replacing brake pads..

I am going to be replacing my brake pads here in about two weeks. Any suggestions on type of pad to get?

thanks

LLOYD
 
01lssport said:
What are you looking? upgrade... less dust?

less dust and no squeek. I like the ones on the lskoncepts site. Has anyone tried either one of those?
 
I installed Hawk HPS and im saying that is a big no no.I made this mistake.... they are very dusty and squeeky is to small comparing the noise that those S$%T make
 
I had Porterfield R4-S pads on my '04. They were almsot dust-free, and they had excellent bite when warm. They could be a bit disconcerting when cold, but I don't think they were much worse than stock cold, and they were much better than stock when it came to dust and warm stopping.

Based on the recommendations I've gotten, I'm probably going to try EBC Greens on my '06.
 
i went to autozone and got some DURALAST pads for 24.99 or somethin in that price range. they squeek and squeal and don't even brake better than my old wore out pads. dust is non stop for me. i just got them cuz my old pads were ruining the rotors. they are fine if you just need temporary pads without spending money
 
In desperation I bought some front pads from Pepboys. I had ordered some high end pads from JC Whitney($150?), but their supplier was very late and I was down to metal after waiting 6 weeks so had to get something fast.

The Pep Boys brakes were the Prostop brand($40?), they are ceramic, meeting Ford spec and supposedly their middle grade pads. The "best" were not available for my car. I am not happy with them. They squeal a LOT and they make a weird creaky/groan sound on a slow hard stop. They are very clean tho.

Part of it may be my fault since I did not turn the rotors when I did the work. The rotors were relatively smooth, ie nothing felt by fingernail. Usually I can get away with not turning rotors if they are smooth.

I have mistakenly bought the cheap pads for various cars and have rarely been happy. Usually dust or squeal issues.

So I always try to buy the "best" pads from the part shop. I haven't bought the "performance" types since all my driving is street and I am looking for longlife and good stopping under normal conditions. Performance pads sometimes don't work until they are hot is my experience and from reading.

I like Raybestos brand best so far.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson
 
I am going to replace my front pads soon (probably with the EBC greens) and was told by the dealer that the rotors would have to be replaced as well. He said they were too thin to be turned. I can feel a small "lip" around the edge of the rotor but it is very slight. I was wondering why the rotors need to be turned anyway. I have some friends around here that say they never turn their rotors and have never had trouble with squeek or stopping power. So I am considering just replacing the pads with the greens and calling it a day. Does anyone have any recommendations/suggestions on determining weather or not to replace the rotors, have them turned, or leave them alone??

Dealers are out to get my money (since they have done pleanty of warranty work for free for me) and there are pleanty of hillbillies around here and I know some of their automotive knowledge is 'funny' so I'm not sure what to think. Replace the rotors, turn the rotors, or leave the rotors what should I do?

FYI
04 LS6 with 49,000 mi
 
On my 02 LS Sport with V8, I just installed a set of Akebono Euros (front and rear with new rotors). I am very pleased, the car stops great and no dust!
 
n8bachelor said:
Dealers are out to get my money (since they have done pleanty of warranty work for free for me)
Unless the warranty you had was underwritten by the dealership (highly unlikely), they didn't do any work for free. If it was the factory warranty, Lincoln paid them for their work.

As for turning rotors, I've heard lots of people say that you have to have the rotors turned when you get new pads, but the only times I've had problems with warped rotors were on rotors that were turned. In the last 13 years and umpteen hundreds of thousands of miles of driving in various automobiles, I've never turned a rotor, and I've never had a problem with them. I've just put the pads on and go, and things have been just fine.
 
i would just replace rotors if you get a vibration because it will just come back after some good hard stops going some good speeds . and if you don't have a vibration just put pads on it that is if they ant under sized when you meager them with a brake gage micrometer
 
Turning rotors also gets the slight grooves out of the rotor. I would say turning rotors is not necessary if the rotors are parallel (same thickness throughout) and the runout is within spec (not warped) and there are no significant grooves.
 
SoonerLS said:
As for turning rotors, I've heard lots of people say that you have to have the rotors turned when you get new pads, but the only times I've had problems with warped rotors were on rotors that were turned.
This is a good point because if you don't clean the rotor up properly and mount it right, you can actually make the runout in the rotor worse.
 
Our schools Auto Mechanics shop has an "on car" brake lathe that works well. The rotor is turned while mounted on your car, eliminating the variances you get when removing and remounting the rotor on a lathe.

If decide to get yours turned, a place with an on car lathe is something to think about.
 

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