Replacing the starter...

[Science Abuse]

I poked around the interwebs and found a great thread, so I thought I'd put it here under the above title, to make it a bit more easy to find using the search function. I may undertake this job on my Gen2 this week, if I don't chicken out and take it to a shop. I'll update with what I find.

Gen 1 vs Gen 2, as usual, are different:
http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/d...c&forum=21&topic_id=75329&mesg_id=75329&page=

1995 Lincoln Mark VIII V8-4.6L DOHC Copyright © 2009, ALLDATA 10.10 Page 1
Starter Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
WARNING: When servicing starter or performing any maintenance in the area of starter, note the heavy gauge input lead connected to the
starter solenoid is hot at all times. Make sure the protective cap is installed over the terminal and is replaced after service.
NOTE : When battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM) relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect starter cable and push-on connector from starter solenoid.
CAUTION : When disconnecting hard-shell connector at S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off. Do not pull on wire. Be careful to
pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and the S-terminal. If any part of the connection is damaged, replace the damaged
components.
5. Remove upper and middle mounting bolts.
6. Remove lower mounting bolt and starter.
Installation
1. Position starter motor to engine and install middle and lower bolts finger-tight.
2. Tighten the upper bolt to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft).
3. Tighten the lower and middle bolts to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft).
4. Connect starter solenoid connector. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a notable click or detent.
5. Install starter cable to starter terminal. Tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in).
6. Replace red starter solenoid safety cap.
7. Lower vehicle to floor.
8. Connect battery ground cable.

My 98 LSC was a little different. My starter bolts were 10mm. Getting them out required a good number of long extensions including a 3/8ths swivel.

The bottom bolt I removed the slow way with a 10mm open ended wrench. It was corroded a bit so I got out the spray lube on the other two at this point.

Next one up I got with a stubby socket on the bolt and a long extension over the cross member (20 inches maybe?). After putting a skinny pipe on my JH Williams ratchet to break it loose I got out the 3/8 swivel and another 8in extension to remove it at any speed.

The top one is in a comically tight spot. Nothing from the front seemed able to get to it. Without removing the tire I was able to slide in an extension though the passenger wheel well hole over the sway bar, attach the 3/8 swivel to the front of it from underneath with the 10mm socket on front of that. I got in a pretty neat position with one hand holding the assembly on the bolt and the other on the ratchet and mercifully it broke loose instead of stripped.

My new Remmy starter came with instructions which said the slide on connector for the solenoid was determined to be defective and to replace it with a section wire which could be bolted on. Guess the starter I removed was aftermarket because it already had this. Still had the protective cap in place over the solenoid connections thankfully as a new one was not provided.

After replugging the wires I installed the starter bottom bolt first to 90% tight then top bolt then middle.

Before doing this at home get some good jack stands and go buy a nifty set of extensions fellas!

 

[chris2523]

on my gen 1, i remember the first two bolts being easy, and the last one being stupid. so i left the top one out.

 

[Science Abuse]

How long has your two-bolted starter been working for you? Saying fkit is an attractive option. lol

I'm kind of wondering if studs would be better?

If, while the starter was out, I red-loctited some studs and threaded them in, maybe backing them with a nut. Seems easier to get a nut to stick (magnet) to the socket, so I can fish it into its blind home.

 

[chris2523]

bet you can't get the starter in the car with studs. its a tight fit as is. you won't have the wiggle room to get it slipped over the studs.
the 2 bolt arrangement worked fine. many fords only use 2 bolts anyway.