spark plug changes in 95 Conti ?s

CobraConti

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How do you change the spark plugs on the rear 4 cyc facing the firewall? Looks damn near impossible!

Thanks
 
not shur about that but when i get my tun up i go to the garage couse i know the car needs to be timed i think they sed that
 
CobraConti said:
How do you change the spark plugs on the rear 4 cyc facing the firewall? Looks damn near impossible!

Thanks

With a good rachet, plenty of patience, and plenty of beer...
 
evillally said:
With a good rachet, plenty of patience, and plenty of beer...

do you come at it from the top or from up under the car? Any tips learned along the way? I am gonna do this soon. Any special type of rachet is better?

I know i need to search on this in the MarkVIII forum...........but what model of Autolite are people putting in the is supposed to give more power than the factory plug?
 
do you come at it from the top or from up under the car? Any tips learned along the way? I am gonna do this soon. Any special type of rachet is better?
The top. Any rachet will do. Try experimenting with different extensions until you find the one that's most comfotable for you.

I know i need to search on this in the MarkVIII forum...........but what model of Autolite are people putting in the is supposed to give more power than the factory plug?

Autolite 764, stock plug equilvelant.
Autolite 103, one setp colder than stock.
 
evillally said:
The top. Any rachet will do. Try experimenting with different extensions until you find the one that's most comfotable for you.



Autolite 764, stock plug equilvelant.
Autolite 103, one setp colder than stock.

sorry for the repeated n00b questions but i assume that one step colder is better? Do you know why it is better? Are there 2 steps colder, 3 steps colder, etc? Are there steps hotter? What does all these steps mean?
 
If your engine is stock, the stock sparks will do fine. If you have a chip or tune, go colder for timing/ anti-detonation purposes. Allegedly, colder plugs also help gas mileage, but I am unsure if that is true or not...
 
CobraConti said:
thanks for the info evilally.

in all cases ive seen the contis prefer the listed plats , but some get good results from the 764 coppers.do not use bosche.the plugs are easy if you simply unbolt the frame stiffiner first.be careful pulling the long boots out,if you need more slack undo that wire from the coil pack and feed it some slack.if you are going to change the plugs and havent or dont know the age of the plug wires then change them its good insurance to a good running car.use dialectric grease in the boots.if you pull the boots and see oil on them dont panic but DO go get a valve cover gasket set.pain in the arse to change but it must be done.the gaskets around the plug boots break down from age causing these leaks.unfixed and you will start blowing out 120.00 wiresets and killing plugs. :steering
 
I would suggest the Bosch Platinum 4's, despite what aristo1963 says. They last a long time, and don't need to be gapped. You don't want to have to be back behind that engine anymore than nessesary. I agree with aristo1963 on the wires, valve cover gasket and dielectic, but for you sake, put some anti-cease on the plugs as well to ensure they will come off easily after 100k. There is a special socket wrench sold at Checker that is made to get into tight places for that reason. I prefer a Snap-On 3/8" long socket wrench with the swival head and a 8" extension for that kinda job.

Take you time and work one plug at a time. Put a blanket on the engine and lay across it to work. It will be more comfortable and make the job easier. Have a good shop light too, you will need it. One of the long cylindrical flourescent ones is great for that kind of a job.

Just think, you won't have to do this for years to come! Enjoy!
 
white lincoln said:
I would suggest the Bosch Platinum 4's, despite what aristo1963 says. They last a long time, and don't need to be gapped. You don't want to have to be back behind that engine anymore than nessesary. I agree with aristo1963 on the wires, valve cover gasket and dielectic, but for you sake, put some anti-cease on the plugs as well to ensure they will come off easily after 100k. There is a special socket wrench sold at Checker that is made to get into tight places for that reason. I prefer a Snap-On 3/8" long socket wrench with the swival head and a 8" extension for that kinda job.

Take you time and work one plug at a time. Put a blanket on the engine and lay across it to work. It will be more comfortable and make the job easier. Have a good shop light too, you will need it. One of the long cylindrical flourescent ones is great for that kind of a job.

Just think, you won't have to do this for years to come! Enjoy!


sorry white it is a known fact the bosches are not good for this and many other engines go to flatrate tech and ask around.use sensor safe anti sieze and torque the plugs to do it properly.
 
thank you for all the responses! How often do ya'll change the plugs? I'm looking for optimum performance.
 
If you go with the Autolite coppers, change once a year. Platinums can go for much longer intervals...
 
Okay aristo1963. I'll take you up on that, but I need some more info before I beleive this. I ran them in both my 3.8l and I had no problems. Can you be more specific? What is your basis for your claim?

As for when to change the plugs, check you manual first. The book for the 96' Conti says first change is at 100k.
 
It's been my experience that Ford cars like Motorcraft plugs and nothing else. (They REALLY hate Bosch Platinums!) You get all kinds if wacky driveability problems and DTC codes that you wouldn't even look at the plugs as the problem for. You may be able to use the Autolite wires, but I'd go with the Motorcraft plugs.

--------------------
ASE Certified Automotive Technician
ASE Certified Parts Specialist
ASE Certified Service Consultant
Ford Certified Service Advisor

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by 95F150:
Beware the platinum plug.

A great invention with huge failure rates.

.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

HUH? The only ones I have ever seen or heard of having problems are Bosch. What you been smokin"?

--------------------
Dennis Weatherman
FRT Staff Tech
Ford Master Tech
ex-IAM Local 1101, District 190

Bosch Platinum plugs are the WORST thing that you can put in a Ford!! Known problem. Put a set for the correct Motocraft plugs in and see if the problem goes away.

--------------------
Jeff Korn

Definitely, get rid of those plugs; put Motorcrafts back in it. The TSB for the cylinder head, in my exprience, has been a misfire when coming up to a stop, on a decel. It usually would smooth out after a couple of seconds at idle. The valves would hang up on decel, and then at idle, they would un-stick, and the engine would smooth back out.

--------------------
Scott Olson
FRT Staff Member
solson@flatratetech.com
2005 UMTC 2nd Place; Chicago Region
Senior Master Technician
ASE Master Certified
Diesel Certified
SVT Certified

Originally posted by Jeff Korn:
What kind of plugs were used when they were replaced? Stock type Motorcraft, or some other brand, like Bosch? Plugs other than OEM specified ones can and will cause all kinds of problems.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Holy moley, how could I not think of that one? Good suggestion, Jeff, I also vote to reject those Bosch plugs, you'll probably find the problem solved afterwards.

--------------------
Dennis Weatherman
FRT Staff Tech
Ford Master Tech
ex-IAM Local 1101, District 190


just so you undertstand these guys are ford techs who work in the stalls everyday.they run this site to help guys like us that either cant or wont bring them to the dealers.and trust me if you understood the flatrate crap you would know the screwing these guys take.dealer makes the money they dont.
go to their site and look around they give great info to decent acting folks.their opinions matter very much to me.

as for me i was an l&m dealer tech in 88-90 after the navy got their 6 years,but due to the crap pay vs what the dealer took folks for i went industrial tech mech for the last 15 years.but i still stay up as much as i can spare the time for "da cars"

john
ps http://flatratetech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?/forum/26.html a search of bosch turned up 3 pages of info

they also have gm , daimler chrysler,and import sections with techs for each.
 
Very good point aristo1963. I will look at the site and add it to my Favorites list. Now that I think about it, the TC has motorcraft plugs in it and it runs great. The Cougar has,... well, I'm not sure. I will have to check.

I hope everyone has learned something from this.

thanks again -

-brad
 
after reading that i am sold on motorcraft plugs and parts. Can i run a colder motorcraft plug like some people are doing with the autolites?
 
Don't know. Maybe the guys on that site might have some suggestions. Be careful though... if you show any stupidity, they will attach you like hyenas...
 
white lincoln said:
Don't know. Maybe the guys on that site might have some suggestions. Be careful though... if you show any stupidity, they will attach you like hyenas...

not really white they are great guys.the only ones i see getting them pissed are backyard types who wont listen.a good example is a guy who goes by jfjohn.read the mess he asks and tries even when they give him very sage advice.he even attributed an overheat issue with driving his car with the wind to his back so the hot road air must have overheated him.he also has put like a quart of compressor oil in his a/c wouldnt have it evac'd yada yada yada.
you guys will like it there,treat em right and they will treat you better.
take care
john

as for the plug temps they will tell you whats best for your application.also they will run an oasis on a ford if you just ask for an oasis and give your vin.its interesting what you will find out ie..were tsb's ever done by previous owners was the car damaged in any way and required tech service...... :wrench
 
Ya, that was the guy I was talking about. As I said, if your stupid, don't go there, they won't tolerate it.

Wow! I can send them my VIN and they will check it for me? Cool. How do I do that on their site? I am registered already.

Thanks!
 
white lincoln said:
Ya, that was the guy I was talking about. As I said, if your stupid, don't go there, they won't tolerate it.

Wow! I can send them my VIN and they will check it for me? Cool. How do I do that on their site? I am registered already.

Thanks!
just make a post that says oasis please.then post vin and a thanks in the message body.
your very welcome
john
 
ok, the only oasis i know are the ones in the desert. What does oasis mean from Ford? That is a good website. I searched Contis and was doing some reading of my own. Apparently, Ford releases new versions of firmware for the PCM. Someone asked how much it was for a stealership to upgrade but there were no replies. I wonder if its even worth it.
 
CobraConti said:
after reading that i am sold on motorcraft plugs and parts. Can i run a colder motorcraft plug like some people are doing with the autolites?

Yes.

Copper
AWSFA-32-C: Stock
AWSFA-22-C: 1 step colder
AWSFA-12-C: 2 steps colder than stock

Platinum
AWSF-42-EE: 1 step hotter
AWSF-32-PP: Stock
AWSF-32-PP: 1 step colder than stock

Iridium:
AGSF-12FM1 2 steps colder
 
white lincoln said:
What would a colder plug do for a stock engine with no mods? Anything?

Nothing. A stock engine will not benefit from colder plugs...
 

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