Subrame Bolts & Hardware

nghtshd88

nghtshd88

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Dropping engine and trans out the bottom as one unit. Upon taking the front subframe bolts out the welds that hold the nuts steady on top to the plate break. Down to the last bolt but looking for new "plates". I see two part numbers for the LS but regardless both are discontinued. One yard tells me the nuts are part of the unibody. Dealer is closed till Monday but just wondering.

W704968-S436
2W4Z-5B030-AA

Swapping rear subframe as well and it seems to be cooperating so Im guessing those bolts arent exposed to the elememts like the fronts...
 
You might want to watch the rear bolts too. Somebody on this forum a while back, completely gutted their LS for performance.

He was doing the rear subframe bolts and snapped at least 1 bolt. It was rusted up and seized in the hole and snapped.

He ended up having to bring in a professional welder to fix that.

Pull up the carpet and back seat, and see if you can get to the bolt shanks from the top... and saturate them with PB Blaster... and let them sit for a couple days.

Go underneath and do the same too, to the bolt heads. The heads can be heated if needed.
 
Waiting to hear from a NOS warehouse for $140 a set..

plate.jpg
 
Ehhh... yeah those are made out of high strength spring steel and stamped in a die. No making those on your own.

I can't even picture where those are at under the car.
 
W704968-S436 looks like a Jaguar number to me. Maybe call a Jag dealer???

Terry's Jag in K-zoo has been helpful. He and I spent some time talking when I did my Jag suspension conversion.
 
Terrys Jag no longer sells parts as of a few months ago, they said if dealer doesnt have we dont. Jag part #XR813346 is obsolete as well. Looks lile ill be taking the last NOS set for $150..
 
9n499 tube is the gooseneck.

8a511 is the t-stat cap

8575 is the thermostat assembly

8592 is the T-stat housing

299-s300 is a 4 pack of the gooseneck o-rings

8548 is the crossover pipe

8590/1079 is the gasket for the crossover
 
04_Sport_LS said:
You might want to watch the rear bolts too. Somebody on this forum a while back, completely gutted their LS for performance.

He was doing the rear subframe bolts and snapped at least 1 bolt. It was rusted up and seized in the hole and snapped.

He ended up having to bring in a professional welder to fix that.

Pull up the carpet and back seat, and see if you can get to the bolt shanks from the top... and saturate them with PB Blaster... and let them sit for a couple days.

Go underneath and do the same too, to the bolt heads. The heads can be heated if needed.
Click to expand...

Bolt snapped of course.. that user looks to be gone. What did the welder do to remedy that?
 
Hey, looking at those coolant parts. A lot dont even come up. Also not sure why there are 4 "gooseneck" orings. It only uses 2 in the front of the block. Another crack..

20240207_185658.jpg
 
The gooseneck o-rings do come in a 4 pack. They are a common failure spot in the cooling system. You will need the extras at some point.

The other parts should come up... depending on where you are looking. As far as I know they are dealer item only.

Do NOT buy aftermarket cooling system parts!!!
 
And NO... You are getting the gooseneck o-rings confused with the crossover pipe o-rings.

There is a noticeable difference in diameter between the gooseneck o-rings, and the crossover pipe o-rings.

Give your local dealer a call and give them the last 8 digits of your VIN number. They should have all the parts I listed, or be able to get them in a day or 2.
 
Gen2.. hoses 3W4Z-9F814-AA & 3W4Z-9F813-AC look to be discontinued.

I see you removed the hose though without removing the intake by filing it down? Then 2 screwdrivers to get the hose off and on?

Post in thread 'GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul' GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul

If so will be able to reuse the 2 rear gooseneck screws.
 
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I cut the bolts shorter by about 3/8 inch and notched (filed) the intake flange to clear the bolt heads. Do Not get into the flange too deep, or the O-ring for the throttle body may not seal completely.

Try 6w4z as the prefix of the part number, instead of 3w4z
 
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Obsolete per Ford. Nothing left online.

Btw the subframe bolts snapped.. not once but twice.. the ones from Jag/Landrover that someone posted on here do not work unless you weld in spacers. Had to get custom bolts.
 
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