I have a really bad screeching sound coming from the driver side when I turn the steering wheel. The sound is more audible when the car is not in motion and I can also feel a vibration in the steering wheel for the first second I turn it and it returns to normal. The reservoir has the fluid up to the MAX line. Any thoughts?
Screeching sound when turning steering wheel
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RigsLS
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despite the full fluid in the power steering reservoir, it is running dry, as in,
not getting lubricated. just because the fluid is full doesn't mean it's actually
getting pumped to where it needs it when it needs it .. thus the screeching sound.
Joegr will correct me if needed but IMO thats steering box is running dry.
Power steering pump is done or rack is bad. ( my bet )
not getting lubricated. just because the fluid is full doesn't mean it's actually
getting pumped to where it needs it when it needs it .. thus the screeching sound.
Joegr will correct me if needed but IMO thats steering box is running dry.
Power steering pump is done or rack is bad. ( my bet )
Well I do have a small leak from the power steering. But I can usually see the circulation going on in the the reservoir. I can't really see anything now since it's night time and thankfully I was close to home before anything big happened. I'll check in the morning to see if I'm still getting circulation. Is it hard to replace the pump if necessary?
RigsLS
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here, check your last post on this subject in this thread here:
June 30th, 2012, 01:42 PM
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=84030
June 30th, 2012, 01:42 PM
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=84030
RigsLS
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I know Big Rigs and I get into a loaner or other rides and hear this noise often.
Sometimes, it's only when extended to one side or the other, the screeching noise that is.
never really dealt with it before on regular cars but it's the same to an extent.
Just got mine back from our shop and they re & re'd the intermediate steering shaft as it had way too much play developed in it, nice and tight again. no more wandering. no more kissing the zipper or the gator back lines.
new windshield, new mirror backing covers, AC fixed again, 2500W Inverter installed,
some 12 volts fixed in the bunk, lights in the instrument console replaced, new fuel cap seals,
seat belt retentioner, steering wheel true centered, little horn fixed, new CB antennas,
Lube, Oil and Filter, headlights were send out for refurbish back in and aimed correctly.
5th wheel kingpin jaw free play tightned up, steering wheel rattle corrected with new nylon washer/shims, slack adjusters tightened and I'm on my way this sunday to the West of Canada for a week and half.
gotta put my seat covers, XM satelite, Kenwood head unit and 10" pre-amped Bazooka Base tube back in, hook up my 12volts gadgets and put the old 13" color TV and Xbox back in, coffee maker and toaster. stock the fridge up and I'm off this sunday late evening. Money Money Money .... good easy trip back and forth, boat load of miles,
with hotel stays and meal expenses.
Kicking it tight with a 53' trailer all day, all night ... LOL
Sometimes, it's only when extended to one side or the other, the screeching noise that is.
never really dealt with it before on regular cars but it's the same to an extent.
Just got mine back from our shop and they re & re'd the intermediate steering shaft as it had way too much play developed in it, nice and tight again. no more wandering. no more kissing the zipper or the gator back lines.
new windshield, new mirror backing covers, AC fixed again, 2500W Inverter installed,
some 12 volts fixed in the bunk, lights in the instrument console replaced, new fuel cap seals,
seat belt retentioner, steering wheel true centered, little horn fixed, new CB antennas,
Lube, Oil and Filter, headlights were send out for refurbish back in and aimed correctly.
5th wheel kingpin jaw free play tightned up, steering wheel rattle corrected with new nylon washer/shims, slack adjusters tightened and I'm on my way this sunday to the West of Canada for a week and half.
gotta put my seat covers, XM satelite, Kenwood head unit and 10" pre-amped Bazooka Base tube back in, hook up my 12volts gadgets and put the old 13" color TV and Xbox back in, coffee maker and toaster. stock the fridge up and I'm off this sunday late evening. Money Money Money .... good easy trip back and forth, boat load of miles,
with hotel stays and meal expenses.
Kicking it tight with a 53' trailer all day, all night ... LOL
RigsLS
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Almost forgot, need to rinse out my pee bottle, transfer my freshly washed sleeping bag and pillow back in to my unit as well.
you see, I was in a loaner for a few days this week and it had that same schreeching noise but only when fully extended to either side, fluid was up all the way, something
on it's way out on the loaner but not my problem now.
you see, I was in a loaner for a few days this week and it had that same schreeching noise but only when fully extended to either side, fluid was up all the way, something
on it's way out on the loaner but not my problem now.
Well it seems to be a lower ball joint that is causing the squeak. I ordered another one from eBay for $24 shipped to my door in 3 days. Now the question is, can I drive with this current ball joint? I don't hear it popping or anything, just a really bad squeak like it's losing grease.
04_Sport_LS
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So you are saying that just the ball joint was replaced, and not the whole lower control arm assembly??? Although the ball joints are sold seperately, and can be relaced in lieu of the whole arm, if not done properly, it will damage the hole the ball joint fits into. The issue is when pressing out the old ball joint, the hole becomes distorted, and the new ball joint will not fit tightly in the hole. This is a know issue with just replacing the ball joint.
You may want to take another look under the car, and make sure that the ball joint is not rotating in the contol arm. If it is, the contol arm is junk, and you will have to replace the whole control arm assembly, (which includes ball joint). If the ball joint is rotating in the contol arm, and you just try replacing the ball joint again, you are an accident waiting to happen!
If the ball joint is not rotating in the control arm, you may be able to replace it again without issue, but I would recommend buying a better ball joint. Rock Auto has MOOG parts, which can be shipped to your door for about $80, depending on your model year. This may seem expensive, but compared to the whole control arm assembly for about $350, it's cheap. Keep in mind, you get what you pay for.
Hope this helps.
---Mike---