Replacing Compressor Manifold Hose Assembly

[stumpie]

2003 V8

I'm going to be getting my A/C Hose Assembly replaced in the next few weeks and had a question. Rockauto suggests replacing the receiver/drier as well. Is that a necessary "suggestion"? And is it in line with the A/C Hose Assy? i.e. it's not like on the other side of the vehicle or anything, is it?

TIA

 

[joegr]

Which AC hose assembly (there are two of them), and why?

Yes, you should always replace the receiver/dryer when you open the system unless it is practically brand new.

The receiver/dryer is at the right side of the radiator at the top. You can't miss it. It's easy to change.

 

[stumpie]

Ok. The Hose Assembly with the Low Side Service port is covered in UV dye that I had the shop impregnate into the system last summer with a full refill of R-134. The leak appears to be where the braided section of the hose meets a metal part of the hose. Upstream from this point the metal and other hose parts look clean. The system currently has 0.2lbs of freon in it.

Additionally, the compressor is not clicking on. I get warm/room-temp air from the vents, but I do not hear the compressor click on under the hood, which I am hoping is just a relay?

BTW, the A/C system kept me cool through last summer after the refill, but is no good now.

 

[joegr]

That one's easy to change compared to the other one.

If there's only .2 lb of R-134 in there (not sure how you know the weight), then there's not enough pressure for the compressor to run. If it did, it would destroy itself. That's why there's a pressure switch (for too high or too low pressure).

It's common for the compressors to leak. You might want to change that while you are at it.

 

[stumpie]

I went in to the shop to have them refill it again, or first check the freon level on it because it wasn't cooling. He had it hooked up to a machine about the size of a small refrigerator then told me it measured at 0.2 pounds and that there was no point in putting any freon in it, as it would just leak again. With a flashlight we could see the dirty sticky area of the hose. Although I have not laid my eyes on the compressor to validate that it was completely clean or that there was no leaks in the immediate area, I could see that the metal section of the hose assembly before the hose (towards the compressor) appeared clean.

Here is a picture of where I see the contamination:

 

[stumpie]

I think I have a few weeks of decent temps left before this is a real necessity. Austin summer is usually pretty bad between April and October. I might approach this with a more diagnostic view before plopping the $380 on compressor/clutch in addition to the $200 for hose and drier.. What's the best way to get a good look at the compresssor? Through the wheel well? Or from underneath the engine?

 

[joegr]

I think I have a few weeks of decent temps left before this is a real necessity. Austin summer is usually pretty bad between April and October. I might approach this with a more diagnostic view before plopping the $380 on compressor/clutch in addition to the $200 for hose and drier.. What's the best way to get a good look at the compresssor? Through the wheel well? Or from underneath the engine?

Underneath the engine. You have to take the left side splash cover off. I don't know if looking at it will really help. If it is leaking, there will be yellow/green oil all on the bottom of it. It can also make the engine oil pan look like it is leaking. My point with my prior comment wasn't that the compressor might be leaking now, it was that it probably will be leaking later. Personally, I would wait for it to start leaking, but then I have the vacuum pump and tools such that I wouldn't be paying for some one to evacuate and refill it again. I've had to replace both of my compressors, just before 100K miles in each case.

 

[stumpie]

The engine oil pan looks like it is leaking. It is sprayed with sticky yellow/brown oil. Car has 120K on it and has no oil leaks. might as well replace the damn compressor.. joe how does everything you say end up being true?

Found a reman. compressor with 12 month warranty for $140

Have you ever had to replace the compressor manifold hose assy?

 

[joegr]

...
Have you ever had to replace the compressor manifold hose assy?

I haven't, but others have.

 

[stumpie]

My shop guy Tim has a loyal customer. I had gone to him with this hose and a receiver drier. Didnt bring a compressor because he said he could match an eBAY price with a shop part. Ok I'm in and we get started. He helps me locate my alternator and starter lugs, as ill need those for another project shortly. Now were looking at the hose and its covered in freon oil but the compressor is fine. Like shiny metal fine. Car had 0.2# freon left in the lines, didn't charge me to vac it out. Swapped the hose and drier and Sold me 1.7#s freon. Vac test ok. Out the door for 1.25 hours labor and the cost of freon and parts. On my receipt I found a code for a free car wash and a coupon for a free barbecue sandwich. I redeemed both with my cold ass A/C blasting me in my face. So happy.

You know something should be said about honest mechanics who are genuinely about helping and not just about getting paid well. Thanks, Tim at Express Oil Change, Cedar Park, Tx.

 

[joegr]

For the record...

Freon is the Dupont brand name for R-12 refrigerant. Cars haven't used that since the mid 90s.

Suva is the Dupont brand name for R-134a refrigerant, which is what the LS and just about all other cars use (soon to change to something else). Suva never got the traction that "Freon" did, so everybody just says R-134a (when they correctly refer to it).

While we're at it, the LS uses COPs, not coil packs.

COP = single coil on single spark plug.
Coil pack = two or three coils in an assembly that fires four to six spark plugs.

 

[LS4me]

For the record...
Coil pack = two or three coils in an assembly that fires four to six spark plugs.

I've heard some knucklehead on one of those car repair/build shows refer to the coil assembly on a Chevy engine (a motor is an electric drive device) referred to as a "coil pack". As does this site. GEEEEESH!!!! Words have meanings!!!

And the LS uses coil-over shocks; NOT struts! I don't care what the dealers call them! They are wrong!

 

[joegr]

I'm with you, but I did give up on the motor thing a couple of years ago.