Shorted Alternator

[mistermaclincoln]

Well everyone, my 95 LSC alternator burn up at the main connector on my way home from work last night. Radio/CD player and attenna started turning off and on, battery light came on and the ABS light came on. Then the message center message stated to check the starting system. Luckily I was close to home. At startup I always hear a sweaking sound coming from a pulley so I thought it was coming from a belt pulley so I took the belt off and turned them and they are fine. The altenator pulley is a little noisey when turning put turns pretty good. I check the the voltage while running and it was at 9.7 volts so I shut it down and I am checking for shorts from the altenator, fuses. Haven't found anything yet. Also, I have charged my battery and I am going to pickup a new alternator. What do y'all think!!

 

[chris2523]

i think you need a new alternator.

 

[chris2523]

when you say burnt up at the main connector, what is the main connector?
the heavy gauge power wire, or the 3 wire plug in?

 

[mistermaclincoln]

The main connector (heavy gage wire) that connects to the altenator. When I touch the lead the connector was melted and it fell off.

 

[chris2523]

the mark viii wire is notoriously undersized. there is a chance that replacing that wire with 4 gauge straight to the battery may fix your charging issue.
it will definitely help if you replace the alternator.

i suggest 4 gauge from alternator to battery positive, chassis to battery ground, engine block to battery ground.
this is the "big 3." cures most alternator undercharging issues and will make your new alternator last longer.

 

[mistermaclincoln]

Hey Chris, so making the pipe bigger makes sense. Since I am there I am going try this. I tried to follow the negitive lead to ground and the way it is run is kind of a pita. At least I will be able to check all the grounds. I will let you know how all of this works out. Thank for all you help.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

Question, Does the factory + lead from alt to battery need to stay in place when upgrading the wire? Some cars require it even when upgrading the wire. I did the big 3 but removed the 4awg + wire cause the alt cover wouldn't fit with both factory 10awg(?) and my 4 awg on there.

 

[chris2523]

Question, Does the factory + lead from alt to battery need to stay in place when upgrading the wire?

no. not on the mark.
hmm. wheres my camera.

my setup:

4 gauge red wire is from the alternator main post to battery positive.
4 gauge black wire is from the alternator case to battery negative. this is a ground for the alt and engine block.


alright. battery side now.

positive terminal:
here you see the other end of the red wire from the alt.
yellow 4 gauge wire goes to my stereo system in the trunk.
under the yellow wire is a blue piece of 4 gauge that runs to the power distribution box, with all the fuses and stuff.
you can see the factory 4 gauge for the starter is still there.
and the small red wire is for the relay system on my HIDs.

negative terminal:
the stock not quite 4 gauge engine ground. bolts on somewhere down by the starter.
my short 4 gauge chassis ground. bolts straight to a factory grounding point just under the black cover.
the additional black 4 gauge wire that runs over to the alt, shown in previous picture.
and then finally some more factory wires that i just put a lug on.

of course, all of this isn't necessary, but it all helps.
i highly suggest the 4 gauge wire between the battery and alternator on both the positive and negative sides.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

Nice, thanks Chris.

Guess i'll have something to do this weekend, well for 10 minutes anyways.

 

[NoLimit95]

Nice, thanks Chris.

Guess i'll have something to do this weekend, well for 10 minutes anyways.

and then you'll be bored again.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

and then you'll be bored again.

Indeed




I think I still have the wires,150a fuse and terminals still wired together for a quick install too.

 

[mistermaclincoln]

Nice Chris, one more question. Is there a kit for this or do will I have to cut and crip everything myself?

Thanks

 

[Lownslowlsc]

Nice Chris, one more question. Is there a kit for this or do will I have to cut and crip everything myself?

Thanks

Cut and crimp yourself.



Fyi: If buying the copper ring terminals don't get them in in the pack of 2 ect..When I was looking they were like $7 for 2 at lowes, 5 bucks for 2 at hd.. Ace hardware sells them seperatly for a buck and change each for 0awg, cheaper if smaller. And as i'm sure most of us have done, have fun making up your own price on the bag. At mine they have them in the auto section and not with the rest of the individual nuts/bolts/fastners. I however couldn't find them till after the fact so I went another cheaper route.

 

[JDS353]

also make sure you clean the terminals good and use silver solder if u solder them on the wire. clean the ground points and use dielectric compound to cut down on corrision. 2x on up sizeing the wire gauge. jd

 

[chris2523]

yep. its all do it your self.

interesting. i've never seen the terminals at ace. i'll look closer next time i'm there.

like jd said. solder makes for better connections and silver solder is great stuff.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

yep. its all do it your self.

interesting. i've never seen the terminals at ace. i'll look closer next time i'm there.like jd said. solder makes for better connections and silver solder is great stuff.

At mine they were pretty much by themselves(little grey bins) on the bottom shelf seperated from all the rest of the diff wire connections an aisle over. Maybe by the auto batteries they sell. I can't remember, but they are over there.