Subwoofer Port??

2002_lincolnLS said:
if the subs are in a sealed box that is or within tollerance of the cubic feet it needs to operate correctly, you don't want to port it. Subs are designed to work in very specific enviroments. check the sub specs to see if they will still operate correctly in a ported box the size you ordered.
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Well not a port for the box but basically a port from my Cabin to the Trunk.

Obviously if there is no opening from the trunk to the cabin. and the Subs are in the trunk. Its going to be alot quieter closed off then having a opening leading from the trunk to the cabin without having to put the rear seat down.
THUS me wanting to make the Cupholder/armrest backing a port between the trunk and cabin.

Ya Digg?? lol
 
well to be honest i had two 12's in my old car in the trunk plus 14 other speakers and if the bass wasn't on zero or in the negatives you couldn't hear anything else at all. I'll post a pic
 
this is an early pic, i dont have any of it totaly finished, got stolen before i got it all done

the speakers in there are 10's i had at the time i later put two memphis mojo 12's and a bigger amp

10946_1281341562987_1513502348_735951_6609890_n.jpg
 
my decklid is the same way, no speakers or cutouts...just anchors for child seats.

i was actually thinking of cutting into the back of the armrest too. I figure a sawsall for the big rough cut, and dremel to clean it up. Then put some custom mesh or grill over it to "blackbox" it. Even if you screw it up. the armrest will fold up and it will be invisible. When i get my box with 10"s, I didn't want to pull down the back seat all the time either, pain to go into the trunk and engage the handle, and it looks messy with the seat down. I'm going to chalk that up as an upcoming project. I need to build up my cash for my system first.
 
burning.empire said:
my decklid is the same way, no speakers or cutouts...just anchors for child seats.

i was actually thinking of cutting into the back of the armrest too. I figure a sawsall for the big rough cut, and dremel to clean it up. Then put some custom mesh or grill over it to "blackbox" it. Even if you screw it up. the armrest will fold up and it will be invisible. When i get my box with 10"s, I didn't want to pull down the back seat all the time either, pain to go into the trunk and engage the handle, and it looks messy with the seat down. I'm going to chalk that up as an upcoming project. I need to build up my cash for my system first.
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Going to do that port hole soon. Good thinking on the grille.. I might go by Home Depot or something to get a mesh grille and paint it black.
 
If any of you need info on how a box works go to www.12volt.com. My brother inlaw has been building custom systems for 15 years, He told me all the stuff I needed for my system. The difference between a sealed box and a ported box is that a sealed box has a better bass response and will hit harder but requires more power. a ported box does not require alot of power ad sounds louder but you sacrifice the bass response. I am having him build mea acustom slotloaded box for 2 12 JLAudio subs. I will be venting them out of the rear center armrest with a custom grille. once I get done I will take pics and post them.
 
I'm looking at this subwoofer/box setup, any opinions? i don't want to spend a crazy amount.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236JH4...ir=YCWoofer_Size__@inches@_|10+x+2&tab=review

I listen to nothing but heavy metal. So I require tight fast bass. Which confuses me because on crutchfield they say to use sealed boxes for tightly controlled bass, and ported boxes for more booming bass. Then they go on to say that ported is better for rock and metal. which is basically the opposite of what you would want. When listening to complex songs with off-the-wall bass patterns, you don't want it "boomy" you want it tight...nice depth but tight.

but yeah maybe in the upcoming month or so, I'll try the backseat hack....or maybe not depending on the output and clarity of the subwoofers.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-HIFONICS-HFI1...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=1443223127271969375

135$ shipped.. What i got..

I bought 2 of these subs for my mustang when my 2 12's blew..

They Surprisingly out beat a 2000$ Dual 10'' JL Audio System in a 2010 Camaro..

Would shake pictures off the wall in my house.. Sounded amazing.. Thats why I re-bought them for my lincoln..

Look up the reviews for the Hifonics HFI12D4.. I do believe they make even better 12''s.

Even some square models like the Kicker L7 Solo Barac. Havent heard them play but im sure they are bomb.
 
1LoudLS said:
honestly for that price (around 250) i would just go with one single Type R, it will take up half as much space, take even more power, and hit harder for less money.
10"
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24186_Alpine-SWR-1043D.html

12"
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24187_Alpine-SWR-1243D.html

and yes, if you want tight fast bass, you want sealed
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But He is paying only 250$ for 2 12's and a box. For a good box keep in mind the price cost of that..

BTW, My friend just bought a Polk Audio 12 for his Miata.. Took out the passenger side seat and has em to his right.. It hits so hard I can feel it in my stomach lol.. But then again.. Its a Small as Hell car and the 12 is right next to you.

And at the price of 800$.. Im sure you can find 2 12's for half the price that give you 5x the beat
 
burning.empire said:
I'm looking at this subwoofer/box setup, any opinions? i don't want to spend a crazy amount.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236JH4...ir=YCWoofer_Size__@inches@_|10+x+2&tab=review

I listen to nothing but heavy metal. So I require tight fast bass. Which confuses me because on crutchfield they say to use sealed boxes for tightly controlled bass, and ported boxes for more booming bass. Then they go on to say that ported is better for rock and metal. which is basically the opposite of what you would want. When listening to complex songs with off-the-wall bass patterns, you don't want it "boomy" you want it tight...nice depth but tight.

but yeah maybe in the upcoming month or so, I'll try the backseat hack....or maybe not depending on the output and clarity of the subwoofers.
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That seams like a pretty sweet set up. I see a problem though. The box size is a little too big to fit underneath the factory subs (thats if you were planning on doing so).
I would suggest build your own box, or buy the ebay one with a single Type R. Hell, if I could figure out whats wrong with my paypal account, I would sell you my ebay box with a Type R 12 for $220 + shippping. That would be a pretty nice daily set up, and youll have full access to the trunk.

Edit: if you really want it make it $200 + shipping.
Edit: Nm type R sold!
 
Travis2000LS said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-HIFONICS-HFI1...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=1443223127271969375

135$ shipped.. What i got.
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But do they sell that setup in 10"s, I prefer 10" because they can handle the vidbration and fluttering better than a 12".....but also I haven't dealt with extreme car audio for 15 years, so I'm sure the technology has come a long way. if you think 12" can keep up, that box setup is a great deal

here is an example of a song I would be playing

‪Suffocation - "Abomination Reborn" Relapse Records‬‏ - YouTube
 
Travis2000LS said:
But He is paying only 250$ for 2 12's and a box. For a good box keep in mind the price cost of that..
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yes i am very aware of what he is getting for $250, which is why i linked to a single sub that will out perform the pair for less than $160/. do some boxes cost more than $90? yes, but he shouldn't have any problem finding a good single sealed box for well under that. hell you could build your own for under $30

cost less
takes up far less space
sounds better

whats not to love?
 
I honestly am already thinking about a new setup. I was thinking about 2-3 8" DC lvl2's, and maybe an AQ1200 or 2200 (depending on # of subs run). I heard a pair of Alpine Type R 8's in vented enclosures over the 4th of July, and was really impressed at the SQ.
 
pektel said:
I honestly am already thinking about a new setup. I was thinking about 2-3 8" DC lvl2's, and maybe an AQ1200 or 2200 (depending on # of subs run). I heard a pair of Alpine Type R 8's in vented enclosures over the 4th of July, and was really impressed at the SQ.
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Did you not like your lvl 4? AQ amps are the way to go. I ended up cancelling my amp order with DC and went with AQ. Are you looking to run a smaller setup to gain trunk space?
 
I like my lvl 4 plenty. 3 8's = more cone area. And I'm pretty sure I could fit at least that into the LS's trunk.
 
2002_lincolnls said:
this is an early pic, i dont have any of it totaly finished, got stolen before i got it all done

the speakers in there are 10's i had at the time i later put two memphis mojo 12's and a bigger amp
Click to expand...

o

m

g................

I hate thieves but I think they did you a favor.
 
It's all about personal preference (what you think you hear), casual listening/competition and the type of music you listen to that should dictate what your set up consists of.

A $15k system might not give you the listening experience that you are looking for, but a $500.00 system could.

That being said, everything is subjective, and any set-up can be debated enough to prove its worth.

Personally I prefer old school precision power amps for their clarity, (which I believe cannot be equaled by any of today's amps), reliability and flexibility. For years I have preferred 10s in a sealed enclosure for nice deep tones, responsiveness and the ability to reproduce any type of music accurately.
 
I have to agree with jake624. The PPI amps as well as The original Orion amps (HCCA) were and still are the best amps out there. they are very reliable and they could push out more than their power ratings say. I would even say if you can find them the Rocford Fosgate 25 to life amps were excellent.
 
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