed the axle/spindle from.

This is called the "one wheel" method.

I dont think I am forgetting anything, but it's late, so someone feel free to correct me.


EDIT: NOT the lower control arm bolts... the spindle bolts... sorry.. I need sleep
 
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Bolt by the rear disk will have to be notched to fit back in the lower a frame to do the one wheel method.
Careful to choose the correct torx on the anti lock sensors.
They can be very tight.
Hour and a half if you can turn a wrench.

Three if you pull both axles, the preferred method for many, but a total PITA if the car is a rust bucket.
No need to open the third member....no c clip, axles should slide right out.
 
You can get out the one lower control arm bolts that can't just slide out, by beating it out? I trim like 1/2 inch of OD and it just makes it out.
 
Right on the Mark said:
You can get out the one lower control arm bolts that can't just slide out, by beating it out? I trim like 1/2 inch of OD and it just makes it out.
Click to expand...

Yup, it rotates the halfshaft on its way out then just pops out. And I reinstalled it the other direction. No problems.
 
Right on the Mark said:
You can get out the one lower control arm bolts that can't just slide out, by beating it out? I trim like 1/2 inch of OD and it just makes it out.
Click to expand...

I beat it......notched it for a easy install.
I didn't like how it came out.
See the cutoff tool on the die grinder in the pic? ;) and the BFH? lol
Spinning one on the lathe is a much better idea.
Just don't have a lathe handy all the time.

Rust free car.....I would just pull both sides.
Spend the extra time.
 
ford nut said:
I beat it......notched it for a easy install.
I didn't like how it came out.
See the cutoff tool on the die grinder in the pic? ;) and the BFH? lol
Spinning one on the lathe is a much better idea.
Just don't have a lathe handy all the time.

Rust free car.....I would just pull both sides.
Spend the extra time.
Click to expand...

+1
And replace your bushing if needed while you have it apart. Toe compensators probably need it anyway if you haven't done them already.
Or you could just get some bushings from DLF and do away with the compensators.
 
well im doing it tomorrow. im about to run and go get some gear oil. what kind do you recommend? i already have a bottle of friction modifier too
 
Do they use weighted bolts for connecting the ds to the pumpkin? If so, make sure they go back in the same spots.
 
What do you have to do to get the spindle and axel out? Im pulling like a mf and its not budging
 
I took a pry bar (once everything was disconnected of course) and gently pryed between the abs gear on the axle and the housing and it popped right out.

Most say the side gears in the differential are chamfered for the circlips on the axle to be able to squeeze and pop thru, but mine were not, so a little tap helped knock it out.
 
Stangman said:
I took a pry bar (once everything was disconnected of course) and gently pryed between the abs gear on the axle and the housing and it popped right out.

Most say the side gears in the differential are chamfered for the circlips on the axle to be able to squeeze and pop thru, but mine were not, so a little tap helped knock it out.
Click to expand...

+1. i had to do that.
 
mossbergman said:
What do you have to do to get the spindle and axel out? Im pulling like a mf and its not budging
Click to expand...

Yeah don't pull your just stretching the rubber cv boots and nothing else. Proper pry bar lever action and pop right out like mentioned.
 
Yep i used the pry bar method. Whoever said an hour and a half, are full of :q:q:q:q. Took me all day. Got it done tho. Second comes almost immediately
 
If the bolts have been out before, or if you know exactly what you're doing, I don't think an hour and a half is that outrageous...
 
That would be me.
I guess I am full of chit.

Next time I will just keep my Chit to myself.
 
Ford nut thank youu for the good advice above. Im sorry if i came of as an ass, i was exhausted and kinda frustrated last night after that ordeal lol. Alot of my problem was everything that could go wrong did amd i also disnt really know what i was doing. I also had to cut my exhaust off because the people who did it put no flanges in it.The two hardest parts for me were getting the front bottom spindle bolt out and getting the new pumpkin finnagled back into the car on my back. If i had to do it again id say i could do ot waay faster but not an hour and a half.
 
No problem moss, exhaust can be a headache.

Now you need a tune so you can enjoy the gears, it will be a different car.
 
I will say this, the gears really woke the car up and now will chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift. Now for the tune..
 
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