Stupid question about brakes...

Which DOT for a street daily driver/light track LS?

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B_Kuz

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So, I don't have a manual handy, but I'm taking my car over to the Machine Shop I used to work at (my dad still works there) and we're changing rotors and pads early in the morning... I'm trying to find out if there's any funky torx sockets or anything beyond normal metric or SAE hex bolts... I want to stop at the parts store and pick up the right tools BEFORE we have the car up and tires off... :-)

Also, are there any good reasons to go with DOT 4 or Dot 5.1 fluid? What are everyone's recomended brands?

Thanx in advance...
 
manual says dot 3 or 4 only. i would not put 5 in, i think its made for only certain brake systems.

when i did my brakes and rotors we just used normal sockets and a caliper press. nothing fancy. a jack lol, and maybe a flat head screw driver

anything else u guys can think of?


also i dont think u need to change your brake fluid unless your changing calipers. you can if you want. i wanted to but my gf's bro (who knows a :q:q:q:q load lot more then me) said it wasn't necessary.
 
thanx for the advice... as a clarification, i was refering to dot 5.1, NOT the silicone DOT 5 crap... :-P As for changing the fluid, call me overly anal, but my track cars get new fluid every two trips to the track and my street cars get it every 6 months or so... overkill? possibly... but worth it to me to have guaranteed cleean, not wetted brake fluid :-)
 
Defiantly go with DOT 4, higher boiling point. I would flush out all of the old fluid. You will be surprised how dark the old fluid will be. Brake fluid will absorb water and can cause vapor lock. Any of the name brands will do fine. I bought Prestone synthetic from Wally World, about a quart. Cost a little more but worth it.

The rear brakes piston will have to be screwed in. I picked up a piston tool at Harbor freight for $5. It looks like a child’s block with different nubs on the sides; you use it with a socket wrench. Others have been creative in substituting the piston tool; it is just faster.

A disc brake pad spreader tool to push in the front pistons; you can use a C-clamp also.
 
Hmmmm... it might be some thing handy to write up in the tech section about just a basic brake job... I think I'm gonna sit down and write one with my dad...

EBC rotors and Red stuff pads are on the car... GAWD do they smoke durring breakin! But the pedal modulation and feel is superb, as well as a marked breaking power increase. I'm sure the pads haven't finished outgassing yet, nor is everything fully bedded in... but things are looking good so far. I went with the DOT 4 fluid... what a pain to push all the old, dirty crap out... but I think it was worth it. I've also determined that those vacum thingies are worthless... if you have two people, do it the old fashioned way... The more I think about it, the more i think that every bleed in the future is going to include a full fluid flush, just to be that little extra careful that the fluid is as water-free as possible.

Anyhow... look forward to a brake pad and rotor change tech article soon, in case anyone wants to save the money on a dealer job... (and DON'T go to just brakes for your LS!!! lol)
 
I have used Ford HD fluid (Dot 3) for open tracking my '96, '99 and '04 Mustang Cobras at Willow Springs (big track), Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, and California Speedway (Grand Am course) over the last 10 years with good results. If I was you, I wouldn't bother with Dot 4. I use it in my race car (BMW), but nothing else.
 
dtx01 said:
manual says dot 3 or 4 only. i would not put 5 in, i think its made for only certain brake systems.

when i did my brakes and rotors we just used normal sockets and a caliper press. nothing fancy. a jack lol, and maybe a flat head screw driver

anything else u guys can think of?


also i dont think u need to change your brake fluid unless your changing calipers. you can if you want. i wanted to but my gf's bro (who knows a :q:q:q:q load lot more then me) said it wasn't necessary.
Click to expand...

You should flush your brake fluid at least once a year if you are doing any corner carving.
 
DOT 4 doubles the boiling point and the cost IIRC was .75 more a pint.

Another upgrade would be Speed Bleeders. They are a bleeder with a check valve so you can bleed yourself. Part # SB1010 or 10mmX1.0 X 33mm. Pep Boys sells them for 2 for $10; they use a different # on the package, from the company $7 each.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

They make a stainless steel bleeder that run about $65 for four shipped.

Take a look at Quick LS TECH ARTICLE on STOPTECH stainless steel brake lines.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/BrakeLines/index.htm

STOPTECH stainless steel brake lines can be found at:

http://www.lskoncepts.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=126
 
gcwimmer said:
DOT 4 doubles the boiling point and the cost IIRC was .75 more a pint.

????????????? Ford HD Dot 3 has a dry boiling point of 550 F and a wet boiling point of 290. By way of example, ATE Super Blue (Dot 4) has a dry boiling point of 536 and a wet boiling point of 392. Motul Racing 600 (Dot 4) has a dry boiling point of 585 and a wet boiling point of 421.
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99 KOBRA said:
gcwimmer said:
DOT 4 doubles the boiling point and the cost IIRC was .75 more a pint.

????????????? Ford HD Dot 3 has a dry boiling point of 550 F and a wet boiling point of 290. By way of example, ATE Super Blue (Dot 4) has a dry boiling point of 536 and a wet boiling point of 392. Motul Racing 600 (Dot 4) has a dry boiling point of 585 and a wet boiling point of 421.
Click to expand...

My statement was based on non ford and racing brake fluid, the kind you can pick up at the run of the mill automotive department. I used Prestone Synthetic DOT 4 with a 500 dry and 311 wet. Both 2004 owner’s manual and the brake master filler cap state DOT 3 or 4, given the choice with little difference in price I went with DOT 4 and will continue using DOT 4.

To each their own.
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