shift kits 98 mark lsc

That article looks worthless to me as it does not specify and show a diagram of which holes to drill out and at what diameter. Just sayin' ;)
 
picture24.jpg


that's the picture that did it for me.
add that too

d94.jpg


and that's really all you need.
 
http://www.robstireandauto.com/products.html
this is better
http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/...r70w/4r70w-plate-style-shift-kit/prod_62.html

they sell them here with detailed instr.as well. unless you are doing it yourself, i dont care who you are, unless you are very meticulous mechanichally inclined person have someone who has taken a tranny valvebody out, apart whatever yes its easy if your used to getting your hands dirty, youll still have to buy parts from ford as chris pointed out for different desired shifting,different holes and springs will be needed with some kits as well, springs, filter,etc.but chris is also very good mechanically if your thinking of paying someone to do it then maybe buying the whole valvebody done already and doing it yourself is a ton easier just unbolt the valvebody and replace, done. there are alot of balls and the placement of the springs, firmness of the springs, the diameter of the holes will all affect the firmness of the shift, THEN, depending what year you have, a chip or tune on the tranny may e nessecary to increase line pressure for the desired shift firmness. i just built a brand new tranny,. they had to go in twice to get the valvebody where it should be, then yes it shifted faster right into second and drive,but after the new tuneit will chirp the gears in second and grab hard in drive yes j mods are great, but be aware of what you are trying to accomplish because it just might annoy the hell out of you banging into second in traffic or daily driving.
 
the1andonlygr81 said:
http://www.robstireandauto.com/products.html
this is better
http://www.dirtydogperformance.com/...r70w/4r70w-plate-style-shift-kit/prod_62.html

they sell them here with detailed instr.as well. unless you are doing it yourself, i dont care who you are, unless you are very meticulous mechanichally inclined person have someone who has taken a tranny valvebody out, apart whatever yes its easy if your used to getting your hands dirty, youll still have to buy parts from ford as chris pointed out for different desired shifting,different holes and springs will be needed with some kits as well, springs, filter,etc.but chris is also very good mechanically if your thinking of paying someone to do it then maybe buying the whole valvebody done already and doing it yourself is a ton easier just unbolt the valvebody and replace, done. there are alot of balls and the placement of the springs, firmness of the springs, the diameter of the holes will all affect the firmness of the shift, THEN, depending what year you have, a chip or tune on the tranny may e nessecary to increase line pressure for the desired shift firmness. i just built a brand new tranny,. they had to go in twice to get the valvebody where it should be, then yes it shifted faster right into second and drive,but after the new tuneit will chirp the gears in second and grab hard in drive yes j mods are great, but be aware of what you are trying to accomplish because it just might annoy the hell out of you banging into second in traffic or daily driving.
Click to expand...

I actually wish I had adjusted the 1-2 shift to hit harder. No lie, my 2-3 shift hits harder than my 1-2 which may sound impossible, but one ride in my TBird with show you otherwise (I put the bottom spring in my 1-2 because I was afraid it would hit too hard like you pointed out, 1andonlygr81).
 
Once it's JMODDED, tuning has a lot to do with the rest of it. I have all of the springs in both accumulators and the ass-end will leave trails of rubber into second gear. Remember, the tuner can adjust line pressure depending on throttle position parameters. My tuner did ok to that respect because it shifts like a stock car under light throttle without the slippage of course. Other than certain conditions at WOT throttle that I do not like regarding lock-up and shift points, the driveability is surprisingly very stock even with a 3800 stall converter under normal driving conditions.

On the contrary, one of my buddies with a modded Crown Vic removed one of the springs for the 1-2 and it shifted WAY too hard in my opinion even under light throttle which is probably a combination of the lower spring being gone and tuning parameters. He had so many transmissions in and out of the car that he couldn't keep track. Do it right and have a good tune or you will destroy hard parts in the transmission if you go too wild. If it were me, I would leave all of the springs in with minimal line pressure in the tune. But that's just me and I am rocking the hell out of a $150 salvage yard transmission out of a 99 Vic with about 80K+ miles on it now and let me tell you, it shifts nasty. Picture 3rd gear squawk at 80mph. I even managed that ON DRAG RADIALS on a cold street a couple times. (The previous transmission dilemma I was dealing with had nothing to do with what we are talking about here in case you are wondering and that douchebag had his business shut down shortly after I went there.)
 
KStromberg said:
Once it's JMODDED, tuning has a lot to do with the rest of it. I have all of the springs in both accumulators and the ass-end will leave trails of rubber into second gear. Remember, the tuner can adjust line pressure depending on throttle position parameters. My tuner did ok to that respect because it shifts like a stock car under light throttle without the slippage of course. Other than certain conditions at WOT throttle that I do not like regarding lock-up and shift points, the driveability is surprisingly very stock even with a 3800 stall converter under normal driving conditions.

On the contrary, one of my buddies with a modded Crown Vic removed one of the springs for the 1-2 and it shifted WAY too hard in my opinion even under light throttle which is probably a combination of the lower spring being gone and tuning parameters. He had so many transmissions in and out of the car that he couldn't keep track. Do it right and have a good tune or you will destroy hard parts in the transmission if you go too wild. If it were me, I would leave all of the springs in with minimal line pressure in the tune. But that's just me and I am rocking the hell out of a $150 salvage yard transmission out of a 99 Vic with about 80K+ miles on it now and let me tell you, it shifts nasty. Picture 3rd gear squawk at 80mph. I even managed that ON DRAG RADIALS on a cold street a couple times. (The previous transmission dilemma I was dealing with had nothing to do with what we are talking about here in case you are wondering and that douchebag had his business shut down shortly after I went there.)
Click to expand...

That is VERY true. You should make the holes too big instead of too small - a tuner can always turn down the pressure, but if the holes aren't physically big enough, it's a lot harder to turn up the pressure.
 
another thingb to remember, just with the mod, shift improver kit, whatever it will shift without slippage or lag and it may seem that theres no improvement at all, the real advantage is in the tune. stick to your goals and what you want out of your ride. i built all my rides to beat on, always have. but its also costs too. with firmer shifts, old trannies can go faster (die), u joints, rear ends you get the idea.
 
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