Starter "Module"?

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2000LSMichael

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Has anyone ever heard of some type of starter "module"? I have a 2000 V-8 and replaced numerous items (cleaned injectors, new oxygen sensors, MAF sensor, coils, spark plugs, valve cover gasket, IAC valve) to get the car up to par since I bought it.

However, it still has issues starting, especially after it gets warmed up.

I spoke with the previous owner and they said their local mechanic told them that a "module" was going bad, but didn't need immediately replaced, but would eventually go bad. So of course they didn't have it replaced and they said they thought it was some type of starter module. I am going to call this mechanic on Monday when I find his number to see if he remembers, but I was wondering if anyone else here has had this starting issue? I spoke to one other member who had all of his injectors replaced - still the same issue - and the mechanic feels it may be the starter solenoid.
 
Found this...

Found this comment on the net:

I believe there was TSB for this issue. The fix involved a Reflash of the PCM. IIRC, the problem occured occasionally when the engine shut down with the exhaust valves open on cylinder #1. With both valves open, the engine can't get compression when cranking and won't start.

Anyone had this done?
 
well - there is no 'starter' module - the PCM and relays are all that controls this (and the ignition switch).

It quote you found seems weird.... the starter would rotate the engine so how it stopped should not have any effect - right?
 
I am the member who has the same issue. I have done this so far: (02 V8)

Replaced all 8 injectors
Replaced fuel filter
Had PCM flashed
Replaced air filter
Valve cover gaskets
All 8 coil packs
All 8 spark plugs

My mechanic said that it is very possible that the starter selinoid (spelling ?) is going out. Especially since the problem I'm having seems to be once the engine has been warm.
Or he said I might have some missing teeth on my flywheel- but I'm pretty sure that I can rule this out. My dad's truck has missing teeth on the flywheel and it is something that you can really hear distinctly.
Anyone with any insight help us fellow LS brothers out...
 
Sensors?

Did you change the Camshaft Position Sensor or the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Reading up on this (especially the cam sensor) says that hard starting could be this issue.
 
the solenoid is integrated into the starter. Usually when it goes - you either hear the starter spin (high whine) with engaging the flywheel - or nothing happens at all - the car does not attempt to crank.
 
Sensors changed...

Well, changed the cam sensor and crank sensors this evening. Took the car for a 10 mile spin, parked it in the driveway, waited about 20 min., and same starting issue story.

So new:
MAF sensor
IAC valve
Spark Plugs
Coils
cam sensor
crank sensor
injectors were cleaned and tested

Next question is the fuel sender unit. The last owner was told by a mechanic that this may be the issue.
 
I do not have a gauge, but the dealership a while back (when the other owner had the car) wanted to change the exhaust gaskets.

Could the EGR valve be bad? Or could the intake gaskets be leaking?

I am kinda stuck here b/c when I had it at a Ford dealership (said Exhaust manifold gaskets) and was at the Lincoln dealership (service manager said probably wasn't intake), I got 2 different answers and another answer from the previous owner's mechanic (fuel sending unit).
 
From the girlfriend who wouldn't put dollar 1 in it, well engine that is. I knew that it had some issues when I bought it, but it is going to be my summer car. The interior and exterior are in pretty good shape for 102,000. The engine just needed some TLC. Had the 45 mph stutter issue (replaced coils and gasket) and MAF sensor issue. Still has the starting issue, but I am working on that battle.
 
Bought it with 67K and it has done it from day one. Mine only seems to do it recently when the engine is hot. Can someone point me in the direction of heat related start-up issues?
 
there was a TSB early on - it dealt with the engine flooding on lower than 40 degree

2000-2001 cars had a problem with Top Dead Center shutdowns. When the engine stops with any cylinder at top dead center on the exhaust stroke, then both intake and exhaust valves are open. If you have a vacuum in your manifold, a positive pressure in the exhaust, and open valves in between. The exhaust flows into the intake manifold - exhaust gas has very little oxygen, so when you start next time, it over-fuels and floods.

If you have a vacuum gauge, it's obvious when it will happen (manifold vacuum drops off slowly if you're not at TDC, but very quickly if it is).

The fix was just to hold the IAC valve open after shutdown, so you suck in fresh air instead of exhaust.

The TSB reflashes the PCM and replaces (or modifies) the IAC valve.
 
I think it's a fuel problem.
Have you changed the fuel filter?

Next before you start the car check the fuel pressure. If you don't have a gauge then at least press the test valve and see if any gas squirts out.

Does it start better if you hold the gas pedal open. If so I would suspect a leaking injector. But you have replaced them already?

Finally-are you sure it's not a fuel pump problem? I would get a fuel pressure tester and check the pressure at idle and then shut down the engine and watch the fuel pressure. It should hold pressure and NOT drop off any more then several pounds in 5 minutes.

Be aware that the LS has two fuel pumps. One to supply the engine and another "transfer" pump or jet pump to keep the two side of the fuel tank even.
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Well - as an FYI - 2000LSMichael has several threads on his issue - he already has swapped injectors, test fuel pressure, swapped IAC, ...etc
 
I also changed the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR this weekend and it did not change anything.

I am having the new ball joints replaced this week and then will schedule an appointment with the dealership to have the transmission fluid changed. While it is there, I will have them look at the problem and see if there is a vacuum issue. However, this is a shot in the dark because they are already scratching their heads since I changed most everything related to this (MAF, IAC, O2 sensors, cam sensor, crank sensor, DPF, injectors, coils, spark plugs, fuel filter). Only the EGR valve hasn't been replaced. So this leaves the intake and exhaust gaskets, fuel pressure sensor, fuel delivery module, and maybe something went on one of the two pumps (although these were supposively changed).

Michael
 
The starting issue that is whenever I run the car (or sometimes even start the car), and then shut it off after it is warm, it will not restart if I wait 5 or more minutes.

For example, today it fired right up. I drove it 15 miles to my friend's shop. After being there from 9:30 to 11:30, the car would not start.

It cranks over fine (no starter issues) but does not fire.

I am going to seriously look into what QUIKLS is saying about Vacuum issues. I noticed today when it finally started a "puff" of white exhaust came out.

I really think that it is getting fuel. I just have to beat Lincoln Luebbe and find out what the issue is first! :)
 
Good luck my friend! I seem to be having the exact same thing going on. Although I did have a fuel pressure test done a while back and they said it held pressure overnight. Like yours it only seems to be either when the car has been warmed up by driving then shut off for a little while, or when I first start it up and it it hot outside.
And I too get the whitish puff of exhaust, for a few seconds once it starts up. However it is not coolant, it has a really strong gasoline odor. I think it is just all the gas that is being dumped into the chamber while it cranks finally geting burned up. after a couple of seconds no exhaust odor or any smoke at all...
Keep me posted, I'll keep you posted!

P.S. What can anyone tell me about fuel pressure control module (I think that is what it is called)? I.E. where is it?
 
Ah, you are thinking along the same lines as I was in the original post!

I believe that this is located near/on/in the fuel tank if I am not mistaken. I think you are talking about the fuel sending unit.

This fuel sending unit is the part that a small shop mechanic wanted to change (I called him last week since he looked at the car over a year ago). However, he said that he could not positively identify the starting issue, but felt that it was the sending unit "module."
 
The LS is going to get the new ball joints, struts, and alignment on Thursday and then to the Lincoln dealership on Friday. Just scheduled the appointment to have the transmission fluid flushed/changed.

Told the service manager about the starting issue. I definately left him speechless after telling him about what I had changed (and not changed) and what I knew about the TSB's. He was going to double check the TSB's and take a look at it on Friday.

Thanks to QUICKLS, Lincoln Luebbe, and the others who have had input into this. If I get a solution, I will pass it on for the future.

FYI - also ordered R1 Concepts Perf. Rotors. Hope I am not disappointed - but this is just going to be a casual car (nice weather driving only).
 
Update

Dropped off the car this morning before the dealership opened. Didn't get serviced until the afternoon.

No firm reason for the starting issue....no surprise. They printed off a few TSB's and want me to look at one of them. Will give you an update when I pick it up in the morning.

This may be the Ghost starting issue.
 
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