Slow 96

The_purple_lincoln_slayer

The_purple_lincoln_slayer

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Ok my new 96 basically just runs slow for some reason. I have no idea whats up. My 94 dominated everything! This car ran amazing and smooth for the first day or so after i started driving it. It had been sittin up for a while so i ran fuel injector cleaner and v-power only, to clean the fuel system up, then did all Synthetic flueds. No help at all. Also my abs light, check engine light , and parking break light(which isnt pushed down) are all on! Scanner said o2 sensors for check engine, so im gunna clean those. And it said abs was fine!! And when the abs light comes on trac assist goes off and wont come on! And the parking break is just a bad sensor. So any advise??? I dont even feel confident lined up to hondas any more. Help me. Thanks
 
If it were me, i would replace the O2s, clean up the ABS trigger wheels and sensors and inspect their wiring / connectors.

I had a problem with the park brake light coming on also - i just lubed the ratchet mechanism. (the brake wasnt fully coming off due to stickiness, therefore not putting enough pressure on switch to break circuit)
 
Are you sure the parking break did not bind up? That would cause drag for sure and possibly explain the light.

As blue said, replace 02 sensors, but no need to do the rears, just the ones before the cats. Those are the ones that tell the ECU what's going on. The rearward ones only monitor the cats to make sure they are working. However, get the exact codes. If a rear one is showing an error, maybe you have a clogged cat.
 
If the car just doesn't rip I would check that the IMCR's are opening. When I first drove my 94 they werent' opening, but after a bit they started too and there was a noticable difference in power.
 
Ok how do i clean the ABS trigger wheel and sensors? And what are IMCR's and how do i check them? I think a have a leak behing my right cat, and i know i have one on my left downpipe on a weld. Could that cause some of those problems? Oh yeah and the parking break doesnt even work anymore.
 
ABS ring: remove wheels and clean the teeth well. You will see where the sensor reads the teeth, carefully clean and inspect.

IMRCs: You happen to know older engines? Its like a carburetor plate, in this case the secondary. But like, not the same. When you pass 3k rpm (about) they change position to help maintain power throughout the RPM climb. Really an great Ford "invention", until they get stuck. To clean you can try the SeaFoam treatment. Try a search for "seafoam".

Breaks in the welds is not good. In fact, I never heard of it happening on a Mark VIII. Its stainless, so it holds up really well. Maybe its the EGR tube, those break and leak and could cause a major vacuum leak if the valve is also stuck open.
 
does the "parking lamp" (red brake light?) and the abs light come on at the same time? i ask cuz if the abs module sees low fluid in the master cylinder reservoir it will disable the abs to prevent pulling air into the sys. start simple check brake fluid level pad life.
*ninja edit* the red (brake!) light is also used for hydraulic failure
 
^^ good one! I couldnt remember if the same light illuminated for low fluid, as well as for park brake. (although id like to think he checked his brake fluid level as the first step in trouble shooting)

Just to elaborate a little on ABS sensor cleaning: The 'cowboy method' would just involve spraying them at a car wash and hoping it turns the light off. The better method, as unity said, involves brushing off the toothed wheels and cleaning the sensor heads - they are magnetic and attract iron particles.

FYI: Front trigger wheels and sensors behind brake discs, rears are INBOARD, either side of the diff housing.
 
Ok the leak in the exaust is on a aftermarket exaust. Il check the rest tho. and the parking lights been on Way before the abs light.
 
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