Starting issue

Colten

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Alright guys, I have no idea what is wrong, and I'm not really sure how to word it for a Google search.

My 02 LS v6 has a starting issue. It only happens when it is cold. I have to leave the key at the On/Run position for about 3-5 minutes before starting the car, or all it will do is crank. If the car was just running for a while and is already warmed up, I don't have to do this.

Any ideas? Thanks

I looked through the "read this before posting" and I couldn't find this issue, I apologise if I overlooked it.
 
Fuel pump, check fuel pump operation, turn the key to on without starting the engine, you should hear the fuel pump kick on. If not check the fuel pump fuse in the trunk. If blown, there ya go, bad fuel pump. 2nd issue the IAC valve is sticking, clean valve or replace, buy one with a lifetime guarantee, you will need it. 3rd possible large vacuum leak, check all large hoses.
 
Fuel pump comes on. I have 45 psi the moment the key turns on. I'll check the iac and hoses once I get a moment. Appreciate it a lot
 
I'm having a hard time figuring out what having the key on for that long would do to make it work. Could you try an experiment? Will it start right away if you hold the gas pedal down 1/4 to 1/3 the way before turning the key to start and hold it there till the engine runs or give up after several seconds? If it does, then maybe it is the IAC and it is heating up with the key on.
 
Yeah I don't know what the key being on like that would do either.
I will try that experiment right after work.
 
So, the experiment yielded the same results. No start. I do have a new IAC valve but when I took off the old one I noticed a difference. The old one has no spring in it, and the new one does. Is it supposed to be there??
 
There has to be a spring, but the design might have it hidden, assuming that the part revision changed.
 
Okay cool. Well replacing the IAC valve didn't change anything. In the morning I'm going to see if there is a difference in fuel pressure using the gauge and the scanner .Maybe the fuel pressure sensor is sending the wrong signal?? Is that a thing?
 
Alright. So I'll try that in the morning, and let you know. Anything else I should try while I'm out?
 
Alright, so the fuel pressure test didn't change anything.

With the IAC valve, does the car have to relearn idle or anything like that? Or did I get a bad part.

Started the car to let it warm up and went inside. When I came back out the idle was fluctuating between 600-1200 and eventually just died. Started it and the same result. Did this for about 10 minutes and then I decided to just take the truck.
 
Alright, so the fuel pressure test didn't change anything.

With the IAC valve, does the car have to relearn idle or anything like that? Or did I get a bad part.

Started the car to let it warm up and went inside. When I came back out the idle was fluctuating between 600-1200 and eventually just died. Started it and the same result. Did this for about 10 minutes and then I decided to just take the truck.
What was the fuel pressure reading?
 
...With the IAC valve, does the car have to relearn idle or anything like that? Or did I get a bad part.

Started the car to let it warm up and went inside. When I came back out the idle was fluctuating between 600-1200 and eventually just died. Started it and the same result. Did this for about 10 minutes and then I decided to just take the truck.

Yes, it does, but it shouldn't be nearly that bad. Sounds like a bad part. Aftermarket?
 
I haven't cleaned the maf, is there a specific cleaner I should use?? Can I use carb cleaner?

Yeah it was aftermarket. I will take it back and get an OEM alternative.
 
I ordered some MAF cleaner. Be here in a couple days.

I am getting a code p1413. Is that possibly due to being hit on the driver's front fender?? I believe this is a relay for it? And it's now cracked.


Also, sorry if there is a specific way to due photos here. A forum for my other car we're supposed to use a hosting site.

IMG_20190122_144819.jpg
 
Yeah, you can see that the heatsink/mounting ears are broke off.
s-l300.jpg


Looks like you can get them used on ebay for about $20, probably less at a local junkyard. I don't think they make them new anymore, so the few still on the shelf are pretty expensive $150ish. I think that the latest part number is F8OZ-2C013-B.
This $60 aftermarket would probably work: www.amazon.com/WVE-NTK-1R2146-Control-Relay/dp/B07DVWN6QS/ref=dp_ob_title_auto
 

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