Rough low idle then dies

davemeradith

davemeradith

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my 2000 ls was idlin bad and CEL said 1st cylinder misfire... easy enough replaced coil pack... NOT!!! CEL back on now idlin SUPER bad to the point it usually dies when at a light or stop sign.... so it got worse! could this be a timing chain? maybe a MAF? i havnt checked new CEL code (jus moved to cali. and they dont do it free, and you cant even get a scanner loaner tool :mad: BS!) but i think im jus gona bring it to a shop... ive always been a DIY guy and i hate goin to auto shops but im runn outta options and im defeated... any helpful suggestions?
 
Unplug the MAF sensor, start it and see what happens.

Also does it run fine when you have the gas pedal pressed down? Could be a clogged/faulty IAC valve.
 
i replaced all plugs not even 5k agen and COPs on ebay (i purchased a bunch and made this repair before so quality of coils is fine, unless 1 got damaged somehow) ill go try to unplug MAF right now it runs perfect on freeway but dies almost every stop even pulln into drive it died
 
davemeradith said:
i replaced all plugs not even 5k agen and COPs on ebay (i purchased a bunch and made this repair before so quality of coils is fine, unless 1 got damaged somehow) ill go try to unplug MAF right now it runs perfect on freeway but dies almost every stop even pulln into drive it died
Click to expand...

It's probably your IAC.
 
unplugged MAF and it actually ran a lil better! what does that mean tho? lol does that confirm the IAC problem? or is the MAF bad?
 
davemeradith said:
unplugged MAF and it actually ran a lil better! what does that mean tho? lol does that confirm the IAC problem? or is the MAF bad?
Click to expand...

A lot better points to the MAF.
A little better points to the MAF, or the IAC, or an air leak.
 
it sounds lots better but it also sounded like total :q:q:q:qe lol so its hard to pinpoint problem maybe ill jus replace both thanks for all the help guys btw do you think the PCV could be a factor?
 
davemeradith said:
it sounds lots better but it also sounded like total :q:q:q:qe lol so its hard to pinpoint problem maybe ill jus replace both thanks for all the help guys btw do you think the PCV could be a factor?
Click to expand...

The V8 doesn't have a PCV valve (it does still have a PCV system) and PCV problems seem to be rare on it. The V6 is fairly well known for problems with the PCV elbow at the PCV valve splitting. That could be the air leak that I mentioned.
 
perfect wont worry bout pcv i have a v8 non sport ill replace IAC for sure if i order a MAF too should i get housing too or jus sensor?
2000sport-60 on rockauto not 30
 
I would start by simply cleaning the MAF and IAC. Also, have you removed the engine cover and checked all hoses are connected securely to the air intake tube?

If none of that works, change the IAC valve.
 
i read somewhere u cant clean jus replace IAC? n idk how to clean either one do i jus take apart n use compressed air? i havnt disconnected any hoses but i will go pop hood n check while i get parts out to clean
 
You can buy MAF cleaner at any parts store. I don't recall off hand what you should use on the IAC. I've used carb cleaner, but I've read specifically NOT to use it (after I used it, of course.) I want to say to use throttle body cleaner, but please confirm this before actually using it.

Both parts obviously need to be removed to clean. Make sure you don't lose the gasket from IAC to TB.
 
30 for the Standard Motors part. 32 free shipping for same thing on eBay. I would know, I ordered one on Monday.
 
pektel said:
... I don't recall off hand what you should use on the IAC. I've used carb cleaner, but I've read specifically NOT to use it (after I used it, of course.) I want to say to use throttle body cleaner, but please confirm this before actually using it.

Both parts obviously need to be removed to clean. Make sure you don't lose the gasket from IAC to TB.
Click to expand...

Throttle body safe cleaner is correct.
 
i ran out of time to pull parts today but i will 1st thing in morn. n clean then post update i will probably end up ordern a IAC i appreciate all the help so far
2000sport-correct $30 for yours but youre only rockn a V-6 the V-8 IAC is $60 thanks for the help bro
 
Sorry Dave - I was under the impression they were the same between V6 and V8.
Thanks for the info.
 
pektel said:
I would start by simply cleaning the MAF and IAC. Also, have you removed the engine cover and checked all hoses are connected securely to the air intake tube?

If none of that works, change the IAC valve.
Click to expand...



+1 check all hoses to make sure there are no leaks and no lose electrical plugs and no cracked or broken hoses and while your at it might as well clean all the electrical connections with MAF cleaner too.
 
pulled n cleaned both IAC and MAF checked any hoses and electricals then cleaned then before pluggn back n seemed maybe a lil better but nothing extreme jus ordered IAC online tom. i have some one with a scanner thats gona give me codes from CEL since i unplugged MAF should i expect that code? then its just waitn for the IAC then ill update again so thanks every one please check back in case im still in need lol
 
I'd assume that running the car with the MAF disconnected would result in an out-of-range code from the MAF
 
problem

man your in for more of an issue than you probablly think. The dealer is the only one who would even try to fix it for me and were so incompitant it still isnt right and has the rough idle. Does yours usually do it when cold? Can you feel the car shaking back and forth it seems, fluctuating rpms, bucking when first taking off and stopping. I replaced all coils, changes gasket covers, changed a bower break booster and then was told the coil wasnt "right" that I brought in which i bought off advanced auto after they did all this work and light still was on with rough idle. So I allow them to replace coil thinking well what else to lose and it still has the idle ive already spent close to 2,000 with no solution. I am beginning to hear stories of the IAC which im pretty sure is the idle control. And the the PCV hose I asked the dealer about both these issues and they shrugged my suggestions and went along with what they said would fix it. If you come to a conclusion please contact me i'm at the end of my ropes and am gonna need to sell soon thanks.
 
i wouldnt give up bro ive had this problem before and just changed the corresponding plugs and coils myself (i need to do VCG) and it was fixed its just a worse problem this time because its dying which makes me think its something more like IAC (yes this is idle air control valve) or MAF i have a v8 so i dont have the PCV but if i were you i would check those 3 things 1st btw all these jobs are DIY i dont take my car to a dealer unless its necessary im sure the problem lies within the above components

UPDATE-ebay messed up card #/order resolved issue and NOW the IAC has been ordered and on its way probably wont be til beginning of next week but as soon as its here im slappn it on then ill update with results
 
if it runs fine at high speeds and dies at idle u need to

listen for a hissing sound maybe u have a vacuum leak check all hoses after MAF as this will make the car stall and produce a lean condition during cruise speeds.

you need to remove the air intake and clean the throttle plate as it will be very likely dirty this could also cause the car to stall at idle if the plate is stuck open it would kill the engine at idle.

the idle air control valve could very well be the problem, with the car running grab a screw driver and w the plastic end tap the valve lightly, sometimes they get stuck with gunk, if the idle gets better then u can remove it and soak it with a solvent such as carburetor cleaner.

the MAF could also make it run rough u can clean it with starting fluid or maf cleaner


get the codes and post em

--ohh and fcuk the dealers
 
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