Saga of P2110 and P2107

[Fatmac]

Back story, I had taken the car in for transmission work. Got the trans rebuilt and they said that they couldn't get it to shift right so they changed out the PCM. It took them several PCMs and a new set of keys to get it working. Had to take it back because the traction control light was on. yet another PCM. Got that fixed and drove off, after about 6 months the hard shifts and jerking into reverse I took it back it was still under warranty. Had the car for over a month, didn't want to rush them. Got it back, new battery another PCM and a broken window regulator on the front passenger side. Barely made it home and the shop is only 5 miles away.
The car kept going into limp mode turn it off and crank back up only to go about 500 ft and repete till I got it home parked it bought a new coil for #4 and plug. Not much change. I had some old coils from the last tune up and swapped out all 4 on that side and it seemed to work
for a day. Today I have replaced all coils and plugs runs much smoother. Made about a 25 mile test drive and back to throwing the two codes 2110 and 2107. let it cool down, and me too, Went back out cranked her up ran for about 15 mins and started going back into limp mode. Turn it off and re-crank and 60 sec back into limp mode. So what next a new throttle body?
Thanks
Jack

 

[joegr]

What brand coils? Did you verify the plug gap to be 1.0mm?

 

[Fatmac]

What brand coils? Did you verify the plug gap to be 1.0mm?

M104 from Araparts gaped at .039

 

[joegr]

I'd put good (Motorcraft) coils in before I blamed the throttle body.

 

[Fatmac]

Thanks for your input Joe but I can't afford to go with Motorcraft. I'm on a limited budget.

 

[McBeetus]

Thanks for your input Joe but I can't afford to go with Motorcraft. I'm on a limited budget.

Did you ever get this resolved? In the same boat. Have already replaced Throttle Body. Have not changed plugs though

 

[RigsLS]

Lot of aftermarket crap budget coils available on the market. Some so bad, they've proven defective straight out of the box.
That's not to say there are some decent coils out there which many of members have had some success with BUT ... this LS really only likes OEM coils. It's so sensitive on the ignition electronics! The slightest misfire from a bad marginal or failing coil and the troubles begin.

Even the dealerships, have specific instructions to only replace the failing coil and nothing more, so as time goes on, many LS'es end up with all mismatched coils and plugs and never end up running just right. Think of the fact, it's gotten one coil replaced, leaves the shop with the remaining coils and plugs all tired and old, ready to fail next. You strengthen something up in one area, it'll put more stress on the remaining units which are ready to go next.

At end of day, a proper correct tune up, consists of all new OEM coils and fresh plugs.
Never do we step out of the shower and only put one fresh sock on.

Keep in mind, a PCM that's subjected to constant RFI from nearby misfiring coils, can and will ruin the internals of any PCM and it doesn't take much, keep driving it like that and it's on it's way out. PCM's do not take kind to Electrical distortion.

Have a read here at the "reviews" on said OEM coils.
https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcraft-DG529-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001SPT7N2

This car does best on it's original OEM recommended coils. Others come close but often fail.


~ Replace all coils with OEM Motorcraft DG529's.
~ Replace all plugs with NGK irridiums, ensure proper gapping.
~ Inspect and verify all coil connector clips and wiring harnesses.
~ Ensure no water or oil down/around plug wells,

if so will need complete VC's mainly internal plug well O-ring gaskets.​

~ Inspect coil cover inlay gaskets, note harness entry at back needs sealing off.
~ Gently clean Mass Air Flow sensor.
~ Ensure no un-metered air intrudes in past MAF sensor. (check entire plastic intake)
~ Install new fresh air breather/filter.
~ Replace fuel filter located in driver's side front wheel well.
~ Add STP fuel injector cleaner into fresh full tank of premium fuel.


.

 

[Michaelait]

Lot of aftermarket crap budget coils available on the market. Some so bad, they've proven defective straight out of the box.
That's not to say there are some decent coils out there which many of members have had some success with BUT ... this LS really only likes OEM coils. It's so sensitive on the ignition electronics! The slightest misfire from a bad marginal or failing coil and the troubles begin.

Even the dealerships, have specific instructions to only replace the failing coil and nothing more, so as time goes on, many LS'es end up with all mismatched coils and plugs and never end up running just right. Think of the fact, it's gotten one coil replaced, leaves the shop with the remaining coils and plugs all tired and old, ready to fail next. You strengthen something up in one area, it'll put more stress on the remaining units which are ready to go next.

At end of day, a proper correct tune up, consists of all new OEM coils and fresh plugs.
Never do we step out of the shower and only put one fresh sock on.

Keep in mind, a PCM that's subjected to constant RFI from nearby misfiring coils, can and will ruin the internals of any PCM and it doesn't take much, keep driving it like that and it's on it's way out. PCM's do not take kind to Electrical distortion.

Have a read here at the "reviews" on said OEM coils.
https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcraft-DG529-Ignition-Coil/dp/B001SPT7N2

This car does best on it's original OEM recommended coils. Others come close but often fail.


~ Replace all coils with OEM Motorcraft DG529's.
~ Replace all plugs with NGK irridiums, ensure proper gapping.
~ Inspect and verify all coil connector clips and wiring harnesses.
~ Ensure no water or oil down/around plug wells,

if so will need complete VC's mainly internal plug well O-ring gaskets.​

~ Inspect coil cover inlay gaskets, note harness entry at back needs sealing off.
~ Gently clean Mass Air Flow sensor.
~ Ensure no un-metered air intrudes in past MAF sensor. (check entire plastic intake)
~ Install new fresh air breather/filter.
~ Replace fuel filter located in driver's side front wheel well.
~ Add STP fuel injector cleaner into fresh full tank of premium fuel.


.

I had 6 P codes all concerning throttle body. I replaced: entire throttle body. All coils. All spark plugs. Engine would STILL throw the same 6 codes and go into limp mode. The fix? CLEANING THE MAF sensor. I removed it by taking out the two screws. Placed a rag under it and sprayed it REAL GOOD. (with MAF spray). I let it dry. Screwed back in and tested LS. She is running beautiful. I have the standard air filter arrangement. I wish I had cleaned the MAF before I replaced all those parts, but the P codes threw me off. Hope this helps somebody out there.

 

[joegr]

I had 6 P codes all concerning throttle body. ...

And that should have told you that it wasn't coils/plugs. The specific combinations of codes do point you in the right direction, if you know how to interpret them. Several things can cause ETC failsafe, including some ABS issues.