So, does anyone have

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warrioralumni08

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A knife edged crank, and shaved rods? If not, what are your thoughts on this? I am just going to get a crank from ModMax, and was thinking of getting it knife edged and having the rods shaved. Then again, heard it's not worth what it costs. :shifty:
 
What are you expecting to gain from this? Is it still going in a Mark? Is it still going to be hooked to a 4R70? Is it a street car? A knive edge crank might free up a couple horsepower and would allow a race engine with a light flywheel to rev quicker, but most of that will be lost if it is hooked to a torque converter. The cost of the additional Malloy metal and time balancing would be hard for me to justify.

-Alan
 
94m5 said:
Reduced drag and weight equates to higher and quicker revving.

How much extra you talking?



Mike
Click to expand...

Not sure :shifty:

lobird91 said:
What are you expecting to gain from this? Is it still going in a Mark? Is it still going to be hooked to a 4R70? Is it a street car? A knive edge crank might free up a couple horsepower and would allow a race engine with a light flywheel to rev quicker, but most of that will be lost if it is hooked to a torque converter. The cost of the additional Malloy metal and time balancing would be hard for me to justify.

-Alan
Click to expand...

As stated, quicker revving, which in turn would get into the power band quicker. Yes, still in a Mark, and yes hooked to a 4R70W, and yes street car. Yes, I believe it some of it will be lost, but then add a lighter flywheel, yes I know it's auto, but it would help. In turn ,there is alot of rotating mass taken away. The little things do help, let's say my Mark gets a knife edged crank, lighter flywheel, shaved rods, and indexed plugs. All of these are little things, that would help I am sure, when pulled up to a stock Mark.
 
At your power level there are much cheaper ways to gain 5 hp, let me say it this way...my 1400hp 347 doesn't have a knife edged crank or lightened rods. For the $1000 dollars you will spend to cut the crank and rods and have everything rebalanced some one else could do headers and exhaust and gain much more power.

-Alan
 
knife edging

Spend your money somewhere else man --- do the 6 speed you know you want to!
Really everything is relative !
It won't make enough more power to make it faster than another car that has had some speed parts put on it - cams - gears - compression - manifolds and power adders and support . --
put a vacuum pump on the crankcase - that will give you more power than the knife edging.

PC070158.jpg
 
A light flywheel in a little car is fun... In a heavy street car like the mark, you would be pissed the first dozen or so times you stalled it; really pissed when you find out the clutch only lasted half what you thought it would because you had been slipping it so much stop light to stop light trying not to stall it.
 
Well, called a machine shop, about 45 minutes away. They know their stuff I hear. Anyone want to guess how much, balancing a rotating assembly, and getting a knife edged crank, is going to cost? :D
 
warrioralumni08 said:
Well, called a machine shop, about 45 minutes away. They know their stuff I hear. Anyone want to guess how much, balancing a rotating assembly, and getting a knife edged crank, is going to cost? :D
Click to expand...

Balancing a complete V8 is 300 here. Don't know price for knife.
 
250...total. ^_^ Asked, to balance a rotating assembly, 150 he said, then asked about knife edge crank, said that was 100, and then asked about head porting, just to be curious, 750. :/
 
The town, the machine shop is in, is no bigger then 20,000. Just got done talking on the phone with him. Owns 2 Corvettes, Chevelle 454 LS6, Camaros, AMC The Machine, great guy. Glad I was referred to him. He also had a spare 4.6 crank, standard size, said he would sell it to me for 100, and to bore the block .20 over, would cost 150, and a gear swap, would be 250. Pretty good deals! :D
 
Its your car but, 1 plug of mallory is 50 bucks. I would personally be weary of anyone quoting $150 balancing unless that is plus materials. The other prices seem close for a general machine shop. If you ar using a Teksid block you need to make sure it is torque plate bored with a liquid cooled machine otherwise it will shift during the boring process. I am all for saving money, and if you can get quality work for that price by all means do it, but in my experience machine work is not the place to try and save money.

-Alan
 
You're going to need head, crank, rod, and side bolts as the factory ones are 1 time use.
If you go ARP that's about $1K in hardware. You will also need the rods sized and a line bore. It adds up quick on a mod motor.
 
I am probably not going to get it bored anyways, just a thought. Also, I thought the side bolts were obsolete?
 
Mmr and arp both sell side bolts. I think you can still get the factory style but they are one time use only.
 
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