Replacing Rotors & Pads on Lincoln LS 2002

[LincolnLS_2013]

I'm going to try and replace the rotors & pads myself. Wondering if I can get someone who has done it before to look over and make sure I'm covering all the bases.

[1] Parts: front & rear rotors & pads

[2] Tools: brake pad spreader tool (is this the right tool to use to push the piston back in the caliper?)

[3] Lug nuts need to be torqued to 100 ft-lb, right?

[4] Lubricant/grease: which should I get, and does it need to be applied anywhere beyond the "caliper slide pins"?

[5] Any suggestions on how to get off stripped lug nuts? Still wearing the OEM ones, there's a couple pretty badly stripped. I got new lug nuts to replace all the olds ones, so really just need to get those old suckers off.

[6] Is this a good time to replace the brake fluid (ie. when I'm taking the rotors and pads out)? I'm at 93,000 km, so I think it's about time. Is brake fluid change something I can do, or do I need special tools so that air bubbles don't get into the system? Haven't looked into this yet, might research some more, and do it too.

 

[LS2001]

I'm going to try and replace the rotors & pads myself. Wondering if I can get someone who has done it before to look over and make sure I'm covering all the bases.

[1] Parts: front & rear rotors & pads

i would buy these, powerstop is a reputable name.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1363632,parttype,13824
(you can upgrade to the drilled/slotted rotors for more stopping power.

you can use discount code 1513556512297280 for a 5% discount.

[2] Tools: brake pad spreader tool (is this the right tool to use to push the piston back in the caliper?)

any ol' "C" clamp and a piece of wood will do this for you as well.

[3] Lug nuts need to be torqued to 100 ft-lb, right?
Correct

[4] Lubricant/grease: which should I get, and does it need to be applied anywhere beyond the "caliper slide pins"?

the slide pins would be the only spot...i hardly ever use grease.

[5] Any suggestions on how to get off stripped lug nuts? Still wearing the OEM ones, there's a couple pretty badly stripped. I got new lug nuts to replace all the olds ones, so really just need to get those old suckers off.

if the lugs are stripped, how are the studs? (it should be stripped as well, this will need to be replaced.)

[6] Is this a good time to replace the brake fluid (ie. when I'm taking the rotors and pads out)? I'm at 93,000 km, so I think it's about time. Is brake fluid change something I can do, or do I need special tools so that air bubbles don't get into the system? Haven't looked into this yet, might research some more, and do it too.

you only have to bleed your brakes if you remove your caliper. if you remove the caliper, i recommend switching to stainless steel lines..your brake pedal will thank you later.

if your dead set on flushing your brake fluid, i recommend these steps.

1. Remove the old, dirty fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Use a cheap turkey baster for this.
2. Use a lint-free cloth to wipe out the reservoir (Do this only if you can get in there).
3. Pour new brake fluid into the reservoir just until it reaches the “Full” line, replace the cap on the reservoir.
As you bleed the brakes, the new fluid pushes the old fluid out of the system. Continue to bleed the brakes until you see clean, clear fluid exiting the bleeder screw (DON'T FORGET TO KEEP MASTER CYLINDER TOPPED OFF AT ALL TIMES).

 

[LincolnLS_2013]

if your dead set on flushing your brake fluid, i recommend these steps.

1. Remove the old, dirty fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Use a cheap turkey baster for this.
2. Use a lint-free cloth to wipe out the reservoir (Do this only if you can get in there).
3. Pour new brake fluid into the reservoir just until it reaches the “Full” line, replace the cap on the reservoir.
As you bleed the brakes, the new fluid pushes the old fluid out of the system. Continue to bleed the brakes until you see clean, clear fluid exiting the bleeder screw (DON'T FORGET TO KEEP MASTER CYLINDER TOPPED OFF AT ALL TIMES).
[/COLOR]

Thanks for the great info.

[1] I knew I could probably use C-Clamp, just didn't think about using a piece of wood; that would definitely work.

[2] Took a look at some brake bleeding videos, looks pretty simple, I'll go ahead and do that myself too then. Will make sure to keep filling the master cylinder with new fluid.

[3] For the "slide pin", do you know what is the name of the "grease" I need to pick up?

[4] Not sure about the studs, haven't taken a look. Dude that replaced the tires last time only mentioned the lug nuts, so I bought a full set of lug nuts. I didn't even know there could be problem with the studs, I didn't even know you could replace the studs. Will take a look, but hopefully I can just use what's there.

[5] "Stainless steel lines" - sounds expensive and complicated. I'm just trying to pass a safety test here, and I'm broke sooo, for as little as possible. But that would be to replace the plastic brake tubes, right? What's it like with stainless steel lines, brake pedal has better response?

[6] Does anyone know what replacement brake fluid I need to use for 2002 LS?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[LS2001]

Thanks for the great info.

[1] I knew I could probably use C-Clamp, just didn't think about using a piece of wood; that would definitely work.

[2] Took a look at some brake bleeding videos, looks pretty simple, I'll go ahead and do that myself too then. Will make sure to keep filling the master cylinder with new fluid.

make sure you empty the master cylinder first, otherwise you will be mixing the old and new. (don't go to far, just empty the reservoir)

[3] For the "slide pin", do you know what is the name of the "grease" I need to pick up?

Dielectric silicone grease is what ford recommends.

[4] Not sure about the studs, haven't taken a look. Dude that replaced the tires last time only mentioned the lug nuts, so I bought a full set of lug nuts. I didn't even know there could be problem with the studs, I didn't even know you could replace the studs. Will take a look, but hopefully I can just use what's there.

if a lug is stripped, the threads on the stud will be jacked up as well.

[5] "Stainless steel lines" - sounds expensive and complicated. I'm just trying to pass a safety test here, and I'm broke sooo, for as little as possible. But that would be to replace the plastic brake tubes, right? What's it like with stainless steel lines, brake pedal has better response?

Stock brake lines are rubber, which expands a bit under the hydraulic pressure. Stainless steel does not give under pressure, which means a much firmer pedal.

Changing the lines is a fairly simple job, but if your low on cash i wouldn't do it...SS lines can be a bit pricey.

[6] Does anyone know what replacement brake fluid I need to use for 2002 LS?

Standard DOT3 brake fluid should be just fine.

Thanks for all the help.

let us know if you need help, or have any more questions!

 

[LS2001]

also, keep in mind that if you only change the pad/rotors, you do not need to bleed the lines.
only if you disconnect the lines from the caliper is it a requirement.

 

[LincolnLS_2013]

also, keep in mind that if you only change the pad/rotors, you do not need to bleed the lines.
only if you disconnect the lines from the caliper is it a requirement.

Yeah, but the fluid is probably old by now, not sure if previous owner ever replaced it. If it gets too old, the temperature effects it a lot more. So I'll replace it quickly since the wheels will already be off, and I'll have access to that. Old brake fluid is a dark color, new brake fluid is clear because it hasn't been affected by the elements still. And if I change it now, will be good for another 80,000 km or so. Some mechanics recommend even changing it every 2 years.

Just wondering, how/where can I dispose of the old brake fluid?

 

[HDDave]

[2] Tools: brake pad spreader tool (is this the right tool to use to push the piston back in the caliper?)

You guys do know that the front caliper pistons slide back in, but the rear ones "screw" back in, right? Harbor freight has a cheap set of the tools needed to screw the pistons back into the calipers. Or if you're in a bind, I've used needle nose pliers to turn the piston, but lots of slipping and swearing are usually involved....

 

[joegr]

...Just wondering, how/where can I dispose of the old brake fluid?

Have you asked any of your local auto stores?
Our local government has a Hazardous Waste Collection site that is free to use. It's only open a few days every month.

 

[Telco]

Not sure if this is the same on Ford as it is for Chevy, but on Chevy ABS-equipped vehicles it's recommended that when you use the C clamp to recompress the caliper piston that you open the bleed screw to let the old fluid out that way. If you just squeeze it back like on pre-ABS systems you wind up pushing any debris in the system back through the ABS valving which can damage the ABS unit. As these ABS units can cost 1000+ bucks (if you can even find one for the LS anymore) I wouldn't take a chance on a backflush and would just crack the bleeder open before compressing the caliper piston.

 

[joegr]

I always open the bleeders to push the calipers back in. I hadn't really thought about the ABS valves, but I do know of master cylinders being damaged when rust/dirt/gunk was pushed back in there to damage the seals. If you are changing the pads, then it is time to at least partially change the brake fluid anyway.

 

[atxsaint]

I always open the bleeders to push the calipers back in. I hadn't really thought about the ABS valves, but I do know of master cylinders being damaged when rust/dirt/gunk was pushed back in there to damage the seals. If you are changing the pads, then it is time to at least partially change the brake fluid anyway.

I have everything off to replace my rotors and what happens is that the rotors won't come off, is there something I'm missing, I took everything I need to take them off and for some reason they won't budge please help . is there a screw I'm missing or something, caliper is off and both nuts which hold the rotor in place are off too

 

[joegr]

I have everything off to replace my rotors and what happens is that the rotors won't come off, is there something I'm missing, I took everything I need to take them off and for some reason they won't budge please help . is there a screw I'm missing or something, caliper is off and both nuts which hold the rotor in place are off too

Does "everything I need to take them off" include the tooth washers put on at the factory to hold the rotors in place during assembly?

 

[atxsaint]

yes took thoughs off to, but nothing.

 

[atxsaint]

Does "everything I need to take them off" include the tooth washers put on at the factory to hold the rotors in place during assembly?

yes and is there a diagram or pictures that can show me how to do it just in case I'm missing something.

 

[purevilpleasure]

Take a pic and post it up....I'm guessing it's rusted on?

Smack it with a hammer if you have taken off the caliper and the 2 lil lock nuts.

 

[atxsaint]

Take a pic and post it up....I'm guessing it's rusted on?

Smack it with a hammer if you have taken off the caliper and the 2 lil lock nuts.

okay and here is a pic of what im working with ill take more.

 

[1LoudLS]

when i did my brakes, the fronts were stuck on there something fierce!

mine were just rusted on there, to get them off, i had to hit the old rotor a lot harder than i was comfortable with. i was literally one swing away from giving up and calling in some help, but i figured i would give it one last good whack and it popped off. I actually was surprised i didn't break something else...

 

[LincolnLS_2013]

I got my pads/rotors changed about two weeks ago. Bled the brake fluid too, and put in new fluid.

I ended up finding a mobile mechanic on craigslist and he only charged $25/hr. Got him to help me out because I thought I might have trouble doing it the first time myself, so I figured it would be easier to get someone to help me. I'm really glad I did, because I would have been stranded at a couple points. Definitely I wouldn't have all the tools needed. Took us 3.5 hours for the 4 rotors, pads, and brake fluid.

You guys do know that the front caliper pistons slide back in, but the rear ones "screw" back in, right? Harbor freight has a cheap set of the tools needed to screw the pistons back into the calipers. Or if you're in a bind, I've used needle nose pliers to turn the piston, but lots of slipping and swearing are usually involved....

Exactly THIS! You need a special tool for the back pistons, you can't just use a C-clamp, because you have to twist-and-push simultaneously! If I had done the job myself, I would have been stranded, not knowing why I couldn't push the rear pistons in. But because I got a mechanic to help me, he had the tool right there.

Another problem was that the front caliper assembly had a bolt hidden from behind a... not sure how to name it, the column where everything is mounted... and to get to this bolt, the mechanic had to use a really long extender on the ratchet. Again, if I did it myself, I wouldn't have the right tools, and wouldn't be able to reach it.

Take a pic and post it up....I'm guessing it's rusted on?

Smack it with a hammer if you have taken off the caliper and the 2 lil lock nuts.

We had to do that with the rotors too. I brought some WD40, so we sprayed it on the rotor around the lugs... and then the mechanic took a rubber mallet to it, until the rotor finally released (and at the same time it a pile of rust/dust would fall from behind the rotor).

when i did my brakes, the fronts were stuck on there something fierce!

mine were just rusted on there, to get them off, i had to hit the old rotor a lot harder than i was comfortable with. i was literally one swing away from giving up and calling in some help, but i figured i would give it one last good whack and it popped off. I actually was surprised i didn't break something else...

Definitely might require a few good loud swings before it will let go.

 

[Lincoln_LS_2003]

I want to thank ALL of you who contributed to this thread. Not only were the answers helpful, but the responses to those answers had plenty of useful info, too. I found this thread in a search for info on replacing the rear break pads on our 2003 LS -- and got more useful information here than EVERYwhere else put together. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

As it turns out, I won't need to put it to use for awhile; the rear pads still have plenty of life in them. I knew I had to replace the front ones and just wanted to be prepared in case I had to do them all. Thanks to HDDave, I now own a new set of brake tools (even got them on sale) from Harbor Freight and will be prepared when I need them. Prepared is good.

 

[Telco]

I know it's too late now, but I'll put this in for future reference. When you do pads and rotors this is also a good time to change the front wheel hubs to get new bearings in. When the rotor is off, you are only 3 bolts and 1 wire away from having the hub assembly out. This is one of the things I do like about the LS, how easy it is to replace the front hubs. Well, aside fro having to remove the inner wheel well liner to unplug the ABS wire, that is. That connector should have been moved up 3 inches, and had a positive lock on the connector.

Putting a little anti-sieze on the hub to rotor interface is also not a bad idea, it'll help the rotor come off easier next time. I like using copper based anti-sieze.

 

[cammerfe]

Whanga-danga on the outer front of the rotor after soaking with penetrating fluid. Make it ring.

KS