replacing rear brake pads... whats involved?

AbrahamLincoln

AbrahamLincoln

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how hard is it to replace rear pads, my one rear brake is making some funky sound, im assuming the pads gone cuz i hear like a gurrr when i brake in the back. probably from doing brake stands lol damn peg leg auto. i got a price of 40 dollars for rear pads.
 
You need a special tool for turning the pistons in the rear calipers, most auto parts stores sell them but there junk, you need to use a good one from Mac, or snap on. Before I bought a Mac one I just took my rear calipers to a local shop and gave the mechanic 5 bucks to do it.
 
I just cranked my caliper pistons with a large pair of Channel-lock pliers-worked fine. Don't waste your money on the "Block" tool they sell at the cheapo auto parts houses-they are junk and won't work on our pistons.
 
Well you can "rent" a tool too. Autozone and Advance have them. Pay a deposit and use em, return to get deposit back.

And if you do hear that sound, do not back up! Do not park so you have to back up! Trust me! :)
 
Napa sells a quality tool; might run ya $10-$15, well worth it
 
it's not too hard, they just 'screw' in-a tool made for it would help, but if you have a selection of tools, you'll find something in the box that'll work, I used a pair of long needle-nose plyers opened up, tips wedged in the bores-once you get it going, it goes pretty easily.
 
Harbor freight tools sells a complete disc brake service kit for around $30-$40 bucks.
 
How hard is it to replace the rear rotors?
 
turborich said:
Harbor freight tools sells a complete disc brake service kit for around $30-$40 bucks.
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Harbor freight has the tool for it but i think it is cheaper then that,it also works on the fronts just to push the pistons back,you can use vise grips to turn the rears,just be careful.make sure your slides are not frozen into place i just did mine for fun 3 months ago and the slide was rusted in place but with a little heat and pb blaster i finally got it out,make sure you boot covers the slides so water and dirt rust yours in to place.remember to turn the pistons clockwise
 
as someone mentioned before about the slides... be sure to pick up brake grease. It's essential to lube up the slides to prevent them from seizing together. I did a brake job on a 99 Chevy 2500 once that had original brakes, 110k miles. Owner complained the truck didn't stop very well and made noise when braking. Upon pulling the wheels off and removing the calipers, I was surprised to see his pads for the most part still half left. His problem was he'd never had his brakes serviced. Two calipers seized up to the point that I had to cut off the slider bolts, hit the calipers with the torch and drive out the old slider bolts with a brass drift. Then I had to run a drill down the bores to clear out the rust. All new brake hardware (to include slider bolts) and brake rubber all the way around. Sad thing is, had he had his brakes serviced so those sliders would be re-greased, he'd have had another 40k on his brakes. Also with the calipers seizing in position it cause only one pad to make contact instead of two; totally destroyed his rotors on all four corners.

The lesson: maintain your brakes and do the work correctly; it'll save you $1200 in brake repairs!
 
so rear breaks are just as easy as the front?
 
you have to screw the piston in on the rear instead of press it in. Otherwise, same basic deal.
 
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